• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Another Thumble broke.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mtman725

The Last Best place, MT
Joined
Dec 11, 2021
Messages
761
Reaction score
817
Location
Montana
I am so glad I spent the time and effort to fix the original lock when the thimble broke the first time and had a spare, the replacement did the same thing. You can see that there's 10 to 20ths slope in the bridle hole where the thumble fits in. Ordered another one off S & S. But it makes me give a pause to to keeping a back up rifle of the same make,model,caliber or selling them both and getting a better rifle ? What your thoughts?
 
Last edited:
I think you mean tumbler and the bridal has a lot of slop at the tumbler hole, not a good thing. Sounds like you tumbler wasn't properly hardened.
My bad typing, yes I think your right their soft, the replacements is heat treated you can see it.
 
1badDart, can you share what process you used that broke the tumbler? information on what not to do is as valuable as what to do.
by the by, I had a demon for years. for me they stopped making interesting cars around 1970.
Instead of walking over to the vice to lay the lock plate on to drive the tumbler out of the cock I held it in my hand and to drive it out.
 
It broke in the same place as the first one, was just shooting and wouldn't hold full cock again. You can see the slop where the tumbler does into the bridle . And the tip of the full cock breaks right off. So this is the second time with the CVA mountain rifle that's its happen. So I've decide to roll it and look for a better 54. Anyone have a good one they want to part with?
 

Attachments

  • 20220619_083649_03.jpg
    20220619_083649_03.jpg
    147.3 KB · Views: 0
You did ask for thoughts. From your previous posts, it has seemed that you like the rifle, except for the problem with the lock. If it were me (and it isn't), I would try to round up the $200 for the L&R lock upgrade. The L&R flint locks are known to sometimes have problems sparking, but this is a non-issue with the percussion locks and the L&R lock innards are pretty good. Definitely a step up from the CVA locks. That should keep you shooting.

Good luck!

Notchy Bob
 
I have seen a number of broken tumblers and sears over the years,and many times it came from dry firing the set triggers from the half cock position. Used to be suggested by TC and there still plenty of knuckleheads on YouTube suggesting to do it. May not be your issue, just venting a concern.
 
Not a fan of those cva locks, I'd definitely go with a replacement L&R or just get a different type of rifle.
 
I have seen a number of broken tumblers and sears over the years,and many times it came from dry firing the set triggers from the half cock position. Used to be suggested by TC and there still plenty of knuckleheads on YouTube suggesting to do it. May not be your issue, just venting a concern.
I don't dry fire it half or full cock,I am just going to roll it, and up grade.
 
My Mtn. Rifle lock looks a lot better than that one. The sear noses of CVA locks are prone to breaking, usually when something happens to cause it to stop at half cock. In my case, that was pulling back the hammer past half cock and releasing it to catch on half cock and eject a stuck cap. Worked well to get the caps out but I broke two sears in 3 years before I learned my lesson.
 
Back
Top