Well Brit, I tried to explain.I disagree.
You implied it is dangerous.
You or anyone without a shred of evidence do not have the right to play God in directing, encouraging or deterring anyone from doing anything you can not prove to be dangerous.
You are inducing fear for some kind of self induced nobel agenda that is not your privilege or right.
Weight and volume are not irrelevant but they are relative. They make useful guidelines for starting and should not be totally disregarded out of hand.My supply of 3F powder was getting pretty low. I have been able to get my hands on 2 lbs of it for shooting. I certainly didn't want to start any confrontation regarding use of 4F as a main charge. I did do a search on the forum but couldn't find much info. I will certainly check out Britsmoothy's posts.
Since weight and volume are irrelevant, would it be more exacting to work up loads with a chronograph?
Thank you.Boy, does this topic not cause some people to spontaneously combust. In my younger days there was never any concern about using different granulation of blackpowder. You used what you had. Finer grain powder typically required less powder for your accuracy load vs a not so fine powder. Different manufacture’s powder many times required different weight charges for your accuracy load. Guns weren’t blowing up, they just shot and fouled differently with different granulation and powder manufactures. Here are photographs of both sides of the same can of DuPont ffff powder (pre dates G-O purchase, which pre dates.... cost $2.10 back in the day). Notice the yellow underlined ‘fine print’. ‘SUITABLE FOR MUSKETS, PISTOLS & SHOTGUNS’. Interesting.
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Below are photographs of pages 76 and 77 from the first edition (1975) Lyman Black Powder Handbook’ showing 44 caliber handgun loads. Note powder granulation underlined in red with round balls and Lyman hollow base conical.
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Below is a photograph of my original 1858 that has used pounds of ffff powder. Still have powder in the horn, and yep, it was ffff. It is the granulation that came with the gun when my old man gave it to me.
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If the Lyman data is to be believe (some will argue it isn’t), it would seem very safe to start around 40 grains of ffff in a rifle and work up from there for accuracy. I would not hesitate for a minute to shoot ffff in any muzzleloader in sound mechanical condition. Would just need to work up a load like any other granulation.
Just my opinion. With published load data and actual experience with actual period guns.
I found myself in this situation about 50 years ago. Back then, the common wisdom was to never use 4fg as a main charge, so I mixed it with some 2fg and reduced my load maybe 10%. I found no difference in accuracy and fouling. Or you could by yourself one of those little North American Arms percussion .22s. They require you to use 4fg.For some reason it seems that I have 3 pounds of 4F powder that I have accumulated over the years. I have a ,45 caliber flintlock which I always use 3F for my main charge. I'm aware that 4F is indicated for a priming powder.
It will take me forever to go through 3 lbs of 4F if I use it only for priming.
Can 4F be used as a main charge powder? I have a digital scale and I was going to weigh out 70 grains of 3F and 4F to see what the volume difference would be. Thoughts?