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Advice on muzzleloader - not the "usual" options

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lasmacgod

32 Cal.
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My first and only traditional-style muzzleloader is a T/C Renegade 54 percussion. Since I have sent all my unmentionables packing, it is my only muzzleloader.

The problem is, I only want to shoot round balls, but I can't seem to get it to group worth a darn at anything past 60 yards, regardless of load, patch, or ball. Conicals are another story, but I don't care to be punished when I simply want to enjoy shooting. Plus, they are expensive to buy, and use too much of my valuable lead when I cast them.

Custom guns and the better gun kits are out for various personal reasons I won't bore anyone with right now. I would like to step down to 45 or 50 caliber for reasons of cost to shoot and recoil. I would like to get into a flintlock, but I know a good flintlocks cost money, and am willing to stick with percussion for the time being if necessary. I am not terribly interested in historical accuracy right now, I just want a good, reliable field rifle for shooting paper, vermin/pests, and deer. I am looking for minute-of-deer accuracy up to 100 yards on days when the nut behind the trigger is up to it as well.

I am also not interested in mail order, as I want to inspect before I buy, and don't want to deal with shipping back and forth if I don't like what I get.

So, I apologize for the long prelude, and submit the options I am currently considering:

1) Rebarrel my Renegade with a Colerain barrel and new breech plug. I am comfortable with cutting dovetails for sights, etc. Only problem is that the Renegade, with a 1" barrel, is heavy enough as-is. I certainly would not want to go to a smaller bore due to weight.

2) I found an older Cabela's Traditional Hawken in 54 percussion with a 15/16 barrel for a great price. If the barrel is in great shape, it may shoot well, and I'll just deal with the 54 cal. If not, I can rebarrel it, but at least it shouldn't weigh more than the Renegade if I go to 50 cal. I have not met with the owner for an inspection as of yet.

3) I also found a nice, unfired Pedersoli Blue Ridge flintlock in 50 cal, but the rifling appeared to be a bit shallow for round ball. I didn't feel right asking the owner if I could stick calipers in the bore for a rough measurement. From reading here, the locks on Pedersoli flintlocks seem to be hit or miss.

4) The local Cabelas has their Pedersoli Traditional Hawken rifles in 50 cal in flint and percussion. These are light, slim, and feel great - but on all I inspected, the muzzles are crowned off-center. Plus, they are at the very fringe edge of my budget.


Locally, finding traditional muzzleloaders for a reasonable price is difficult. When they do pop up, they are usually like all the other guns: the owners think what they have is made of gold, and refuse to negotiate price. The older Hawken and the Blue Ridge above are the only used ones I have seen locally for less than new prices in the past few months and appear to have been cared for properly.
 
Ready for the questions ?

What are the source of your round ball, swagged or cast ? pure lead ?
Powder, what type are you using ?
Powder charge ?
Ball/patch fit ?
Post this and many will then offer their ideas.
 
Keep in mind that RBs are very sensitive to wind even a light breeze will blow a group. Sights can be an issue.
If the hooked breech fits loose it can blow groups.
Most rifles shoot best with a ball .005 under bore and a patch over .015" thick. Patch lube can cause problems as well.
Not wiping with absolute consistency can blow groups. Not wiping will blow groups.
Have you tried both FFF and FF powder? Many rifles shoot best with about 1/2 ball weight of powder 90 gr in a 50 and 100 in a 54.
Dan
 
Lasmacgod,

Have you thought about trying a Hornady Pa. Conical vs. a plains bullit or some such? They are only 240 gr. and shoot quite nice with a round ball load, minus the patch!

Here is the link
http://www.hornady.com/store/50-Cal-240-gr-PA-Conical/

And the Pedersoli Blue Ridge ( Cabelas version of Pedersoli Frontier and Hatfield rifle) is a pretty good round ball shooter!
 
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SamTex said:
Ready for the questions ?

What are the source of your round ball, swagged or cast ? pure lead ?
Powder, what type are you using ?
Powder charge ?
Ball/patch fit ?
Post this and many will then offer their ideas.

My round balls are Hornady swaged and my cast (Lee molds). .530 and .535 In my cast balls, I tried both pure lead and wheel weights.

