Are CCI percussion caps really non corrosive?

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stiles1410

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I am using new CCI 11 caps and they do claim to be non corrosive, are they really? I know some powders claim to be when actually they aren’t....

Blackpowder season opened here today and my plan is to snap a few caps on a clean barrel and then load normally with a mink oil patch and round ball. our season is 2 weeks so my rifle may be loaded until then or until I actually take a shot at something. I don’t want to have to unload and clean every day I hunt unless I get rained on. If I take a shot I will of course break down and clean my rifle properly. But if I only fire caps to and no powder then I shouldn’t have to clean or worry about my rifle rusting correct?
 
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I've never seen any corrosion in just the uses you describe. Been doing it close to 20 years with some of the guns, and never an issue. I'm betting you're perfectly safe.
 

SDSmlf

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Unless I have just cleaned and oiled a cap barrel I don’t bother with the snap a few caps tradition. Stopped doing that years ago. If I have any concerns with oil or moisture in the barrel or flash channel before loading I flush everything out with isopropyl alcohol (91%), letting the gun sit it a warm environment for as long as possible before loading.

In hunting camp is one of the few places or times I clean with HOT water. Once the barrel is hot a quick alcohol flush and it is dry and ready to go in minutes. Have never had any flash rust problems, but even if I did, I would not worry about it while hunting. Plus the bore is somewhat protected with patch lube after loading.
 
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Which powder claims to be non-corrosive?

All black powder and black powder substitutes are corrosive.

CCI caps are non-corrosive.

Firing a cap or two through a clean gun can result in some "rust or corrosion" but it is not because of the caps themselves. it is due to them removing protective oil. the gun is then subject to normal rust from air and moisture.
 
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I did exactly as you describe for 10 days of elk hunting in Colorado a couple weeks ago. Shot to unload on the last day with no issues vis-a-vis corrosion or firing.
 
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X2 on that. BTW, I have some 40 year old CVA caps that are corrosive and I still use them occasionally, but the firearm gets cleaned asap after a range session when I use them. I don't use them for hunting.
 

stiles1410

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Colorado Clyde said:
Which powder claims to be non-corrosive?

All black powder and black powder substitutes are corrosive.

CCI caps are non-corrosive.

Firing a cap or two through a clean gun can result in some "rust or corrosion" but it is not because of the caps themselves. it is due to them removing protective oil. the gun is then subject to normal rust from air and moisture.

Blackhorn 209 claims to be non corrosive

But I will stick with GOEX
 
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Blackhorn 209 was specifically designed for modern in-line muzzleloaders with sealed ignition systems using standard 209 shotshell primers. Check with your rifle’s manufacturer for compatibility.

You should also read the SDS sheet.
http://www.blackhorn209.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/msds_btn1.png

From their question and answer sheet.

2. Will Blackhorn work with a #11 percussion or musket cap primer?

NO. #11 percussion caps, or musket caps do not have sufficient strength to ignite Blackhorn 209.

12. How do I clean my barrel?

Use ONLY oil-based solvents. DO NOT use black powder cleaners that are water-based. We recommend Blackhorn 209 Solvent by Montana X-Treme.

14. Can I use Blackhorn 209 in a cap & ball revolver?

NO. #11 percussion caps, or musket caps do not have sufficient strength to ignite Blackhorn 209.



15. Can I use Blackhorn 209 in my muzzle loading shotgun?

This is not recommended.
 
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Colorado Clyde said:
12. How do I clean my barrel?

Use ONLY oil-based solvents. DO NOT use black powder cleaners that are water-based. We recommend Blackhorn 209 Solvent by Montana X-Treme.

OT, but this stuff stinks like nothing I've experienced. My buddy uses this and he stores it in 2 zip lock bags. He left his stuff in my vehicle during our 9-day hunt and it still smells like that stuff in there 2+ weeks later.
 
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To answer the original question:
What does it matter if the caps are or are not corrosive? Powder blowback from the main charge comes back up through the nipple. Black powder and substitutes are corrosive.
CLEAN YOUR GUN properly as soon as possible after every use, that includes removing the nipple and cleaning it as well as the barrel and lock parts, inside and out....
:idunno:
 
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Bear in mind that the black powder is not corrosive, but the fouling is.

So, fire your caps, run a patch dampened with rubbing alcohol through the bore, load the gun normally, and enjoy your hunting season.

Follow good safety storage procedures while you are off your hunting site.
 
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The few times I have had a failure to fire with percussion caps is when I have "snapped" some on an empty rifle. A tiny bit of cap fouling got into the nipple channel. When I did not get a full discharge, a nipple pick solved the problem and the next cap made it go boom. I recommend swabbing with alcohol and letting it dry and then loading and capping.
 
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2FG said:
my plan is to snap a few caps on a clean barrel and then load normally with a mink oil patch and round ball.
Grenadier1758 said:
Bear in mind that the black powder is not corrosive, but the fouling is.
:bow: That's the key, and it's the same with caps,, it's not so much "corrosive" but hygroscopic,, the fouling can and will suck up available moisture.
My "seasonal hunting" set up is to clean and dry the barrel and nipple with denatured alcohol,, I'll hold the nipple up to a light source to be sure it's clean and clear. Then load the rifle,, I'll then remove the nipple again to visually verify powder in the fire channel (if I can't see any I'll trickle a tiny bit) then reinstall the nipple.
No need to "snap a cap" because I now know everything is clean, dry, clear and the main charge is ready for the caps discharge.
 
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necchi said:
2FG said:
my plan is to snap a few caps on a clean barrel and then load normally with a mink oil patch and round ball.
Grenadier1758 said:
Bear in mind that the black powder is not corrosive, but the fouling is.
:bow: That's the key, and it's the same with caps,, it's not so much "corrosive" but hygroscopic,, the fouling can and will suck up available moisture.
My "seasonal hunting" set up is to clean and dry the barrel and nipple with denatured alcohol,, I'll hold the nipple up to a light source to be sure it's clean and clear. Then load the rifle,, I'll then remove the nipple again to visually verify powder in the fire channel (if I can't see any I'll trickle a tiny bit) then reinstall the nipple.
No need to "snap a cap" because I now know everything is clean, dry, clear and the main charge is ready for the caps discharge.
I just use a can of air and the tube to blow some air down the nipple. I can hear it, so I know I am good for the critical first shot.
 

Scota4570

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Blackhorn 209 powder? The SDS lists a nitrate ester as the primary ingredient. The most common one is nitrocellulose. Smokeless powder is nitrocellulose. It is my understanding that Blackhorn 209 is a bulk smokeless powder. Maybe Mad Monk can set us straight.
 

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