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1851 powder suggestions?

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Sine_Timore

32 Cal
Joined
May 25, 2020
Messages
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Hello everyone, new here and to black powder firearms also. I'm not new to firearms though. I own several of the black evil rifles.... So, that being said I have a .36 cal Pietta 1851 Navy steel frame headed my way. I've got all the basics to get started with except powder. I've heard black powder can be very corrosive so I started looking at substitutes and that is where all the confusion started. I've seen completely contradictory information. Some people say the substitutes are more corrosive, some say less, and other yet say there is no difference. I'm just shooting for fun but I want what is going to be the easiest on my pistol. I will be cleaning after every trip to the range just like I do my AR's. As touchy as a dirty AR can be I know how important cleaning is. Not to open a can of worms but any suggestions?
 
Black powder is not corrosive, I believe Pyrodex a black powder substitute is. The old time caps were corrosive but not the ones we now use of modern manufacture. I have left my rifle dirty for a few days on occasion ( I do live in a dry climate) had have cleaned it with cold water with no ill effect. If you leave a gun dirty for an extended period it would rust as the fouling is hygroscopic (attracts moisture) . Use plenty of water pump grease in the guts of your pistol as it will help with the odd cap getting caught inside. I just strip my cylinder out, and barrel off, under the cold water tap with a bore brush then dry cloth patches for both bore and cylinder. I will sit them over the plate rack on the wood stove if its on to dry right out. A bit of olive oil on the wool mop in both chambers and bore , water pump grease on the cylinder arbor the re assemble and wipe over with a dry rag, then an oily rag. About every 6 months or if having trouble with the odd fired cap getting caught in the guts of the pistol, I will do a full strip and clean and them re assemble with a lot of water pump grease which as I said helps catch any spent caps before the go right in and jam the pistol
 
Welcome! And welcome to the world of contradictions. I have used Pyrodex P for years with no problems with revolvers. The fact of the matter is after firing any BP or substitutes one needs to rigorously clean the revolver. Hot water, soap, and the use of something such as ballistol or any gun oil to coat all surfaces afterward.

It's almost like the current pandemic: washing, and washing, and sanitizer (ballistol or oil).

Regards,

Jim
 
Hello everyone, new here and to black powder firearms also. I'm not new to firearms though. I own several of the black evil rifles.... So, that being said I have a .36 cal Pietta 1851 Navy steel frame headed my way. I've got all the basics to get started with except powder. I've heard black powder can be very corrosive so I started looking at substitutes and that is where all the confusion started. I've seen completely contradictory information. Some people say the substitutes are more corrosive, some say less, and other yet say there is no difference. I'm just shooting for fun but I want what is going to be the easiest on my pistol. I will be cleaning after every trip to the range just like I do my AR's. As touchy as a dirty AR can be I know how important cleaning is. Not to open a can of worms but any suggestions?
Hot water and soap are your black powder pistols friend.

SM
 
Where it gets confusing is the point at which you have corrosive materials in contact with the parts of your firearm that will rust. As @Heelerau stated, black powder is not corrosive. Nor are most of the substitutes. That's why firearms can be loaded for long periods of time and they don't rust. It is the by products of shooting, fouling, that are corrosive. Pyrodex fouling is perhaps the most insidious of the corrosive fouling. Pyrodex fouling is not as apparent as black powder fouling, but is known for causing the most damage if not removed soon after shooting. The good news is that proper cleaning will address these corrosive fouling issues. So, as soon as you have finished shooting for the day, it is time to clean, dry, lubricate and inhibit rust. There are lots of threads on proper cleaning on the Forum. There are some cleaning methods that seem contradictory and that can be confusing. While methods may seem to be contradictory, they all have the same end result, a clean firearm. All of them use the clean, dry, lubricate and apply rust inhibitor process. There may be different ingredients and temperatures, but the result is the same.
 
Here in dank ol' UK a fellow shooter virtually destroyed his brand-new Ruger Old Army - a revolver that cost him way north of a thousand dollars at the time he bought it, by NOT cleaning it after a session with Pyrodex. He left it, he admitted to me later, about a week or so before suddenly remembering....

That formerly immaculate bore was pitted from end to end, but the area of the forcing cone was appalling. No amount of scrubbing with anything could recover that bore, just clean up what was left - it looked like an acid attack. Oh, wait. It WAS an acid attack

He kept the gun, which is unsellable TTTT, and it still shoots quite well, all things considered, but it's an expensive reminder that the products of combustion of BP are water-soluble, but those of the subs are not necessarily anywhere near as friendly to any grade of steel.
 
To the Original Poster,
Long story short, at rest (before burning) real black or substitute will not burn a hole through your gun, you knew that anyway, after burning they both can/will corrode your gun if not cleaned soon after use, repeat- properly cleaned soon after use, for many people it come down to what is available in your area if you intend to only shoot a few times per year locally is probably best to avoid shipping/hazmat or bulk ordering, both will serve you well.
 
Now that we have kicked the corrosion can down the road, we can answer the real question, "What is the best powder?" In my opinion, the best is real black powder in 3fg granulation. For fun it can be GOEX. But a lot depends on what powders are available in your area. Due to some regulations, black powder may not be readily available and the substitutes become the only choice. Pyrodex will work as will 777. With all powders, cleaning is a necessary task that must not be posphoned.
 
I'm a firm believer in WINDEX W/ AMMONIA D to neutralize the combustion acid. I get the cheap stuff, and dump 1/3 cup or so in the boiling quart of water in my cheap-o electric coffee pot, and pour it down the bore until the barrel is Steaming Hot. Then swab, wipe down, and oil. Then I punch the bore with an oily rag for 3 days after, just like we learned from Dad so very long ago. Matter of fact, I still shoot his Hatfield Squirrel Rifle on occasion. RIP, Dad.
 
Round and round and round we go, is there a sticky for cleaning.
Dawn dish soap with warm water in the kitchen sink, bore brush, patches, clean water, patches, fresh clean water and patches, dry patches, spray with lanolin and 90+% isopropyl alcohol mix everywhere, done.

Powder, GOEX/ Graf's Goex is most available, Swiss is cleaner (to me) and peppy , Subs = 777 is peppy like Swiss and clean-ish, P/dex is dirty and like Graf's Goex.
 
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I've used both Goex 3f and Pyrodex P with success in cap and ball revolvers. I prefer real black powder, but will burn Pyrodex too. A cap and ball revolver is good way to burn Pyrodex up without ignition problems etc. It still goes bang and is fun.
 
Sine Timore,
Over the years I ran upon reoccurring rust. Clean really good and then days later, 😝rust color. Maddening.
And I think maybe that over the years living in various parts of the country it was water chemistry.
Just throwing that out there as something to think about when you know you got it pin clean and color appears on your test patches a few days later.
And yeah, go check again after it's been cleaned. Just to be sure.
 
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