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Aiming Vs Pointing
- Thread starter Walkabout
- Start date
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I mount the gun as though hunting and just fire. If there is an issue with fitting you'll see it!
Brokennock
Cannon
Depends on if I'm patterning for a small game load or for a turkey load.
Turkey load gets aimed because i want to see the pattern amd where the densest part of the pattern lands in relation to the sights.
Small game load I target focus, mount gun and shoot.
Turkey load gets aimed because i want to see the pattern amd where the densest part of the pattern lands in relation to the sights.
Small game load I target focus, mount gun and shoot.
Use careful "aiming" to sight in or pattern, being careful to "do" all things correctly - welding cheek to stock, focus on front sight, breath control, trigger squeeze, follow through, etc. Repeat.
On "flying" targets (even fast running targets), properly mounted with a good weld of cheek to stock, focus on the target. The front sight will be in your field of vision, but the bird or rabbit is what you should focus on. Once you've determined what the trajectory of the target will be, start behind the target, choose the appropriate "lead" and pull the trigger. Don't stop your swing and follow through. Wait for smoke to clear.
Without a rear sight, your eye is the rear sight - which is why a consistent cheek weld and mount are important. Keep both eyes open or you lose depth of field. Dominant eye will naturally "take over". Practice ...often.
Throughout history, there have been all sorts of gimmicks and sight combinations to make "shooting flying" easier. Serious practice is best.
Years ago, the "quick skill/quick kill" training method enabled shooters to consistently hit aspirin tablets in the air with BB guns void of sights. As always, my post is too long. Sorry about that.
On "flying" targets (even fast running targets), properly mounted with a good weld of cheek to stock, focus on the target. The front sight will be in your field of vision, but the bird or rabbit is what you should focus on. Once you've determined what the trajectory of the target will be, start behind the target, choose the appropriate "lead" and pull the trigger. Don't stop your swing and follow through. Wait for smoke to clear.
Without a rear sight, your eye is the rear sight - which is why a consistent cheek weld and mount are important. Keep both eyes open or you lose depth of field. Dominant eye will naturally "take over". Practice ...often.
Throughout history, there have been all sorts of gimmicks and sight combinations to make "shooting flying" easier. Serious practice is best.
Years ago, the "quick skill/quick kill" training method enabled shooters to consistently hit aspirin tablets in the air with BB guns void of sights. As always, my post is too long. Sorry about that.
hanshi
Cannon
With its rear sight my smoothbore gets fired like a rifle whether with shot or ball.
The point of patterning is to see if there are any gaping holes in the cloud of lead pellets which you are launching. Once that's established, what happens when you shoot is a different matter. Lifting your head from the stock or stopping your swing isn't a problem for pattern testing.
As a matter of fact, most patterning ignores swing. IF one wanted to really test a pattern for bird shooting, there should be a table or bench with a rest that moves left and right (say no more than 90 degreed ; pointed down range at a huge strip of paper}, and as the gun swings the trigger would be pulled and give you what the true cloud of pellets is doing.
LD
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You are correct. For moving targets there are three main techniques for hitting (that I have read about). Swing to point “at” the target. This is what I do and is quite effective for me and strangely works even with long leads. When a target explodes two yards behind my gun it genuinely surprises me as it feels like I pointed right at it. Second is moving through your target. This method is what target shooters say is the most effective. It is decribed most easily as butt, belly, beak, bang. You will naturally get a proper speed of swing and lead with this method. Third is hold a lead and shoot depending on the presentation. This method has the advantage of working with a delayed shot as with a flintlock, but is disadvantageous if you flinch or can’t judge the lead you need or get shots that haven’t been presented to you before. Good luck, practice with clays, so you will be less likely to maim what you are hunting and make clean kills.
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There's more than one reason to pattern a gun/load.
if you are testing whether the pattern is dense enough, or even then aiming is fine.
If you want to know if your gun fits you then bringing it up and immediately firing at the pattern target will alert you if your shot is not where you were looking (just as Brit Smoothy wrote). For a common example, the the shot pattern is up and to the left of where you think you are shooting, it is a strong indication that the gun is bouncing off your cheek at the mount. Gun fitters generally start by getting the correct amount of drop at comb for a client, and then check the cast off (or on for lefties) using the pattern board.
if you are testing whether the pattern is dense enough, or even then aiming is fine.
If you want to know if your gun fits you then bringing it up and immediately firing at the pattern target will alert you if your shot is not where you were looking (just as Brit Smoothy wrote). For a common example, the the shot pattern is up and to the left of where you think you are shooting, it is a strong indication that the gun is bouncing off your cheek at the mount. Gun fitters generally start by getting the correct amount of drop at comb for a client, and then check the cast off (or on for lefties) using the pattern board.
Then the gun does not fit you. Doesn't mean you can't work around that, but ideally the shot/gun/smoothbore should fit you correctly for best usage.
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A way to check gun fit is to shoulder the weapon with your eyes closed, so that it is most comfortable and natural in your shoulder and face on the stock. Then open your eyes and see if the gun is lined up. Do this a couple times as a rough test. If the line of site is off, you can change the way you mount the gun or you can adjust the gun.
Here are the different adjustments that can be made for fit. It shows a modern gun, but should apply to MLs as well, though depending on the gun more or less of the adjustments may be easily doable.
https://savagearms.com/blog?p=how-to-find-the-perfect-shotgun-fit-with-renegauge
Here are the different adjustments that can be made for fit. It shows a modern gun, but should apply to MLs as well, though depending on the gun more or less of the adjustments may be easily doable.
https://savagearms.com/blog?p=how-to-find-the-perfect-shotgun-fit-with-renegauge
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I do that. Mount the gun eyes shut on an imaginary bird. When I open my eyes and all is lined up well I get that fuzzy feeling of great expectations.
Rock Home Isle
54 Cal.
There’s a big difference between hunting and patterning…so I guess what I would say is that when I’m patterning, I’m trying to make sure that I’m getting my shot string onto the paper, centered on the middle of a 30’ circle, or some specific area, at a measured distance.
When I’m hunting, or shooting clays, I have an instinctive point and follow-through that I use when lining up on the target.
Solid projectile, ball or bullet, aim. But if moving lead.
Shot. point. But if moving lead.
Shot. point. But if moving lead.
Only replying to the OP, not to the comments, I see point and aiming as one in the same. Wither your shooting a precision gun or a shotgun it's the same. With a shotgun or fusil and only a front bead or a rifle with front and rear sights your eye is doing the work. When you mount a front beaded gun, your eye will find the reference point. With rifles it's more of a conscience effort.
Left master eye? I have been compensating for that forever.
I am more consistent when I aim all of my shots, ball or shot.
I am too ‘aim conscious’. When I used to hunt doves would throw a big lead on them and shoot when I though they were in the right spot.
Same with clays.
Erratic birds like quail just never co-operated and fly straight long enough for me to make a judgment
I haven’t shot the flying in a long time.
And never take a shot at a moving animal.
I can get on target pretty quick, but I have to have the whole regimented aim thing done.
All my smoothies have rear sights, I can’t stay on target otherwise
Same with clays.
Erratic birds like quail just never co-operated and fly straight long enough for me to make a judgment
I haven’t shot the flying in a long time.
And never take a shot at a moving animal.
I can get on target pretty quick, but I have to have the whole regimented aim thing done.
All my smoothies have rear sights, I can’t stay on target otherwise
Would love to see some photos of your smooth guns with the rear sights.
My Fusil de chase and my Lancaster smooth rifle
