.36 Conundrum

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dave951

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I said Goex in my original post, I think I'm find some Scotch Brite and speed up the break in process.
For the record- Goex makes Old E, Standard Goex and Reenactor Powder. So just saying Goex doesn't say what powder you're using.
 

Sam squanch

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I have to swab the bore after every shot with my .32 , or accuracy goes bad. I use a firewall between the powder and patched ball. I use cream of wheat. Helped a lot. Now get out there and bag some Appalachian mud squid……
 

Sidney Smith

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I think it has to do with breech design. It's hard for me to clean all the crud out of the reduced diameter patent breech. I have been using water for cleaning then ballistol for rust prevention, come back a couple days later and the bore is full of rust which could be part of my problem 🙄.
That makes sense then. My rifle has a squared breech plug so I'm full diameter all the way to the bottom of the barrel.
 

Curley 50 cal

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I have found that using a appropriate sized brass brush will do a very good job at cleaning fouling residue. I only shoot Goex black powder. 2F in my fifty and 3F in my 45 and 36. after brushing and inverting the gun to tap it on a rubber mat (never the ground) after 3-5 shots I will dry patch the barrel with the appropriate sized jag and patch. Everyone has their own way. That just mine. Works for me and best wishes
 

Sam squanch

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Please use a brass brush that has been looped through the main screw in part that goes in your ramrod. It will not separate like the cheap ones, leaving you with a stuck brush in your bore with no way to get it out.
 

ZUG

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Sounds to me like you have a rough bore. If it's a used gun then the previous owner did not take care of the bore properly and you have pits and rough spots. If it's a new gun then it has burrs from rifling the bore which will smooth itself out after about 200 shots or you can run 4/0 steel wool or maroon color Scotch-Brite through the bore -- 50 or so times (use some oil on either one when you do it) -- good luck ;)
 

Thomas.bill92

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Please use a brass brush that has been looped through the main screw in part that goes in your ramrod. It will not separate like the cheap ones, leaving you with a stuck brush in your bore with no way to get it out.
Been there, done that. Luckily it was on a short barreled .50 I had and I was able to drive an aluminum arrow shaft over the brush and pull it out.
 
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This is more interesting as I have a ml .36 double rifle 1904 to 1954 I was stuck for caps so made up some large pistol primer holders , To me it's a 1926 reproduction rifle possible Belgium make sold by Midlands gun co, expensive £2200 at Holts auction I cannot fire it in uk as I cannot get a police permit, so it's a wall hanger.....it's mint condition 1/38" twist I recall too fast for balls ?????

Being real primers I looked around , it's a bit like the .35 Remington for hunting under 100 yards but great for deer and bear, I am thinking out of the box and thoughts of using R15 or Varget I cannot get a police permit for BP either. as it's an explosive,

Note I am am 78 and the police recently took away my shotguns in case I shoot intruders.....its life in the uk ....it was once a green and pleasant land But there's some hope in France etc. Been there in our motorhome , fantastic big country compared with uk......weird laws you can buy BP guns old or reproduction over the counter but you need a permit to carry them, or you must have a good reason to carry them, Very difficult to understand but better than uk laws....hunting permits are very complex too.......Europe is not the place for guns or V8 cars like you lot across the pond.......such is life. I wish you all well

I like the little 180 grain Sierra pistol bullets. And I modify others on my little lathe all good fun that's all I have left except my 12 ft lbs. max BSA Scorpio 177&22 pop air guns where I shoot a couple of squirrels up to 50 yards away in my garden, 80g. .35 air gun pellets are magic at 1400 ft sec I leave a few photos.
 

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Britsmoothy

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I've never ever cleaned a patent breech. I just let the water do it for me 🤷‍♂️.
I have heard of many getting implements stuck in patent breeches though 🤦‍♂️
 

painter

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I've never ever cleaned a patent breech. I just let the water do it for me 🤷‍♂️.
I have heard of many getting implements stuck in patent breeches though 🤦‍♂️
I've pumped water through the patent breeches until the water ran clean. I still got fouling from them when I stick a q-tip and a little moose milk in there. The way a q-tip fits in a 8-32, or 10-32 thread, it's not falling off, and it isn't so tight in the patent breech that it won't fall out on it's own. Try it Nate...😉

