220 or 320 for barrel browning prep ?

[kyron4]

I plan on rust bluing the barrel of my Hawken project by browning with LMF browning solution then boiling. I assume the 320 will produce a higher sheen finish than 220 , but what are other recommendations or things to consider ? Some say 320 is to fine to get the "bite" you need while other think 220 is to coarse. -Thanks

 

[billraby]

Go with 220.

 

[necchi]

Well it's up to you, 320 wet is pretty easy to do, just be sure to use a good block to keep the flat edges square.
If that finish isn't what your looking for, blocking back to 220 is even easier.
It's that simple,
LMF is pretty easy, there can be a learning curve about using too much, or over applying, but there is enough in a single bottle to do the process to several barrels.
Ya really can't rune a barrel with the stuff, it's too easy to just start over with LMF, so don't worry,, experimenting is good.

 

[Phil Coffins]

You can go finer then 320 and the chemicals will get a ”bite”. It takes a bit more care but both brown or rust blue can be shiny.
64ED00D8-3CD8-42B2-A041-A087E3DA85CE by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[kyron4]

You can go finer then 320 and the chemicals will get a ”bite”. It takes a bit more care but both brown or rust blue can be shiny.
64ED00D8-3CD8-42B2-A041-A087E3DA85CE by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Nice

 

[pacanis]

I've only used LMF for bluing and I went a lot finer than 320. Three sessions and I was done.

 

[64Springer]

No more than 220 if finishing by hand. 150 if I'm finishing on the lathe.

Personally, I like more tooth for my finishes to grab onto.

Those little nooks and crannies keep the finish in place better.

 

[TDM]

I’ve used LMF browning on several barrels finishing up with 400 grit.

 

[Red Owl]

I've done #240, #320, and down to #600. The rust that is formed has a certain texture that is about the same regardless of #320 or finer (IMHO) so why go finer than #320. I agree that the roughness increases surface area and rust. NEVER scrub the surface, just one wipe and if you miss a spot- get it the next coat. In any event I think the #320 gives a little better finish but #240(#220) is also perfectly okay. Try the underside of the barrel and see how you like it, do half 220 and half 320.
The best thing is to always build a "damp box" This can be scrap materials with a lamp inside and some wet rags. Really guarantees a good result.

 

[deerstalkert]

i go 220 and card with 0000 steel wool. gently.
my damp box is the down stairs shower stall. i hand the barrel from the exhaust fan cover.

 

[pacanis]

I use an old aquarium for doing small stuff.

If I brown my KY pistol barrel that's what I'll use.

 

[64Springer]

Browning a Browning.

 

[1BadDart]

I used 320 with Danglers to brown my .40, no issues at all.

 

[Scota@4570]

For ML barrels I draw file then blend with maroon sctochbrite. After browning file strokes are not or only slightly visible, like original guns often are.

I do remove the file marks on locks. I take sandpaper to about 150 then blend with scotchbrite.

Over polishing does not look right to me. You will only find a super hihg polish on Weatherby rifles and such. I think they looks tacky. It has no place on a ML for sure.

If you like the soft eggshell look, and I do, try polishing to 320 then bead blasting to blend. That looks really sharp with a slow rust blue or brown.

 

[kyron4]

Thanks for all the input guys, it's really informative and helpful.