A TC Hawken

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Muddly

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A bud sold me one for $50. Poor thing... He got it from a farmer who claimed it was in the barn for at least 20 years.
Looks it too!
I figured I'd get it and have a spare lock and trigger set. The barrel, inside and out is beyond economical repair.
The lock is a bit rusty, but very salvageable. I can strip it with muriatic acid and have a " French gray" look.
The stock is quite nice and has some minor scratches. The inletting and fitting of the furniture is very good. No ugly gaps or rounded off edges. Except the fluting of the nose cap. HATE that design...
Anyhow. I'm beginning to think a barrel search may be in order. I really prefer the iron mounted Renegade, but the Hawken handles nicely and does good work offhand.
Whatcha think? Maybe get a good barrel and have 2 flinters? Or maybe get a percussion lock and barrel. Or just keep the lock and triggers and part the rest out like I originally planned.
Argh!
 

Dr5x

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A bud sold me one for $50. Poor thing... He got it from a farmer who claimed it was in the barn for at least 20 years.
Looks it too!
I figured I'd get it and have a spare lock and trigger set. The barrel, inside and out is beyond economical repair.
The lock is a bit rusty, but very salvageable. I can strip it with muriatic acid and have a " French gray" look.
The stock is quite nice and has some minor scratches. The inletting and fitting of the furniture is very good. No ugly gaps or rounded off edges. Except the fluting of the nose cap. HATE that design...
Anyhow. I'm beginning to think a barrel search may be in order. I really prefer the iron mounted Renegade, but the Hawken handles nicely and does good work offhand.
Whatcha think? Maybe get a good barrel and have 2 flinters? Or maybe get a percussion lock and barrel. Or just keep the lock and triggers and part the rest out like I originally planned.
Argh!
OF COURSE I CAN'T SEE ALL THE PARTS YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT BUT AS THE OLD GUY SAYS, THE ONLY THING THAT IS A GUN IS THE BARREL.
COULD ROBERT HOYTA OF FAIRFIELD.PA BE ABLE TO UP THE BORE A FEW CLIBERS AND RESTOFRE THAT BARREL AND START YOU CREATING A LAZEROUS RIFLE. RETURNED FROM THE DEAD..I DON'T RECALL YOUR MENTIONING THE CONDITION OF HE STOCK EXCEPT THE PARTS SEEM TO FIT IT WELL..
I WOULD HAVEBEEN PROUD TO OWNE SUCH A IFE. AT THE VEY LEAST IT COULD BE A GIFTTO A BEGINNER. THUS INCREASING THE SPORT MEMBERSHIP BY ONE.
AS I SAID. I CANT SEE THE PARTS BUT YOU SEEM TO INDICATE THEY ARE APPRECIABLY BETTER THAN JUN.
I HATE TO SEE OLD FIENDS DIE AND THIS JUST MIGHT BECOME N OLDE FRIEND TO BREATH LIFE INTO.

DUTCH SCULCZEWSKI ( ORIGINAL NAM CHANGED BEFORE FIRST BIRTHDAY.
 

Don Steele

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15/16th T/C "Hawken" barrels show up on various websites for sale pretty regularly so getting a replacement barrel shouldn't be too difficult. Before doing that however, I'd want to determine if the flintlock is of the newer style, or one of the originals. If you don't know, post a picture of what you have.
 

Loyalist Dave

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The barrel, inside and out is beyond economical repair .
That's too bad.... I was hoping when I started reading that there would be enough metal for you to send it to Bob Hoyt and have it either converted to a smoothie, or re-rifled. The exterior, pitting, I think is probably "character", but...if it causes the barrel walls to be compromised...oh well.

LD
 

Rifleman1776

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That's too bad.... I was hoping when I started reading that there would be enough metal for you to send it to Bob Hoyt and have it either converted to a smoothie, or re-rifled. The exterior, pitting, I think is probably "character", but...if it causes the barrel walls to be compromised...oh well.

