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1861 Bridesberg Resurrection

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Capnball

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A few years ago a neighbor of mine asked me to do a few repairs to his shed. Roof, corners, doors and paint. In the process of doing the work on the doors I could see the muzzles of two guns in the corner. Both were civil war era guns. When I asked about them my neighbor said he meant to turn them into the police during a gun buy back program. After all, both guns were obsolete and in very bad shape. I said both guns should be in a museum or hanging up in the house some place at least. I finished work on the shed and my neighbor and I were settling up and asked if I'd like to have the muskets. He didn't have to ask twice. The first gun was an 1847 conversion from flintlock to percussion. On the surface, this looked to be the better of the two as all of the parts were there. Upon closer inspection, the barrel had a curve to it, the foregrip was cracked lengthwise and the nipple bolster was gone presumably from excessive dry firing.
The second gun and the subject of this build was an 1861 Bridesberg contract rifle built in 1862. The Bridesberg for all intensive purposes was a Springfield. It's nearly identical in every way being built from a government design. There is a slight difference somewhere in the back of the barrel but everything else is indistinguishable from a Springfield 1861. The big difference between this gun and the 1847 is this gun had been "sporterized" at some point in it's history and not done well I might add. The blairing things that jumped right out was every part not 100% needed to make the weapon fire was gone. Including 7" of the barrel brutally hacksawed at a noticeable angle. More than 20" or walnut foregrip was hacked away along with the nose cap, two bands, retaining springs, front and rear sights, front sling swivel, butt plate along with all the inletting associated with the butt plate and finally, the ram rod was gone. The original finish was stripped from the stock and something skin to show polish was used to change the way it looked. This was not my first choice for a restoration project. I'll try and post short snippets along with photos of the build as it progressed.
 

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The first thing I did was determine what I had and more importantly, what I didn't have. I completely disassembled the weapon and inspected each part and determined what was salvageable. Next I thoroughly cleaned and oiled everything metal. The very first thing that needed attention was the clean out screw that had just been hammered over. If I couldn't get that screw out, I could just stop right there. The touch hole was blocked with debris and nothing I could do could clear it short of getting that clean out screw out of the bolster and physically cleaning out the hole to the chamber. After much finagling and determination, I got the remnants of the screw out. At some point in the guns life, somebody cross threaded the screw. I was able to drill the threads out clean. Then remove the blockage from the touch hole. Last I resurfaced the bolster flat and cut modern threads into the bolster. I machined the head of the new stainless screw to match the original as close as possible. The last thing I had to do was fix the muzzle. There was nothing I could do about the 7" of missing barrel but the gods smiled on me and as luck would have it, after cutting a new crown the gun was the exact length as a two band Springfield or Colt. I know there were no two band Bridesbergs but there were plenty of Colts and Springfield's out there to use ass reference. The purists are surly losing their collective minds at this point but you have to remember, this gun was already defaced beyond an accurate restoration and probably would have went to the crusher. Nothing I could have done to it could make it worse then it already was. Stay tuned for more if this build. Leave a note if you like it.
 

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A few years ago a neighbor of mine asked me to do a few repairs to his shed. Roof, corners, doors and paint. In the process of doing the work on the doors I could see the muzzles of two guns in the corner. Both were civil war era guns. When I asked about them my neighbor said he meant to turn them into the police during a gun buy back program. After all, both guns were obsolete and in very bad shape. I said both guns should be in a museum or hanging up in the house some place at least. I finished work on the shed and my neighbor and I were settling up and asked if I'd like to have the muskets. He didn't have to ask twice. The first gun was an 1847 conversion from flintlock to percussion. On the surface, this looked to be the better of the two as all of the parts were there. Upon closer inspection, the barrel had a curve to it, the foregrip was cracked lengthwise and the nipple bolster was gone presumably from excessive dry firing.
The second gun and the subject of this build was an 1861 Bridesberg contract rifle built in 1862. The Bridesberg for all intensive purposes was a Springfield. It's nearly identical in every way being built from a government design. There is a slight difference somewhere in the back of the barrel but everything else is indistinguishable from a Springfield 1861. The big difference between this gun and the 1847 is this gun had been "sporterized" at some point in it's history and not done well I might add. The blairing things that jumped right out was every part not 100% needed to make the weapon fire was gone. Including 7" of the barrel brutally hacksawed at a noticeable angle. More than 20" or walnut foregrip was hacked away along with the nose cap, two bands, retaining springs, front and rear sights, front sling swivel, butt plate along with all the inletting associated with the butt plate and finally, the ram rod was gone. The original finish was stripped from the stock and something skin to show polish was used to change the way it looked. This was not my first choice for a restoration project. I'll try and post short snippets along with photos of the build as it progressed.
Nice project! Fun, educational, good posting!
 
