Anti seize grease

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deermanok

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I don't have a particular favorite. I use whatever kind of plain old grease that I have in the barn, (white lithium) is what I have right now.
If I'm burning black powder, no issues. Triple 7 does seem to grab onto the nipple threads more.
 

hanshi

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If you remove the nipple when you clean lube the threads and DO NOT tighten it down. I have a couple of antiseize greases and the nipples on my rifles are not cinched down, snug is all you need. If you don't remove the nipple that problem will be bypassed. Overtight is the enemy of a muzzleloader.
 
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@hanshi makes a point,
Maybe your over tightening. Nipples only need inch-pounds of torque.
I've been using Permatex for over a decade and have had little to no trouble.
I use just a touch to a short piece of pipe-cleaner and then roll the nipple threads across that for even distribution,
 
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Anti-seize is used to prevent the molecular bond that can occur when metal comes in contact with metal. That bond is as strong as a weld and can be really hard to break.

If you just want to tighten the nipple and not have it fall out, use Loctite 242 (its's a blue liquid). It will hold the nipple in place and you will be able to easily remove it.
 

dave951

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Mobil1 pure synthetic. It's a pink grease and you only need a tiny dot on the threads then install the nipple.

And yes, you should always remove the nipple when cleaning. The nipple is a wear item just like the tires on your car. Replace regularly and tighten only till snug.
 

SPQR70AD

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when I clean a cap lock rifle I use tubing that fits over the nipple then into a bottle with warm soapy water. using a tight patch when drawn out sucks the water out of the bottle and when pushed down fills the bottle. after going back and forth barrel and nipple area are clean. I just take the nipple out and wipe the threads down never got stuck
 
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It's definitely not all the same, but for this application it's probably all the same.

What I mean by that is, there are a lot of different types of anti-seize compounds with different properties. They're usually some type of friction modifier suspended in a grease. A few are molybdenum disulfide (moly), copper, graphite, aluminum, chalk, etc. They all have different applications regarding the base metals and the amount of torque you're applying. At work, we use Moly 503 and regularly torque things to 20,000 ft-lb.

That said, with a muzzleloader nipple all you're really doing is applying a grease-like substance to keep the fouling out of the threads. There are no exotic or very dissimilar metals involved, you're not (or shouldn't be) torquing it enough to gall the threads, and it shouldn't be allowed to rust together.

I've used anti-seize, bore butter, Crisco, and petroleum jelly on nipples, all with good results.
 

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