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1860 Army Colt .44

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What brand is your '60? My Uberti holds .451 balls fairly tight and .454s just right, with a nice lead ring off of each. I haven't tried .457s. :hmm:
 
I got a pietta. I just started the whole cap and ball pistol thing about 2 months ago.

Ive found that the recommended .454 balls dont get a consistant circle of lead sheared off them on loading. So im gonna try the .457 size.
 
For a 58 Remingtion a 7.62x39 case will work for a powder measure or a 38sp case full of powder and a 40cal case full of grits will also work.

Mike56
 
BenMock said:
Hey guys, I really want to shoot my new colt, but I am still gearing up for the sport. I got .445 balls, pyrodex RS, [ffg] (no real BP available here) and .018 patches, pre-lubed, and #11 caps, I have already 'dry' fired the cylanders with caps only. ( just like a little kids cap gun )
Here is the big questions:how much powder do I use, and how do I measure it?

No patches, and change that Pyrodex RS [for rifles] to Pyrodex P [for pistols].

Opinions differ on this site, but you'll be advised by most to use a chamber sealer, like Bore-Butter, over the loaded chamber.

It keeps the fouling soft, and some say it also stops chain-fires.

Others don't.

I've been shooting BP revolvers for over forty years and I've never seen one, but many folks here have seen millions of 'em - so they say.

tac
ROA
Colt Walker #1816
 
Russ T Frizzen said:
You're O.K. as long as the ball is seated down on the powder. You want to avoid detonation like the plague. The longer jump to the throat usually has a detrimental effect on accuracy though.

Uncompressed Pyrodex with an airgap will go phut.

The ball might not even clear the barrel - a VERY dangerous condition if you then fire another shot.

Pyrodex loads MUST be compressed to wolr correctly - read the manual.

tac
 
I have used 30-35 grains of Pyrodex RS in an 1860 Colt clone with great success, cannot vouch for the accuracy or reliability of lighter loads. I always use greased wads so that load ends up compressed somewhat.
 
DanChamberlain said:
Just as an aside, I like to shoot my C&B revolvers in the basement from time to time, using "wax" balls I cast, and 5 grains of 777.

I can get 10 shots before the smoke makes breathing difficult :grin:

But, at 10 steps, I can hit a soda can every shot! It's loud, smoky and a ton of fun.

Dan
:haha:


You just might need a respirator, and an oxygen tank ta boot :thumbsup: Maybe not, that might explode :grin:
 
DanChamberlain said:
Just as an aside, I like to shoot my C&B revolvers in the basement from time to time, using "wax" balls I cast, and 5 grains of 777.

I can get 10 shots before the smoke makes breathing difficult :grin:

But, at 10 steps, I can hit a soda can every shot! It's loud, smoky and a ton of fun.

Dan
Been breathing a lot of that smoke, have we Dan? Explains a lot... :hmm:

:rotf: Just kidding.
 
I wanted to say thanks for all the good starter advice. I printed the list and got all geared up. Adjustable powder measure, FFFg pyrodex P, bore butter, capper, and all that stuff... I am headed to the range now.
:hatsoff:
I'll let you know how it goes!
 
I think I need some filler under the 457's. I set the ball down on top of the powder (25gr) and it went pretty deep.

I kinda feel like Jesse James!
 
Sounds like your off to a good start.

Although many will say the balls should be right up towards the chamber mouth that really isn't necessary as long as the balls seated on the powder.

Yes, it gives better groups if they are loaded with some filler to bring the balls up towards the chamber mouth but it isn't a matter of safety.

With this in mind, before you start messing with fillers, I suggest that you try a few different powder loads and just have fun for now.
After all, you can always blame widely spaced shots on a "lack of filler" if anyone asks. :grin:

Later on you can mess with the fine points of loading like adding fillers to bring your group sizes down. :thumbsup:
 

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