That was always the plan depending on the condition as the restoration proceeded. If nothing else, it would be a very presentable wall hanger. I just hated seeing a firearm with the presumed provinance just being ground up by time and thrown away. It's truly a piece of American history.
Neil
 
The next thing I had to do was to verify the integrity of the barrel. The bore scope showed a large amount of debris in the champer and a coating of surface rust all the way from the muzzle to the breech plug. I fashioned a long box out of cardboard and lined it with a heavy duty lawn and leaf bag. Then I submerged the barrel in non-toxic rust remover called Krud Kutter. After some internet research I found this product to be the least caustic while still being effective. It worked very well without doing any additional damage to the original carbon steel. Another view of the bore scope showed decent rifling. There was some expected pitting in the chamber area but nothing excessive. I used bore cleaner on a brass brush and ramrod fitted to a power drill to clean any lead or powder fouling and after a good swabbing and seasoning the barrel looked good enough to shoot. Just to be sure, I installed the clean out screw and the old percussion nipple (plugged solid) and rigged up a tire valve to a 1/2" OD expansion stopper for the muzzle end. My compressor pumps up to 250 PSI so I pressurized the barrel then submerged it in soapy water over night. This would verify the bolster attachment, clean out screw and breech plug seals. It all checked out great. I cleaned the barrel and restored the original "bright" finish using progressively finer wet dry sand papers untill the finish was acceptable. It looks great in the photo but it's actually more of a buffed silver look. Now I could start buying parts. If the barrel was shot out or compromised I could just order what I needed from any company that makes reproduction parts. As the barrel was serviceable I decided to buy period correct parts and accoutrements for an 1861 rifled musket (general description for all weapons of this design built by a variety of arms manufacturers during the civil war) I started hitting every show within 200 miles of my home. A site from one show, a barrel ring from another. Piece by piece untill I had everything. The most difficult part to source was the front site as it's welded to the barrel. So for this tiny part I capitulated, and purchased the reproduction part. I used the barrel as my threshold for polishing. I disassembled the lock completely, cleaned and oiled everything lightly then polished the lock plate and hammer as much as I dared so as not to remove any markings. In fact I even taped off any markings so I wouldn't deface them further then they already were.
 

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Very cool. I found a rust removal method that is very useful if you have time to let it work. I found this from some automotive sites and have tried it with amazing results. A 9:1 water to molasses mix. Parts submerged in this mix will come out with all rust completely removed. The mix ferments and the fermentation uses all the O2 dissolved in the water and then attacks the FeO2 and brakes it down. The result is iron powder on the part, some slime and smell....not for in the house. It does not touch the original iron or steel. After you rinse it, the metal needs to be coated with an oil or you will get flash rust due to pure uncoated metal in the air. This is not a tall tale.
 
Really nice work. It's nice to see someone take the time to restore one of these correctly and to shooting condition too. I have been shooting a "61 Bridesburg 2 bander for quite a number of years now and I really like the '61s over the later Springfields. I had to have Bobby Hoyt lengthen my barrel 3/4" to make it N-SSA legal and I had him reline it too, 1 in 60", .576" bore. If you need a forearm repair/replacement section I know someone who makes quality ones. It looks like you can splice under the rear band but he can make them longer if you need to splice behind the band. PM me and I can get you his contact information. I've been working on a '63 Springfield that was in about the same shape as yours except I need to splice the stock over an inch behind the bottom band. Again Hoyt lengthened and lined the barrel as well as adding a front sight. I should have it finished in a few years at the rate I'm progressing. :)
 
Very cool. I found a rust removal method that is very useful if you have time to let it work. I found this from some automotive sites and have tried it with amazing results. A 9:1 water to molasses mix. Parts submerged in this mix will come out with all rust completely removed. The mix ferments and the fermentation uses all the O2 dissolved in the water and then attacks the FeO2 and brakes it down. The result is iron powder on the part, some slime and smell....not for in the house. It does not touch the original iron or steel. After you rinse it, the metal needs to be coated with an oil or you will get flash rust due to pure uncoated metal in the air. This is not a tall tale.


LOL, if you notice in the pictures the granite counters in my kitchen. I had to make sure nothing went wrong in the house. The non-toxic, non-,caustic chemical make up was a real selling point. It also left a protective coating on the parts till I could get to them for polishing and finishing. The Mrs was never the wiser.
 
Really nice work. It's nice to see someone take the time to restore one of these correctly and to shooting condition too. I have been shooting a "61 Bridesburg 2 bander for quite a number of years now and I really like the '61s over the later Springfields. I had to have Bobby Hoyt lengthen my barrel 3/4" to make it N-SSA legal and I had him reline it too, 1 in 60", .576" bore. If you need a forearm repair/replacement section I know someone who makes quality ones. It looks like you can splice under the rear band but he can make them longer if you need to splice behind the band. PM me and I can get you his contact information. I've been working on a '63 Springfield that was in about the same shape as yours except I need to splice the stock over an inch behind the bottom band. Again Hoyt lengthened and lined the barrel as well as adding a front sight. I should have it finished in a few years at the rate I'm progressing. :)

Well stay tuned for the rest of this build. I hope you'll be very satisfied with the end result.
 
