Any other heretics out there that oil their barrels?

[Eutycus]

I agree, how can petroleum even matter if it is cleaned out first?

 

[oldwood]

Hot water probe in bore , until barrel metal hot , dry patches ,WD 40. Muzzle down until completely dry.

 

[Martin B.]

Warm water in bore until the patches are clean. Then dry patches until squiky dry. Then a light coat of 90 weight trany oil in- & outside barrel. No cleaning before shooting. No sludge. No issues.

 

[eggwelder]

Hot soapy water, then blast with WD40. It displaces the water. When i`m done cleaning up the cleaning stuff, i`ll hit the metal parts with brake cleen. The chlorine free stuff. That gets rid of the WD40. When thats dry, i`ll oil up with whatever oil is handiest, and i mean that. If one is next to another, but farther away from where i`m sitting, thats the one i use. Everything gets a good dousing, then a wipe down prior to re-assembly. Wip the bores with alcohol before a shooting session, especially my .22 flintlock. It is very sensitive to oil left in the bore. Haven`t shot anything in a while, but i just checked everything on a gun room clean-up. No rust anywhere. I been working on my first passion lately- antique cars. Nobody from the gubermint trying to take those away. Yet

 

[Ghost23]

I oil anything metal that I own.

 

[ETipp]

I oil the heck the bore of my ML including the flash channel. Before I load, I remove the nipple, wipe the bore, and shoot compressed air through the nipple hole out the barrel. Then I shoot a little bit of alcohol or brake cleaner through the flash channel. Run patches down the barrel until they come out oil free and dry. Snap a cap or two prior to loading and never a misfire, and no sludge that I know of. As much as I clean between shots, I don't think I'll ever have a problem.

After shooting is complete for the day, soap and water, dry, and oil the heck out of the bore again and put it to sleep.

Its to my belief that it ain't going to rust if its cleaned with soap and water, dry with air, then oil the heck out of the bore. And I have my doubts to sludge build up.

As a special note, you might be surprised at the amount of crud that comes out of the flash channel after you "think" its clean after soap and water cleaning then shoot some brake cleaner into the flash channel, and follow up with a clean patch. An air compressor and and brake cleaner helps more than one might think.

 

[Blitz]

Yup. I even use (shudder) WD-40...

When thay stuff WD40 first came out all of the wruters testers of fishing tackle were gushing over it big time mostly for the water displacing attributes and it is great for that. Other uses not so much if left on something not used for a while it leaves sa crumy gummy film. it is certainly not great or even good for many uses i.e. penetrating oil, lubrication
I nrver use it on firearms unless it is to displace a lot of moisture.
Probably the best use I ever found for it was in maintaing me dirt boke drive chain and purely as a moisutre removable tool .
After a long day of off road riding my friend and I would head to the twobit spray pressure car wash to clean the bikes sand remove all the mud load em up head for hone spray just about every thing and especially the chain very thouroghly with WD 40,. The machine would then sit un till we were able to ride at that time I always thoroughly lube the chain with molebdenumdisulfide.
Many years latrer I sold that bike and to mysurprise the chain swowed no wear that I could see no side toside flexing , most surprising. I don1t know if Yahama speced thier chains any better than othersbut compared to a HD that I had owned, aroad bike the difference in care and lube products on wear was phenominal.
The only downside was that I could only find MBD ant a gunsmith and this of course meant a higher price, but worth it.


Blitz

 

[oldwood]

Clean with warm water from fawcet , WD 40 , and turn muzzle down over night. My shop is pretty dry using a dehumidifier , so nothing rusts much. Got a lifetime of tools collected , and just like to keep things dry.

 

[Mike in FL]

So simple. When the bore is clean, oil it.

 

[Mike in FL]

Oh, and before going to range or field, ALWAYS liberally apply alcohol. Just pour some down the barrel and before it all leaks out the touch hole, run a tight patch down and watch the alcohol squirt out. Dry it if you wish with another patch, but rest assured the bore is ready for loading, free of any oil.

 

[Mad L]

I must be doing it all wrong??
I just lightly oil after cleaning (Army way), then just head to range, run one alcohol swab down followed by a dry patch, load and shoot; works every time. Works on my flintlock rifles and pistols and it works on my percussion rifles and pistols (well, I always pop a cap on the percussions).
I will have take better notes and get right, my way is just all too simple so I must be missing some fun...??

 

[Johnny Tremain]

blast with WD40. It displaces the water.

The most incorrect thing Ive ever seen on this forum.
It makes a barrier that traps water under it.
What all of you are wiping and cleaning, and not having fun.
The few of us are partying like its 1999.

When you use petroleum in your barrel, you have to UN-season your barrel to get it out. Leaving it prove to rust.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

So simple. When the bore is clean, oil it.

Yep..., and when I'm going to shoot, I put a dry patch down twice, to be sure I've not left a bunch of droplets behind.

I normally oil, then check the barrel two mornings in a row. Since I shoot on the weekends, that means Monday and Tuesday morning as I get ready for work, I check the barrel with a clean patch, looking for any telltale rust, followed by an oiled patch.

No worries.

LD

 

[OldSmoky1967]

hi i'm deerstalker, and i am a heretic!
marvel mystery oil

Love it!

 

[RMH]

I oil my barrels. Once clean I like Eezox. Stays put and provides protection without staying greasy and attracting and holding dirt and dust.

 

[springfield art]

Yup. I even use (shudder) WD-40...

WD leaves a film. All gunsmiths will tell you that most shotguns that get "stickied-up" are victims of WD. Shooting Times magazine recently went so far as to publish a page stating that WD should be no where near guns. But, whatever floats your boat! It's your stuff.

 

[The Miner '49er]

All I can say is that after reading the replies from bubba.50, stykbow, and rchas, I hope you guys can bear the weight when the entire world of muzzleloading collapses!

 

[PastorB]

I clean my guns, them apply a light coat of 3 in 1 oil around the drum/vent, then a heavily saturated cleaning patch pumped up and down the barrel several times. I leave the oil soaked patch in the breech on the jag. My barrels look factory new after decades and thousands of rounds. When I shoot, I run dry patches down the barrel to get oil out, bust off a few caps, then dump powder down and fire a blank load. Works for me. Pictured are my Pedersoli Blue Ridge, Antique 1861 Colt Special Musket (mfg. 1862), Pedersoli Rocky Mountain Hawken. Note the cleaning rods jammed in the muzzles. The gun underneath is an original antique, fully automatic assault rifle. You pull the trigger once, and it fires until empty.

 

[Rob M.]

Only when I dont want it to rust up ...

 

[Graybeard2A]

Has any of you tried paste wax? I use it on all my guns & never have had a problem! inside & out after cleaning.
just a different view!!