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Could be the nut that holds the stock is the problem...

Just to be a pain, I was close friends with Dutch since the late 70's and have used his system since then. The wipe for accuracy has to be done on a tight patch on a good fitting jag, as per his system. I used it for target, and rondyvoo matches, before being sidelined by a broken back, which...

Use PB at the shop, because it's fast..get good color I can touch it up. Cleanliness is critical. I have a helper with a second propane torch and a non contact thermometer to judge temperature. Put it on with long strokes of a wet cotton pad. Don't get impatient. When I can I abrasive blast the...

When I was an apprentice in 1960 I had to file a 1 inch brass cube with nothing but a file and a pair of bow calipers from a piece of round bar. It had to be to size, and the same in all dimensions. At the end of my apprenticeship, I had to file a 1 inch sphere, with nothing but a file, a pair...

I'm back from surgery, finally. I can weld a new spur on for you. Send the hammer, with a picture or engraving or photo of the replacement. will cut a piece of steel and weld it on. Most of the old hammers are forgings. They do fracture due to carbon content like modern ones used to do before...

The cylinder alignment issue is long standing..This is why all revolvers have forcing cones at the back of the barrel. This is to try and reduce the damage from misaligned chambers. Of course the better aligned the cylinder, the less bullet damage, and better accuracy results..Just do the best...

I would try and set the stop for solid alignment, free of wiggle..Wear in the hand will eventually result in some wiggle anyways. As you know, the hand holds the cylinder against the stop. Use a range rod (sounds like you have them) to confirm your alignment.

Sorry I lost your contact information, but a lightning strike on the shop cooked all of our electronics. I'm available to do the work again after getting back on line in the shop, and online myself after a horrifying prostate surgery.. Thanks..

Not to go sideways, but on modern stuff, we sand, whisker , stain, fill, and spray with urethane/oil.. build up finish and rub out..

We use so much stock finish, that we make our own. Like Tru-Oil..BLO and Japan drier from the paint store. About 10% drier..Thin coats, maybe 2 a day. for a week. When grain is full, rub back with Rotten Stone to the gloss you like. If the oil is not working for you, wipe it off with acetone...

I took the carving class from Jim Chambers awhile ago..I couldn't understand rococo design at all... 5 day class.. Nothing gelled until I looked in his vault, and then Wednesday afternoon, I got it. Carved the butt on Thursday and Friday morning....Came out OK...You like better if you've done a...

since I'm an antique, I use old fashioned inside straight leg calipers to check unknown inside diameters, and they can reach 8 inches or so.. Just have to learn the 'feel'.... then pull them back out and check with your caliper.....

I used to talk to him after he rode in the Rose Parade in Pasadena. Nice patient guy..

Only looks a little worse than my home machine shop (of course I have a home one!) except mine is all machine tools and gun parts small and large.. My work area is on the bench across from the mill, about 18"by 10 inches, next to a surface plate/storage shelf...

Regarding red lead and oil....when I was an apprentice, we pounded red lead powder into oil in empty snuff cans, until it was a smooth paste. We used it for spotting in machine surfaces that we were hand scraping flat. It turns black under pressure between machine elements. Problem was, red lead...

I've used what used to be called 'Jerrow's inletting black' for about 36 years. On my second tiny jar. They also make a yellow/gold color for dark wood. I use an acid brush or Qtips to apply. Thin layers gents..

smoke a pipe on warm evenings out on the back porch. Keeps the mosquitos away! Not too often now, due to lung damage from Covid last January.

Crisco, not a bad idea, as long as you use an active fluoride containing flux, and pre-tin the surface with silver solder, it should work well. Wish I had thought of that! Just file and contour to match, but watch your hammer nose alignment. I think heating and bending the Hammer for alignment...

As a long time 'smith, I have t say that maintaining your integrity with customers is part of being successful and honorable. Sometimes even the most carefully set up work goes awry. Over the years, I have had to replace 2 handguns. One a plastic framed number, where a pin punch slipped out of...

Colonial Boy, with you!.. I should mention that a torch is good for this. slightly reducing flame burns up some carbon. Mild steel rod helps avoid hard spots. I have been doing TIG for so long, I forgot to mention other process..My apologies..