Being happy with the process of making the barrel viable then bringing up the remaining hardware to an acceptable finish I moved on the the stock. Besides the terrible state of the finish and 150 years or dings, dangs, dents and scratches their were two very big problems with the stock. All of the inletting to the butt of the stock associated with the butt plate had been cut away as well as a good portion of the cheek and sanded smooth. Presumably this was to make the weapon seem more modern. Also some 20" of the foregrip was cut off. I started sourcing a new piece of black walnut. There's a mill not far from here so I stopped in to talk to the owner. I told him what I was looking for and what I was doing. He didn't say a word, he turned and motioned me to follow him. This place just Mills your materials to order, they don't stock anything but there was a pile of scrap standing in a corner. He just reached into the corner and pulled out a piece of wood very rough cut. He said, "I've been saving this for just such an occasion. It's been here longer than me. The blade that cut it is older then anything we have here so it has to be older than 100 years." It was 4' long and an actual 2"X4" it was black walnut and the grain was very tight like old growth wood. I asked what he wanted for it, he said "just show me what you make out of it" we shook on it and I was off to see if I could make this piece of wood live again.
I started by finding the center of the stock and making a jig to hold that center line level and square with my table saw. The plan was to cut the hump off the back of the stock flat then scab a new piece of walnut to the stock then reshape it to allow me to inlet the new but plate. After the scary cut was made I set about cleaning the stock using a steam iron and old t shirts. This not only removed old stain, oil, and wax but it also removed a surprising amount of dents. I was surprised at how really nice the wood looked under 150 years of wear and tare. Next I cut the piece I needed for the scab just a bit wider, longer and thicker than it needed to be. I glued and clamped it in place for a couple days. After that I started shaping the stock back to its original shape using hand files, sand paper and untold amounts of elbow grease. The inletting for the butt plate was a whole other beast but in the end I was very happy with the results.
I'll tackle the foregrip next!
 

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Here's some background on the Jenks family. They produced firearms for the federal government for years under the "Bridesberg" name. BTW, Bridesberg is the name of a small part of Philadelphia where both the factory and family mansion resided. The factories are long gone but the Jenks Mansion is still there as a private residence. Enjoy!

https://www.militaryfactory.com/smallarms/detail.asp?smallarms_id=346
 
I was happy with the stock restoration up to this point so I took a stab at the 20+" of foregrip that was missing. Whoever cut the stock had enough sense to leave one band and just enough wood to use as an end pattern. I also used that band to hide the connection between the old stock and the new foregrip. I ran a piece of walnut off on the table saw then planed it to smooth it out and square it up. Next I built a jig out of plywood and some aluminum 1"angle. This would be clamped to the drill press deck and used as a make shift mill track. Next I got a carbide 3/4" half round router bit then cranked up the drill press as fast it would go. Even at it's fastest speed it was still technically too slow for the bit so I compensated for that by slowing the feed to a crawl and taking the smallest possible bite out of the wood. It took a bunch of passes but hey, I'm retired and I've got time! Also, rather then extend the drill press head, I locked it in place and raised the deck a fraction of an inch each pass. After cutting the smallest diameter of the barrel (muzzle end) I flipped the piece over and did the same process with a 1/4" half round bit for the ram rod groove. After roughing out the big stuff I set about inletting the barrel from end to end. (It's wider towards the chamber.) The barrel groove shaper was the only dedicated gunsmithing tool I bought. There was just nothing out there that could do the job easier or faster within my budget.
I started by inletting the first band completely then using that as my gauge to cut the rest of the foregrip. Next I established the second band location and filed, sanded and filed and sanded till I could slide the second band from the front completely into place. Then I cut the recesses for the retaining springs with a 1/4" chisel I made from an old drill bit.
I fit the nose cap and cut the cap itself to fit the barrel correctly as well. The new location of the nose cap moved it 7" back from it's original location so the barrel was slightly wider. Some filing and sanding fixed that as well. I attached the to new foregrip to the old stock using wood pins and glue and I used the barrel to hold everything in place till it set up correctly.
 

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Ok, we're in the home stretch now! I have all the parts and I have a decent stock. I'm no wood finisher by any stretch so I decided to just stick to what they used in 1861. I mean, it seems to be working so far! I looked up what the armorer used and I gave it a shot. It actually worked pretty well but it really highlighted the new wood, so to match the new parts closer I mixed some artists oil based paint to the boiled linseed oil. It took a couple coats to get it right but it was worth the effort. After mud sanding and hand rubbing BLO into the stock a dozen or more times I let it dry as much as it wanted to in the August heat in my garage. The last thing I did was to use a good paste wax over the finish and it really made everything look great. I had to solder a new front site on to the barrel and that was it. The only thing left was to test fire it. I just fired the weapon a couple days ago. I was hitting a 2'X3' paper target at 75 yards. No real groups to speak of but hitting the paper consistently. In fact, I don't think I missed the paper at all. Let me know what you think!
 

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Very cool stuff @Capnball ! I can't wait until I hit the cosmic lottery and find/get gifted a cool old rifle like that! Its amazing that it was sitting there, and was discovered by someone who had the skills to get that dog hunting again. Looks great!
 
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