Removing pin ('63 Remington .31 Pocket)

Somehow or 'nother I've got a bent cylinder pin in my '63 Remington New Pocket .31 cal revolver. I've got another one on the way, but need a little advice on how to remove the blasted thing. The pin itself is 2-1/2", but the space between the frame and the loading lever's latch is 2". Doesn't look good, does it?

The latch is not dove-tailed, so I'm guessing that means it's epoxied in place? Does this mean I'm left with cutting it off in order to put the new pin in place? (Bummer!)

Any tips or suggestions?

Yeah, probably epoxied or pressure fitted. What about cutting off the old pin?

That was my first thought too, then I realized I'll have to put the new one in. :hmm:

I guess I'll dremel off the latch, remove the pin, and then just attach and use the loading lever when I need it. Still a bummer, though.

(Y'know, maybe I'll use the screwed up cylinder pin as a holder for an out-of-gun loader like those used for .44 & .36's...)

Is it this one? http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/1863-Pocket-Remington-Revolver.pdf
If so, should just pull out?

The loading lever latch is pressed in place. Do not try to remove it.

To remove the cylinder pin, lower the lever and pull the pin all the way forward until it hits the latch.

Get a very good adjustable wrench and fit it as tightly as you can to the barrel flats.

While pushing the cylinder pin down away from the barrel, use the wrench to unscrew the barrel 1/2 turn from the frame. (Lefty, loosie.)

Yeah, Mazo, that's pretty much the same little wheelgun. What you don't see from the schematic is that the length of the cylinder pin (#4) is 2-1/2", and there's only 2" clearance until you hit the latch (#7). I suppose that's so you can't remove and lose the pin? Whatever, it means I can't remove it without removing the latch, and sure can't put a new one in with the latch there.

AHA!!! Zonie, you is the smokewagon king! :bow:

Thanks, I'll try that very thing tomorrow. I appreciate it.

If the barrel doesn't want to unscrew, apply some heat to the frame. If it is brass, it will expand faster than the steel barrel and should loosen right up. :grin:

The same method also works to change windage on the full sized Remingtons, Whitney's and Spiller and Burrs to a limited degree. Got an old Navy Arms NMA that hit about 5 inches to the left, screwed it in a tad and brought it right in.

Worked perfectly, Zonie; thanks! :thumbsup:

Now I've got to do a little touch up with a file or dremel to make the rammer fit, and should be good to go.

Thanks again!