Goex red can, 2F and 3F

Powder charges ranged from 60 to 100 grains. It shows a preference for 70 grains, though. If memory serves, I was getting 3-4" groups at 60 yards. Step back to 100, and I'm lucky to even hit the target. The "pattern" is somewhat centered around the target, though.

Patches all were pre-lubed. I can't remember for the life of me the brand(s) or thicknesses. The only ones I have remaining though measure .014" with my calipers. If memory serves, all combinations were tight and required my short starter. Recovered patches all looked good with no cuts or tears.

Dan Phariss said:
Keep in mind that RBs are very sensitive to wind even a light breeze will blow a group. Sights can be an issue.
If the hooked breech fits loose it can blow groups.
Most rifles shoot best with a ball .005 under bore and a patch over .015" thick. Patch lube can cause problems as well.
Not wiping with absolute consistency can blow groups. Not wiping will blow groups.

I don't take too much note of the wind unless it is blowing pretty good. I guess it could have been blowing enough though. I'll just have to pay more attention in the future.

I installed a T/C tang-mounted peep sight, thinking it was just me not shooting the original sights well. There was no change in performance.

The hooked breech is tight. I cannot detect any movement in the barrel whatsoever no matter how hard I try to force it to.

As for wiping, I have tried wiping between shots, between groups, and not at all. I have tried spit patches followed by a dry patch, spit patch without following with a dry patch, those pre-soaked cleaning patches with and without following with a dry patch.

Rusty_Nail said:
Lasmacgod,

Have you thought about trying a Hornady Pa. Conical vs. a plains bullit or some such? They are only 240 gr. and shoot quite nice with a round ball load, minus the patch!

Here is the link
http://www.hornady.com/store/50-Cal-240-gr-PA-Conical/

And the Pedersoli Blue Ridge ( Cabelas version of Pedersoli Frontier and Hatfield rifle) is a pretty good round ball shooter!

I was not even aware of those. I like the idea of the PRB's so much that I never really experimented with conicals beyond what I could get locally.

On the Blue Ridge, what is the general consensus on Pedersoli here? Searching here and elsewhere, I get the impression that Pedersoli does not have the best support, and that they are extremely high quality if you get a good one and a lemon with no support if it is a turd straight out of the box. I also found complaints about the breech plug/antechamber design causing ignition problems on some individual flintlock specimens. I only ask because I know how the internet can be with blowing a small, isolated problem completely out of proportion.
 
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There is no reason for you to have accuracy problems with the combinations your using. There is a trial and error period where you will have to try different combinations.

Are your sights tight and holding adjustments? If your patches are tight and look good after firing you might want to weigh the balls and work up the powder charges 5 grains at a time.

Geo. T.
 
I support and agree with everything already posted about getting your rifle to shoot. However, your original post seemed to be about acquiring a replacement, so I'll throw this into the mix:
Have you considered replacing the barrel with a Green Mountain "drop-in" roundball barrel..???
I've done just that on 2 50 cal. T/C Hawken rifles and get "one-ragged-hole" @ 50 yds from both.
 
I wanted to buy a Green Mountain drop-in a while back but just didn't have/want to spend the money at the time. Now I can't seem to find one except when they pop up on one of the auction sites for 300+. Now I am kicked myself for not buying one when I had the chance.
 
That is on my short list. It will be ordered by the end of the week. Funny thing is, I stumbled upon the website a few weeks ago and wasn't too sure it wasn't a scam. It just sounds too good to be true. Now that I have read so many endorsements here I figured it must be the real deal.


For an update: I was at a gun show this weekend for a few odds and ends when I stopped by an old boy's table from whom I had purchased old Lyman molds and other harder to find reloading and casting equipment before. As luck would have it , he had two Lyman GPR's for sale from his personal collection. They were both in like-new condition and both in 50 cal. One was a blued flintlock carbine. Had a 5 groove barrel, I'm guessing 1:48 twist. The other was a browned percussion model with the 8 groove barrel. Wouldn't you know it, the browned cap lock followed me home.

Going back home next weekend so I will hopefully have a range report when I get back.

As for the Renegade, my brother is going to take it. He is a recoil junkie and wants to shoot conicals through it. I will help him out with everything I have learned from you all.
 
