Advice about a crack in the stock ?

[kyron4]

Getting my Traditions Ken. rifle kit finished up , and noticed this hairline crack in the stock near the comb/buttplate top. Did not see it or it wasn't there when I stained and oiled the stock. I added a little epoxy across the bottom of the "L" as there is also a very slight almost invisible crack on the other side in the same place. Any thing I can do at this point ? How bad is it likely to get once I start shooting the rifle ? Any advice or opinions ? -thanks

 

[Nobade]

If you used very thin epoxy and successfully got it in there (I like to use an air nozzle to blow it into cracks) that should be the strongest part of the whole stock. Though it's a good idea to clamp it as the epoxy cures so you can sand it out and the repair will be invisible.

 

[david w]

I doubt epoxy will cure the crack. Old time gunsmiths used mending plates to strengthen cracked area's.

 

[kyron4]

Like an "L" shaped piece of steel installed under the butt cap ?

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

You can wick some thin "super glue" into the crack. Works pretty good.

 

[david w]

Like an "L" shaped piece of steel installed under the butt cap ?

I don't think it would have to be "L" shaped, but functional. You can try the glue method, but to actually get any glue deep enough would be a challenge. The problem with a mending plate, is that you need to have inletting skills, and some very sharp carving tools. You need to remove the butt plate and see where the crack is going. It MAY be possible to drill a hole under the butt plate, and then add a dowel rod and glue that would transverse the crack. This repair would not show up on the outside of the gun. However, you would still have a visible crack. I can't say without seeing the crack.

 

[Mtman725]

l've just finished two different CVA stocks that had cracks in them. Both aren't going anywhere. The one was bad on the left hand side going back wards from the lock plate screw. Towards the butt, I used a Dereml tool and fine ball bit, go inside and worked a grove in the barrel channel, then bedded the tang in place. On the second, it is on the lock side bottom rear, used the same ball bit, drilling under the crack, then working the epoxy into the hole and crack with my figures. The first one I've had it rebored and shoot it both in the 50 then 54, no sign of it moving. The second waiting for a break in the weather to shoot it its a 54 as well. I used Brownells and JBs in clear and working it in to the cracks after bedding the tangs. Blonde the first will put 3 PRB in the same hole, We'll see with Sadie.

 

[LME]

You can wick some thin "super glue" into the crack. Works pretty good.

In my shop super glue works! It is stronger than the wood itself and the thin variety flows into the smallest of cracks.

 

[Mtman725]

Its not perfect but I am not looking for beauty Queens. I looking for hunting rifle And I chase the accuracy. Even Beauty queens have flaws.

 

[Vaino]

The only glue that I've used on stocks is a runny super glue. I first stain the crack, let dry and then apply the super glue which disolves the stain making the crack invisible when the final stain is applied. Caution....if the crack is wide, clamp closed..... Superglue doesn't like to gap......Fred

 

[Mtman725]

I'll remember the Super Glue.

 

[deerstalkert]

one method i have used for getting epoxy into a hairline crack is to mix the two parts epoxy well then use twice the amount acetone or lacquer thinner to dilute it. it will flow into the crack and stabilize it. and yes epoxy will work. i have a 1907 made rifle with a forearm that is egg shell thin. made up a batch of the above and soaked the entire piece. has not further cracked since. that was 1966 when i treated it.
i have also used that treatment with thin wood that i have checkered. certain unmentionable shotguns that are sweet and 16 are notorious for blowing through when re checkering. this has saved more than a few.

 

[Century to late]

one method i have used for getting epoxy into a hairline crack is to mix the two parts epoxy well then use twice the amount acetone or lacquer thinner to dilute it. it will flow into the crack and stabilize it. and yes epoxy will work. i have a 1907 made rifle with a forearm that is egg shell thin. made up a batch of the above and soaked the entire piece. has not further cracked since. that was 1966 when i treated it.
i have also used that treatment with thin wood that i have checkered. certain unmentionable shotguns that are sweet and 16 are notorious for blowing through when re checkering. this has saved more than a few.

 

[Century to late]

In the woodworking world we use ca glue it can be had in thick,medium and thin. Same as superglue. Store in airtight container with moisture packs and will keep for years. Use a needle tip for controll.

 

[Nobade]

I doubt epoxy will cure the crack. Old time gunsmiths used mending plates to strengthen cracked area's.

I have repaired dozens of cracked stocks this way over the last 20 years of doing this stuff. Not one of them broke later. If old time gunsmiths had access to it they wouldn't have had to use metal plates to repair breaks. And yes, CA glue works for this as well especially on small pieces that get chipped out.

 

[Mtman725]

I tried the super glue last night, then rubbed it done with the Bees/BLO/T and it looks better. You cant catch the crack with your nail now. But whats CA glue?

 

[LME]

I tried the super glue last night, then rubbed it done with the Bees/BLO/T and it looks better. You cant catch the crack with your nail now. But whats CA glue?

Super glue!

 

[Eric Krewson]

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive; AKA CA, AKA superglue, (don't know where the bold font came from).

 

[deerstalkert]

Cyanoacrylate Adhesive; AKA CA, AKA superglue, (don't know where the bold font came from).

gremlins!

 

[Mtman725]

Never even gave CA glue a second thought. Thanks.