Advice on removing nipple and barrel needed

Discussion in 'Handguns' started by Stonewallnl, May 22, 2019.

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  1. May 22, 2019 #1

    Stonewallnl

    Stonewallnl

    Stonewallnl

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    I Was able to get most of the surface rust off the pistol.
    However, i have been unable to remove the barrel or the nipple. i have tried rust remover and force but i am not able to.
    Would you have some recommendations for me how to remove this?
    I have added the pictures of my Boxlock pistol.
     

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  2. May 22, 2019 #2

    Pete G

    Pete G

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    Try soaking with a penetrant such as "Kroil".
     
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  3. May 22, 2019 #3

    bprflmkr

    bprflmkr

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    One thing that works is heat. Not a torch, but your oven. Remove all the wood, set it in the oven at about 275 for about an hour. Using wood blocks or a brass or nylon hammer give the barrel threads several light sharp smacks, making sure not to deform any metal. Use a good penetrating oil, or tranny fluid while it’s warm. Down the barrel, nipple and all around. The heat expands the metal, the taps with the blocks will separate any corrosion allowing oil in between. Might have to do it a couple of times. Similar to installing bearings and races. If you think you might need a torch, just use a small butane one on the outside of only the barrel. First put it in the freezer for about an hour. Don’t let the breech get hot. That will expand the barrel some, then it should loosen.
     
  4. May 22, 2019 #4

    curator

    curator

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    PeteG is right on! The gun is small enough for you to remove the grip and soak the entire gun. Kroil is one of the best penetrating oils available. A mixture of acetone and automobile ATF is also very good but you need to contain it as the Acetone will evaporate, Don't do this indoors as the fumes are not healthful. After a good day or two of soaking, apply a small amount of heat to the nipple (propane torch will work) and let it cool a couple of times before attempting to turn it. Get a good fitting nipple wrench or don't even try.
    If there is a "witness mark" on the underside of the barrel where it joins the breech, the barrel will unscrew. A proper barrel wrench, some oak blocks, a bit of pine rosin and a stout vise with non-marring jaws is required to unscrew these barrels after 150 years of rusting together. Again, a couple of cycles of heat and cool will often assist in getting them to let go.
     
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  5. May 22, 2019 #5

    Eterry

    Eterry

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    I dont see a notch for a key to unscrew the barrel, so im wondering why your removing it.

    The nipple certainly needs replacing...in extreme cases I've heard of grinding/sawing/filing the nipple flat, drilling it out, then tapping the hole to a larger nipple.

    Just a thought.
     
  6. May 22, 2019 #6

    Eutycus

    Eutycus

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    I was gonna suggest putting it in the freezer if you dont have a torch. But it looks like the more experienced crowd beat me to it.
     
  7. May 22, 2019 #7

    russellshaffer

    russellshaffer

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    As an almost last resort, you might try drilling the center of the nipple and use an easy out. If it was mine I would not remove the barrel.
     
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  8. May 23, 2019 #8

    Stonewallnl

    Stonewallnl

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    would it be safe to fire the pistol when you dont remove the barrel for loading?
     
  9. May 23, 2019 #9

    Stonewallnl

    Stonewallnl

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    I want to remove the barrel because the barrel need to be removed in order to load it if im not mistaken?
     
  10. May 23, 2019 #10

    curator

    curator

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    Stonewallni:
    You don't need to remove the barrel on that pistol to load it. A true "screw barrel" pistol will have a "lug" on the side of the barrel near the breech to facilitate removing it for loading. Your gun is simply loaded from the muzzle end. It is not made to easily unscrew the barrel. Quite possibly, the nipple is threaded through the barrel, preventing its removal.
     
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  11. May 23, 2019 #11

    SDSmlf

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    I have used an ultrasonic cleaner to remove stuck nipples from cylinders and to free up frozen hand guns (among other things). First couple of cycles with BP gun or cylinder I use soap and water as a solution, and if that combination doesn’t lossen things up I’ll switch to ‘Ed’s Red’, although I have been criticized for using it on traditional BP firearms (it’s meant for modern firearms), but my ultrasonic cleaner isn’t exactly traditional either. If you don’t have a ultrasonic clearner, just soak the gun in the Ed’s Red over night in a covered container to minimize evaporation.

    For reference, ‘Ed’s Red’ is equal parts of transmission fluid (Dexron II, IIe or III) acetone, mineral spirits (Aliphatic Mineral Spirits or Stodard Solvent/Varsol, the real stuff that doesn’t come in a plastic container) and K1 kerosene. Store in a metal or glass container. Remember, this stuff doesn’t cut BP fouling like a water based solution, but it penetrates and cuts through the other crap.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2019
  12. May 23, 2019 #12

    Eterry

    Eterry

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    Curator you beat me to it...i passed on buying a true original Screw Barrel Pistol last year...i wish i haven't. He even had the key.
    This one, a derringer sized 41 cal, with folding trigger, had the lug on the barrel bottom. He took the key from his pocket and handed it to me. It unscrewed easily.
     
  13. May 26, 2019 #13

    russellshaffer

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    Stoney, did you get that nipple out? If you did, what worked?
     
  14. Jun 1, 2019 #14

    Stonewallnl

    Stonewallnl

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    noo i did not get the nipple out yet. it is really stuck. if something works ill post it.
     
  15. Jun 1, 2019 #15

    FishDFly

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    "A mixture of acetone and automobile ATF is also very good but you need to contain it as the Acetone will evaporate".

    Even when containing the solution, the acetone will float on top of the ATF since the specific gravities are different. Only way to stop the separation is agitate it for quite some time.

    I have a mayo. jar with the solution and go by and shake it every so often, eventually it stops separating.
     
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  16. Jun 2, 2019 #16

    Dibbuk

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    To my untrained eyes, the barrel does not look like it is supposed to be unscrewed, but, instead, is loaded through the muzzle like any other single shot percussion pistol.

    As already mentioned, remove the wood and let everything soak for a few days in a jar of penetrating oil, ATF, diesel fuel, or whatever is the thinnest oil you have available.
     
  17. Jun 2, 2019 #17

    SDSmlf

    SDSmlf

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    One of the reasons I suggested an ultrasonic cleaner with the Ed’s Red was to keep it agitated and work it into the smallest areas.
     
  18. Jun 4, 2019 #18

    bud in pa

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    I have found PB Blaster rust penetrant to be better than anything else that I have used. The first thing that I used it on was a nut and bolt on a cultivator blade that was about 100 years old. Let it sit for a day and it came right off.
     
  19. Jun 9, 2019 #19

    russellshaffer

    russellshaffer

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    Any luck yet with that nipple?
     

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