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1st time figuring out a load

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I'm in the camp with those that see that the weave of the linen is too loose. Did you wash the linen in hot water to remove sizing and that can tighten the weave. Linen doesn't crush much. I like a patch that compresses to the depth of the rifling to somewhat minimize blow by. Did the Emigs suggest a ball size and patch for the rifle?

I would also shorten the short leg of the short starter to set the ball exactly flush at the muzzle. I too believe that the short starter can contribute to patch cutting at the muzzle. If you do shorten the short leg, be sure to use a round cutter to make the tip concave and of a diameter that is similar to the ball size.

A trip to JoAnn's Fabrics is probably in order to get a 1/4 yard of the #40 Cotton Drill cloth in the Utility Cloth section of the store. Check the web site. Almost any day you can get a coupon for a 50% discount. Wash the cloth in hot water and dry it at high heat. You want that sizing out and you want the threads to full out and slightly shrink to tighten the weave. In the store you will get a slip micrometer reading of about 0.017" and after washing the thickness could be as much as 0.020" and compress to 0.012" The crushed measurement with sizing in the fabric will be misleading. The washed cloth will hold the patch lubrication better with the sizing removed.

Just for grins I would measure the barrel to find out what the land to land measurement is. You may find a ball of 0.535" diameter will work. But then your 0.530" ball requires a short starter, so that's probably a good size.
 
Glen,
Sorry so long gettin back to you. I use a variation of Moose Milk. Water soluble oil, Murphy's, water.
Load starts with one whack of a short starter, and patch is cut at the muzzle.
I load out of a bag, with the wood rod under the barrel. No range rod.
Shoot all day without having to run a cleaning patch. (Unless I have to wait too long to reload) Then one quick wipe to soften the fouling, and continue on.
I think I would find a new sport if I had to run cleaning patches every shot. Keep it simple.
As I said before, a Rice barrel really doesn't need a break in. You just need the right patch, ball, powder, combo.
 
Sorry for the absence. This holiday season is catching up with me quick, too many pokers in the fire. So I went back to the range 2 weeks ago. This time I used the pillow ticking .014 with the moose milk / Dry patch mixture. After 4 seperate groups of 5 shots each I was seeing pretty much the same grouping results as before. So I decided to concentrate on just getting a nice looking patch first then worrying about the load. I switched from the MM dry patch to mink oil. It got a little better but was still cutting the patches slightly and tearing them all to hell / possibly getting blow by. After another set of 4, things were still not looking great and I was at the end of my range time for the day. As I was picking up I vaguely remembered someone saying something about 2 different types of ticking..pillow and mattress and I noticed I had some pre-cut ticking round patches in my box. I had bought these a while back for some reason or another but when I felt them they were significantly more beefy. Measured them and they were .018 thick. I had a "why the hell not" moment and decided to see if I could get in a couple of shots before I had to leave. I loaded with these round pre-cuts and some mink oil and 75gn of powder which had the best (and I use that term very loosely) results out of the loads. They were a TIGHT fit, no way in hell they could be started without a short starter. I was able to get 2 shots off before I had to leave and low and behold they were almost on top of each other. After picking up I was able to recover both patches and they were leaps and bounds nicer than my previous patches and no holes. Granted this was only 2 shots but I think I am getting closer. So if I had to guess it seems like it was a need of a thicker patch and slicker lube. bottom to top was my progression (patch from 1st trip out, patch from 1st part of this trip, Pre-cut patch from the 2 shots). Thanks for all the great advice I will make sure to keep up the reports as I move on.
 

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Please stop fighting this. You're getting close. I don't know what MM dry patch is, but that would be my idea of the problem.
Use wet MM, and those patches.
Try this....., .535 ball, MM wet .018" patches. Start with about 60grains of powder and work your way up till you get the smallest group.
It'll work!
 
Please stop fighting this. You're getting close. I don't know what MM dry patch is, but that would be my idea of the problem.
Use wet MM, and those patches.
Try this....., .535 ball, MM wet .018" patches. Start with about 60grains of powder and work your way up till you get the smallest group.
It'll work!
Hey Flintandsteel, I don't really feel like I am fighting anything at all. :) Let me explain myself a little better. MM (Moose Milk) dry is the patch lube method that Dutch Schultz recommends in his system that is praised by many folks here on the forums. Seems like it has worked really well for some so that was my starting place. Folks here suggested the ticking instead of the linen so that was my first thing I changed. Saw some improvement so I changed to the mink oil (also suggested here in this post by quite a few folks) saw a little improvement. The patch thickness was the next thing as it was also suggested here. I had thought I was going to have to order thicker ticking but found some in my box and decided to squeeze in the 2 extra shots for the day. That seemed to be the biggest improvement and I would have continued with that but ran out of time. I have been trying to only change 1 thing at a time to try and hone things in and solve the issue. Next time I go out I will give an honest try to the thicker patch combo that I ended with 2 weeks ago as like I said the 2 shots were almost on top of each other. If that seems to hold true I will then do the load creep to get the smallest group I can. I don't wan't to move to a .535 ball just yet because as I said with my barrel the .530 and .018 patch was pretty dang tight as it is.
 
If you like swabbing the bore EVERY shot..... continue with the dry lube. Personally, I don't like to work that hard.
Like I said before, I load out of the bag, no range rod, and I don't have a loading problem.
I also don't swab between shots. I can shoot continuously without a cleaning patch, UNLESS, I get delayed reloading. A wet lube literally cleans the bore with each shot.
The reason you're having trouble loading, is the dry lube.
Any new commercial barrel today, will pretty much shoot well with a .005" undersized ball, with a .017" to .020" patch.
I believe Rice's site recommends .010" undersized ball, and .015" patch as a starting point.
I hope this helps. That's all I got.
 
Flintandsteel, You are correct the dry lube didn't seem to work for me at all. Based on the info you posted from Rice, where I ended up on my last outing with the .530 ball and .018 patch using the mink oil seems pretty spot on with your suggestions. Thanks for all the great advice. :)
 
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