LD
Can't the barrel be relined and kept present caliber? Of course "beyond economical" repair is at the judgement of the owner. Going with reline would allow choice of type of rifling, twist, etc.
 

Maven

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A bud sold me one for $50. Poor thing... He got it from a farmer who claimed it was in the barn for at least 20 years.
Looks it too!
I figured I'd get it and have a spare lock and trigger set. The barrel, inside and out is beyond economical repair.
The lock is a bit rusty, but very salvageable. I can strip it with muriatic acid and have a " French gray" look.
The stock is quite nice and has some minor scratches. The inletting and fitting of the furniture is very good. No ugly gaps or rounded off edges. Except the fluting of the nose cap. HATE that design...
Anyhow. I'm beginning to think a barrel search may be in order. I really prefer the iron mounted Renegade, but the Hawken handles nicely and does good work offhand.
Whatcha think? Maybe get a good barrel and have 2 flinters? Or maybe get a percussion lock and barrel. Or just keep the lock and triggers and part the rest out like I originally planned.
Argh!

If it was mine, I 'd soak the bbl. in Evaporust, the clean it to see if it's really beyond repair. After Evaporust, I'd scrub the bore with something like 0000 Brillo or the equivalent Scotch Brite pad (white), get a new nipple and test it @ 25 yd. You've nothing to lose and may be pleasantly surprised.
 

Muddly

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It really is too far gone. What little I've done so far showed the rifling is obliterated for at least half the barrel. The outside has heavy scale rust around the muzzle down the one side.
I'm going to sell off the stock and brass furniture, and keep the lock and trigger for spares for my Renegade.
 

Dibbuk

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JUST my personal opinion:

If it is a percussion lock,get a replacement percussion barrel. I say this because I found that the flint and percussion locks are inletted slightly differently.

Save the sights, under rib, barrel lug, and everything else you can get off the old barrel.

Remove the lock and trigger group, and clean and oil both.

Check fleabay or gunbroken for a replacement barrel in the caliber of your choice.
 

Eddie Southgate

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Mine have both Flint and Percussion lock and both fit the same . Not sure why you have had a different experience . I have owned several of the TC 's that started as percussion and were converted to flint by simply changing the lock and breech plug , none required any wood to be removed .

I'd waste a little time trying to save the barrel . Evaporust is great as is the steel wool mentioned above , I load the wool with water soluble valve lapping compound . Soak it , lap it , oil it and shoot it to see what you get before you strip it for parts . You might be surprised how much rifling is still there under the rust . Even a badly pitted barrel can still shoot fine after you smooth it up a bit . Might need to swabb it out every few shots but that's not a bad idea anyway .

If you don't save it add he breech plug to the parts you save as they are worth more than you might think .
 

Muddly

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Sold the stock. $50 for a lock ( flint) and set of triggers is a bargain.
Will use the $ for stuff for my Renegade and Euroarms 1863 Remington
 

Dr5x

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Now that's a last name with flair!
IE - Village elder, keeper of the records and collector of taxes...
TX GRZZZ.
Does Sculczewski translate into Keeper of the record and collector of taxes?
Or were pulling my leg as the old timers would say?
I have no Polish but a fairly effective fake Coation I use on scam phone callers that apparently is convincing.
Dutch Schoultz Fairly illiterate and tax avoider.
 

ugly old guy

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It really is too far gone. What little I've done so far showed the rifling is obliterated for at least half the barrel. The outside has heavy scale rust around the muzzle down the one side.
I'm going to sell off the stock and brass furniture, and keep the lock and trigger for spares for my Renegade.
Consider the screw-in "rifled" choke tubes.
They impart a spin to the slug in just a couple inches.
Just because the rifling may be "shot out" in part of the bore does not necessarily mean the barrel is unuseable.
Worse case you can have it bored out to a larger caliber.

Before trashing the barrel, I'd remove tve breech plug and give the bore a good cleaning to make sure all the old fouling is removed.
I've heard tales from some who thought the barrel was shot out after inspecting the bore with a light - no visible rifling. Yet after a good cleaning the rifling was fine.
 
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