You will find your GPR to be a great shooter. I have one with both the 50 and 54 barrel. They both shoot best with real black powder. I shoot .490 balls with .018 patches with 75 grains of 2F. I prefer the CCI #11 Magnum caps.

I am currently shooting .495 balls with a .15 patch but will go back to the .490's.

Snug up the cross keys as they advise in the manual (available on line) before you adjust the sights. I failed to do this and the point of impact changed when I had them get loose and tightened them.

I love mine and I hope you do as well! Geo. T.
 
You seem to have your course well plotted. Congratulations..!!
One thing to keep in mind about Dutch's system...
It's a system. To get the optimum results, you can't cherry-pick the easiest, least troublesome features and ignore the rest. Add me to the people who highly recommend it.
 
I love my pedersoli frontier/ caelas blue ridge. I own several in different calibers in both flint and percussion and no issues at all. They all shoot excellent.
 
Were these ever offered browned from the factory, or was it done after? If it was a kit, it is very well done. I don't care either way, just like to know the history.

And now for pics. Sorry their orientation is not right. I fixed it in my album, but when linked, they revert back.

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lasmacgod said:
Were these ever offered browned from the factory, or was it done after?

I've never seen anything but blued, but I'm no expert on all things Lyman. Some details in the fill before finishing, the gloss of the finish, and the taper of the stock to the butt plate in the last photo add up to "kit" to my eye. Good job certainly. You have a bright future with that nice rifle!
 
Don Steele said:
One thing to keep in mind about Dutch's system...
It's a system. To get the optimum results, you can't cherry-pick the easiest, least troublesome features and ignore the rest.
Yes, but...
It is also a set of principles and a wealth of experience in achieving consistency. In my case, I wound up using some aspects of the System and careful attention to the principles and his experience to expedite developing my own procedures that work well enough for my purposes and suit my ideosyncracies & preferences. Dutch's system was still the best $20 I ever spent in this sport.

Regards,
Joel
 
I have a 28 year old Cabelas/Lyman Sporterized Hawken (checkered stock) in .54 cal that shoots cloverleaves at 30+ yards using a .530" Lee cast RB and .018" patch with 80 Gr. Pyrodex RS. The patch is tighter than what I'd consider normal, since I need to start it with a wooden mallet; the short starter ain't enough on its' own. Sure, maybe real BP could be more accurate, but not by much more than what I'm already doing. there are 2 large pits about an inch down from the muzzle, but accuracy is impressive nonetheless.

I've fired several flintlocks in .54 over the years, and found them to be easier to find an accurate load than my .50's in flint or percussion.

You may want to spend a little more time working with combinations of powder loads and patch thicknesses. No reason you can't get much better accuracy with the rifle you already have.
 
You need to change patches and lubes. Also some photos of the groups fired would be helpful.
The Italians usually make pretty good barrels and of good material.
Are you using magnum caps? These can cause problems. Do you have a vented nipple? These can cause problems.
Try plain old spit for patch lube. It might help.
Is the rear sight tight or can it move slightly?
There are a host of problems that could cause accuracy problems that has nothing to do with the barrel.

Dan
 
Time for an update.

The GPR shows a great deal of promise. I was not able to shoot further than 50 yards on this trip. I need to fine-tune patch material. I didn't take any pre-cut patches with me, instead spit-patching some material I found around the house which initially mic'd out thick enough. The weave was far too loose though, giving blown patches and a poor seal. The ball started with light pressure on the short starter, and the gun was giving more of a "pop" than a "bang". In spite of that, it gave me 4" at 50 yards, matching the best I could do with a round ball in the Renegade.

I have since purchased a bit of #40 Drill Cotton and Blue Stripe pillow ticking, both of which have a much, much tighter weave, and have ordered a couple cans of Ballistol. I have since received Dutch's system, and am extremely impressed. What I love most about it after reading through it, is that with a bit of prep work, the actual system is extremely easy to utilize at the range or in the field.


Oh, and a side note. I have never dry-balled before. Ever. This weekend, I think I dry-balled at least a half dozen times. :cursing:


ETA: I noticed that in my earlier post, I stated this gun had an 8-groove barrel. That was a typo. It is a 6-groove. I'm not able to edit that post for some reason to correct it.
 
isn't the renegade a shorter barrel rifle? a 26" barrel will not do you any favors at the longer ranges.

Fleener
 
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