Attach tip to ramrod.

Discussion in 'General Muzzleloading' started by mahd776, Dec 1, 2019.

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  1. Dec 1, 2019 #1

    mahd776

    mahd776

    mahd776

    36 Cal.

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    Purchased a 32 caliber TC Cherokee a week or so ago. The ramrod was missing the threaded tip. Non threaded tip is there and secured with a brass pin. No sign the missing tip was ever pinned which is probably why its not there. Ordered a replacement tip from TOTW which came today. Its a pretty loose fit so am going to have to use a filler of some sort. Thinking JB weld or acra glass. Once cured will drill and pin in place. Any other suggestions s will be considered. Thanks!
     
  2. Dec 1, 2019 #2

    tenngun

    tenngun

    tenngun

    Cannon

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    Yes, get new rod and fit tip to it. Don’t try any filler. But pin when done.
     
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  3. Dec 1, 2019 #3

    30coupe

    30coupe

    30coupe

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    JB Weld would be a bear to get out if you ever break the rod and want to try to save the tip. I don't see a problem with using epoxy though. If you do have to take the tip off, heat it up a bit with a propane torch and the epoxy will soften up. I would order a new rod though. The rod that came with my Hawken had a pin knot and it snapped off in my hand. I was not impressed with the quality, needless to say.
     
  4. Dec 1, 2019 #4

    mullet

    mullet

    mullet

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    You can also freeze epoxy and it will crumble to pieces.
     
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  5. Dec 1, 2019 #5

    Prairieofthedog

    Prairieofthedog

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    JB or epoxy it,and pin it.Don't put it on loose and pin it.Take care of your TC ramrod,the originals are pricey.
     
  6. Dec 3, 2019 #6

    Pete G

    Pete G

    Pete G

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    JB Weld IS epoxy o_O
     
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  7. Dec 4, 2019 #7

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

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    I use locktight epoxy and then cross pin.
     
  8. Dec 4, 2019 #8

    30coupe

    30coupe

    30coupe

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    Yup, but it's steel impregnated, so it's much harder to undo than regular epoxy. :doh:
     
  9. Dec 4, 2019 #9

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

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    You would just unpin and then place the tip on a hot iron for a little while, once you smell burned rubber, it will slide off.

    You just want to make sure the epoxy you’re using is not fireproof.
     
  10. Dec 4, 2019 #10

    30coupe

    30coupe

    30coupe

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    Regular epoxy will let go at about 200 degrees F. JB weld needs 600. Not impossible but more difficult as I said before. I wouldn't use it for this application because the chances of having to undo the tip on a wooden ramrod at some point are pretty high. No use making it any more difficult than necessary. Regular epoxy will work just fine.
     
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  11. Dec 4, 2019 #11

    EC121

    EC121

    EC121

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    Before epoxying I put a dab of grease on the end and threads of a jag and screw it into the the ramrod tip. Keeps the threads clean.
     
    Pete G likes this.
  12. Dec 4, 2019 #12

    gary peacemaker

    gary peacemaker

    gary peacemaker

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    have you checked the bore for the old end 32 are hard to see in.check the ram rod to find how far it goes in.just in case
     
  13. Dec 4, 2019 #13

    Woodnbow

    Woodnbow

    Woodnbow

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    I don’t use epoxy, I do fit the taper closely using inletting black and when I’m happy with the fit I clean everything with alcohol and use Bohning ferr-l-tite hot melt glue. Heat the tip and the glue stick, rub a bit of it on the end of the ramrod and screw the tip in place. It’s strong, water and solvent proof yet easily heat reversed.
     
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  14. Dec 5, 2019 at 12:24 AM #14

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

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    I’ve made many ramrods over the years. Only broke one which was a ramin wood rod, it broke because the rod was finished with linseed and didn’t hold up well to fouling, use and cleaning; the tips I just removed by heating up the tip and twisting off, and removing the pin. Since then I’ve replaced older chewed up rods and removed the tips very easily.

    Currently I use composite rods when in the field, which are stronger and better, and I leave the nicer wooden rods at home.
     
  15. Dec 10, 2019 at 10:06 PM #15

    Col. Batguano

    Col. Batguano

    Col. Batguano

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    When you drill the hole for the pin, make sure to chamfer / countersink both sides. Cut your pin fairly close to length, and peen it to fill up the chamfer.

    Then file and finish it flush. I would suggest a brass or copper pin (made from solid electrical wire) because they peen more easily than steel.
     
  16. Dec 10, 2019 at 10:38 PM #16

    Rich

    Rich

    Rich

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    This works well. It is the same method used when I rebuild my old hickory shaft clubs.
     
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  17. Dec 11, 2019 at 11:36 AM #17

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

    FlinterNick

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    I learned it at the Dixon's gunmakers fair in Kempton PA.
     

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