Over 11 years between posts. Timely.
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1860 cylinder gap
- Thread starter 54mountain
- Start date
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Yep, I saw that, but 11 years later folks are still dealing with the same issues. Most threads are repeats of old issues, but new people. There is the value.
Kevin Berry
32 Cal
Thank you. I'll keep these numbers in mind in case I find .010 is too much and decide to file the lower part of the barrel piece down to close the gap, but at least I know someone else likes .010 so hopefully this will be okay. My Remington 1858 has almost no gap, so I have that to compare with when I shoot this 1860 Army with a .010 gap for the first time soon. Maybe this gap will add to the shock and awe when I shoot it!
Thank you. I'll keep these numbers in mind in case I find .010 is too much and decide to file the lower part of the barrel piece down to close the gap, but at least I know someone else likes .010 so hopefully this will be okay. My Remington 1858 has almost no gap, so I have that to compare with when I shoot this 1860 Army with a .010 gap for the first time soon. Maybe this gap will add to the shock and awe when I shoot it!
How old is your Pietta? .010" Is rather large. Somewhere around 2011 / 2012 Pietta corrected the short arbor length (which has been a well known problem (for quite some time) with all the reproductions from the beginning).
Do you drive the wedge in until it stops or just until the spring clears the off side? Keep in mind, the wedge isn't an adjustment piece, it's ment to be driven in to lock the two assemblies together. I would have to agree with Ed C, I set the "endshake" (which is what we're talking about) at .0025" - .003". This not only is much more efficient and keeps your revolver (and shooter) much cleaner, but keeps the cylinder from hammering the assemblies each time it's fired. Loose wedges/ too much endshake is how the open-top platform "self destructs".
Mike
Kevin Berry
32 Cal
Hi Mike,
I just bought the Pietta a couple weeks ago new. The .010 measurement is with the hammer up. My feeler gauges only go down to .008 and this won't fit at full cock, but at full cock upside down it'll hold a dollar bill in and I have to pull on the bill to get it out. I'm guessing the recommended .010 measurement in the discussions above is with the hammer up. Regarding the wedge, I filed it so I can insert the wedge 1/2 way through the barrel. It just looks better, and there's less to hang up on a holster this way. The spring is beyond the far side of the barrel, but still holds the wedge from being removed unless I forcibly push it through the barrel. Some people say the wedge should be able to be pushed back out without a hammer, just two thumbs, which is how this is. I prefer not having to grab a hammer to take apart this revolver. I did remove the keeper screw so that the wedge would seat 1/2 way through the barrel. I'll watch the wedge with every shot for awhile to make sure thumb pressure is good enough.
Kevin
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Kevin Berry
32 Cal
@45D Thank you. I have no interest in conversion cylinders for replica guns. What is the point of putting a modern engine in a Model T Ford?
I got new feeler gauges and the 0.0015 gauge won't go through at full cock. Up to 0.010 fits at no cock. I'll have to watch and see over time if this 0.010 cylinder gap allows the cylinder to rattle back and forth with firing so much that the gun is getting damaged more than what a 0.020 to 0.030 cylinder gap at no cock would allow. If the 0.010 gap looks like it's causing trouble, I can file down the arbor end and barrel receiver over the two holes to close the cylinder gap and minimize further damage.
For your first question, because they're fun and historically correct.
As far as your numbers, they seem all o er the place. Your "endshake" should be the same no matter what position the hammer is in. With the arbor limiting the barrel placement, it shouldn't ( can't) move. So, I don't really know what to tell you as far as helping. I'm not sure you really understand the situation.
Shoot it some and see what happens . . .
Mike
Kevin Berry
32 Cal
I haven't watched it yet but Mr. Thomas "wings" a lot of his "info" . I've never seen him say anything about the arbor setup on open top revolvers but then again I learned what I'm doing long before I found out about BT. There's a LOT of "info" you can't trust at all on the internet.
Most will teach you how to screw up your revolver!!
Mike
The endshake remains the same. The difference is the best time to measure it is when the gun is at half cock because at that time you do not have hand pressure pushing on the cylinder or the bolt acting on it. Push the cylinder back towards the recoil shield at full cock or hammer down and you will get the same endshake measurements. I just did it on my 1851.
Working on your own guns can be very rewarding if you have the basic tools. The first "tool" you need is a thorough understanding of the gun, each part, how it works, what it does, and how they interact with each other. Next you need some mechanical experience and skill. Then you need the proper actual tools and work area. And finally you need to be discerning when viewing internet "fixes" and advice especially when it comes to removing metal from a gun. Very easy to fix something til its broke.
Kevin Berry
32 Cal
Thanks for your comments. I got my 1860 Army snub nose new for a great price, so I'm not too concerned about learning and making mistakes. I scratched the cylinder on my deburring wheel. That helped the gun feel broken in. I sanded the breech by hand to remove an imperfection and realized I didn't end up sanding as perpendicular to the barrel as I thought I was doing, so as soon as my face cutter arrives in the mail, I'll fix that. If I'm careful I'll still be able to keep my 0.010 cylinder gap. Some say 0.010 is ideal. Others say 0.025 is ideal. I'll shoot soon in the mountains when the snow melts and see how much shock and awe I get out of 0.010. If it looks cool, and the ball travels fast without dropping to the ground too soon, I'll keep it. Otherwise, I'll close the cylinder gap. I clean my guns after I shoot them so I don't care if there's a little more fouling with 0.010 than 0.025. Modern guns are fun, but I think replica guns are even more fun because they require more hands on attention. Also, the case hardened look of this 1860 Army is absolutely beautiful!
Attachments
Looks nice!
Just another mention, the main reason for close endshake is to mitigate the tendency for the cyl to slide on the arbor like a hammer to beat the barrel and recoil ring. There is a big difference between .010" you say yours is compared to. 0025".
The "clean" part is just a nice bonus.
Mike
Just another mention, the main reason for close endshake is to mitigate the tendency for the cyl to slide on the arbor like a hammer to beat the barrel and recoil ring. There is a big difference between .010" you say yours is compared to. 0025".
The "clean" part is just a nice bonus.
Mike
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
Let wind the clock back to the 80s. I bought a CVA 1858 revolver and the first time I fired it all 6 came out at the same time.
I contacted CVA that asked what the gap was, I told them .20. The said return it for another. It was to be .002. They had a run out problem and mine was one of the one effected.
I contacted CVA that asked what the gap was, I told them .20. The said return it for another. It was to be .002. They had a run out problem and mine was one of the one effected.
Jim in Wisconsin
40 Cal
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2021
- Messages
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- 372
Decimal points are important little things!
If you like shock 'n awe you need to get a Walker and throw about 50 grains of FFFg in it.Thank you. I'll keep these numbers in mind in case I find .010 is too much and decide to file the lower part of the barrel piece down to close the gap, but at least I know someone else likes .010 so hopefully this will be okay. My Remington 1858 has almost no gap, so I have that to compare with when I shoot this 1860 Army with a .010 gap for the first time soon. Maybe this gap will add to the shock and awe when I shoot it!
Thank you. I'll keep these numbers in mind in case I find .010 is too much and decide to file the lower part of the barrel piece down to close the gap, but at least I know someone else likes .010 so hopefully this will be okay. My Remington 1858 has almost no gap, so I have that to compare with when I shoot this 1860 Army with a .010 gap for the first time soon. Maybe this gap will add to the shock and awe when I shoot it!
