Another TC Hawken question

[marko*]

First, let me say thanks to all of you who take the time to answer the multitude of questions that are asked on this forum. Because of this forum I've grown from a guy who shot one of those...um, more modern types of muzzleloader, (Colorado BP season was during a time of year when being above 10k feet was gorgeous and we didn't worry too much that it would dump 3 feet of snow on us and cow tags weren't impossible to get) to the owner of a pawn shop TC Hawken that was looking for some love.

I've scoured threads and figured out how to make the stock look real, the brass look black and answered the question, keep it 50 cal or buy a barrel and make it 45 cal. I've learned about ticking, and round balls vs mini and maxi balls, what lead to melt and what "lead" you may want to steer clear of. Once again, thanks.

So once I got the stock refinished, (6 coats of waterlox) and the some of the brass blackened, and the barrelled scrubbed and polished, I headed to the range. I knew that the nipple that was on the rifle was for #11 caps so I popped one on and pulled the front trigger and it went pop (no charge in the barrel). I dropped in 70 grains of fff goex and a round ball, put the cap on and this time i used the set trigger and then the front. The hammer dropped and no boom. I changed out to a musket cap nipple, used a musket cap, did the same set trigger then front, the hammer dropped and no boom. I changed back to the #11 nipple and cap and this time I re-cocked the hammer and pulled just the front trigger everything worked.

Did I put the lock and hammer back together incorrectly, or is this a weak spring? I'm at a loss.

 

[bubba.50]

Sounds like the fly in your lock is either missing or malfunctioning which is allowing the tumbler to catch in the half-cock notch.

 

[bang]

Did the primer go off each time?
If so the channel is clogged.

 

[rafterob]

Lots of variables introduced there. The spring tension on the hammer should not change depending on set or not set trigger use. It could be possible that in the set position the triggers are interfering with some function. Close scrutiny of the lock and the triggers out of the gun, along with observation of the fit of those parts in the gun may shed some light.
You did not elaborate, but did you try multiple times to fire the cap or just stop after the one failure to fire on each nipple. Not uncommon for caps not to fire on first strike if the diameter of the nipple is a little large for the cap. The other scenario is using a musket cap and nipple on a standard rifle. The cut out in the hammer face may not be large enough to clear the head of the cap, causing poor strike force and misfire on the cap. Both situations can be remedied.

 

[Stony Broke]

Did the hammer actually catch in the half cock notch when using the set trigger?

 

[marko*]

Bang, the caps did not go off each time, only when front trigger was pulled. Rafterob, I did hit try multiple times using the set trigger and the caps didn't go off. Stony, the hammer did not catch in half lock. Bubba, that signature is one of the best I've ever seen.

 

[bang]

Bang, the caps did not go off each time, only when front trigger was pulled. Rafterob, I did hit try multiple times using the set trigger and the caps didn't go off. Stony, the hammer did not catch in half lock. Bubba, that signature is one of the best I've ever seen.

Fires only with main trigger.
That's odd.
There is no difference in tension or travel using either. Got me. The trigger mechanism totally separate from hammer mechanism. Only thought I have and it's fetched, is the lever on set that pops up on trigger pull completely setting off the trigger mechanism? Is the leaf spring fully engaged?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Something is slowing the tumbler as the hammer rotates. This could be screws in the lock that have over tightened the bridle over the tumbler. The fly could be rough and slowing the tumbler as the sear slides over the notches. Using the front trigger will lift the sear over the half cock notch and the fly. The flash channel could be blocked. This won't prevent the cap from firing. The lock bolts could be over tightened and moving parts are rubbing the stock wood inside the lock mortise. Loosen your bolts a half turn and try it again.

 

[Grimord]

Something is slowing the tumbler as the hammer rotates. This could be screws in the lock that have over tightened the bridle over the tumbler. The fly could be rough and slowing the tumbler as the sear slides over the notches. Using the front trigger will lift the sear over the half cock notch and the fly. The flash channel could be blocked. This won't prevent the cap from firing. The lock bolts could be over tightened and moving parts are rubbing the stock wood inside the lock mortise. Loosen your bolts a half turn and try it again.

This is my belief also. Backoff on the lock screws just a hair.

 

[bubba.50]

One other thought, those two screws that hold the bridle plate are notorious for workin’ loose on a TC lock. When this happens parts can wobble around. A bit and make the lock unreliable. These need to be as tight as you can get them. If this causes any binding or rubbing then polish the parts ‘til they work smoothly.

 

[marko*]

Thanks everyone. First stop is the lock. BTW where are the proper lubricating points on the TC lock?

 

[bang]

Thanks everyone. First stop is the lock. BTW where are the proper lubricating points on the TC lock?

I pack mine in lithium the wipe excess.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The proper lubricating points are the places where two pieces of metal are in contact and move over each other. The shaft of the bolt that holds the seat. The barrel of the tumbler where it goes through the lock plate. The connection of the main spring to the tumbler. The sear spring contact to the sear. Theses are a few of the points that benefit from lubrication.