Nate
 

Britsmoothy

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I've pumped water through the patent breeches until the water ran clean. I still got fouling from them when I stick a q-tip and a little moose milk in there. The way a q-tip fits in a 8-32, or 10-32 thread, it's not falling off, and it isn't so tight in the patent breech that it won't fall out on it's own. Try it Nate...😉

Nate
No sir thank you.
The water has removed the corrosive elements, the salts. All that is left behind is a little harmless carbon. 👍
 

Springerpanhead

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Hey there everyone. I am having an issue with a Pedersoli Frontier (cap-lock) I recently picked up in .36. My intention was to use it as a squirrel gun this year but until I can get this issue sorted out, the gun is not of much use. Anyway I started doing some load development using fffg Goex and right off the bat, loading was next to impossible, even with a heavy steel range rod. I wrote it off that the balls I had been using must not be larger than .350" and made an order for some Hornady .350 balls and some .010" ox-yoke patches. Well the next trip out to the range went a lot better, loading was much smoother even without swabbing the bore (I shot over 50 times that session)... The catch is, I was using Pyrodex :eek:. I even used my home cast balls and they loaded just fine too which leads me to the powder.

I would like to use real black for this rifle because well... Its real black powder! I have also read that it is easier to clean and less corrosive than Pyrodex (and this gun is a PITA to clean). The fouling with real black powder is so bad that loading is next to impossible with the rifles ramrod and really quite difficult with a range rod too, that is until the ball is halfway down and the fouling is so bad that the batch gets destroyed and the bare ball falls down the bore. Pyrodex patches look fine but the BP ones are solid black and torn up beyond recognition. Swabbing between the shots is a real chore as the patch wants to grab all the fouling on the way out and I have to use pliers to remove the rod (patch is soaked with moose milk or rubbing alcohol). At this point I might just stick with Pyrodex P and deal with the occasional hang fire and more corrosive residue. Should I try polishing the bore with scotch brite? I want a tight fit for accuracy sake so I don't really want to go looser on the patch/ball combo.

Sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any sage advice.

-Bill
Try 777 Minch better than Pyrodex
 

Des52

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Hey there everyone. I am having an issue with a Pedersoli Frontier (cap-lock) I recently picked up in .36. My intention was to use it as a squirrel gun this year but until I can get this issue sorted out, the gun is not of much use. Anyway I started doing some load development using fffg Goex and right off the bat, loading was next to impossible, even with a heavy steel range rod. I wrote it off that the balls I had been using must not be larger than .350" and made an order for some Hornady .350 balls and some .010" ox-yoke patches. Well the next trip out to the range went a lot better, loading was much smoother even without swabbing the bore (I shot over 50 times that session)... The catch is, I was using Pyrodex :eek:. I even used my home cast balls and they loaded just fine too which leads me to the powder.

I would like to use real black for this rifle because well... Its real black powder! I have also read that it is easier to clean and less corrosive than Pyrodex (and this gun is a PITA to clean). The fouling with real black powder is so bad that loading is next to impossible with the rifles ramrod and really quite difficult with a range rod too, that is until the ball is halfway down and the fouling is so bad that the batch gets destroyed and the bare ball falls down the bore. Pyrodex patches look fine but the BP ones are solid black and torn up beyond recognition. Swabbing between the shots is a real chore as the patch wants to grab all the fouling on the way out and I have to use pliers to remove the rod (patch is soaked with moose milk or rubbing alcohol). At this point I might just stick with Pyrodex P and deal with the occasional hang fire and more corrosive residue. Should I try polishing the bore with scotch brite? I want a tight fit for accuracy sake so I don't really want to go looser on the patch/ball combo.

Sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any sage advice.

-Bill
I have a Traditions .36 frontier that I have been shooting for over 40 years. I use 25 grains of 3f Goex, a.18 pillow ticking patch lubed with mink oil for roundball. I up it to 35 for maxi balls also lubed with mink oil. Lube your own so you know what is on it. That is the best way to keep the fouling soft.
 

SmokepoleSam

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Once I started cleaning with water I never had any problems with the patent breech and I've been doing it like this for over 25 years. When I started with BP I only had Sam Fadala's books and while he mentioned water cleaning he preferred non water cleaning so I tried it and clogged up my patent breech because I didn't know I had one. At first I used more powerful caps and it worked, but it acted up again and I used water and haven't had trouble since.
 
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