Can I form-mould a commercial Slim Jim holster?

I've got a couple of Slim Jim holsters of the type sold by DGW. I like them for reverse / cross draw butt-forward carry of my '60 Colt Army's, but they're loose. They can fall out if I bend over.

I punched a hole and put a hammer thong through one of 'em, but I don't really like that. Can't possibly afford custom made, btw.

Is there any way to make these more moulded to the pistols for a friction fit? I understand that's the way it was done back in the day.

Maybe a fool's errand, but I thought I'd ask. If anyone knows, this is the group. :thumbsup:

Thanks for any info, either way.

The way I used to do it was to oil the gun really well and then place it in the holster after you've soaked it (the holster)in very warm water. While it is drying, keep pressing the damp leather around your revolver. Once done to where you like it re-oil the gun and your done. Hope this helps, Bud

I put the gun in a couple of veggie sacks from the market, then put it in the wet holster. Then I lay the works on a bag of lead shot and put another on top to press it as it dries. This results in a really nice, tight fit. Just make sure the barrel and top strap are pushed up tight against the side of the holster away from the seam. In one case where there was lots of excess leather I ended up putting in a second seam inside of the original, tracking it full length to make a double seam. Wasn't exactly "traditional" I guess, but the gun sure fit well.

Ditto with what BB say's,
Only I use Sahran wrap or Glad Cling Wrap.

Protect your gun with grease, and then a good plastic bag with NO HOLES IN IT.

Then, soak the leather holster in warm water until it softens, and is wet all the way through. Take the leather holster out of the water, and stick your gun into the holster.

Now, knead the leather to form fit around the barrel, and cylinder and Trigger guard of the gun.

When you have it shaped correctly, set the entire project aside somewhere, away from direct heat, to slowly air dry. In this season, it generally will be done by the next morning if you do it one evening, before going to bed.

Remove the plastic bag from around the revolver, clean or wipe away any oil or grease, and then try the gun in the holster. I like to put Neetsfoot oil on the leather after it drys, to soften it a bit, but Not so much that if allows the formed lines to vanish. Once you have shaped the holster to a particular gun, it should fit it closely for many years of use.

If the leather gets soaked and stays wet long enough, you may have to repeat the process of shaping the leather to fit around the gun. But, Never forget to use grease on the surfaces, and then a good plastic bag, to protect the gun from direct contact with wet leather. Any direct contact with wet leather during the drying process will Rust your gun's finish for sure.

I have only MET ONE MAN who had to refit his holster to his gun, as a result of being out in a downpour for several days. I am sure it happens more often than that, but I simply don't hear about it. If you tend to keeping the condition of the leather in good shape, using Neetsfoot oil, Saddle soap, and some of the other synthetic products now offered to care for leather, you should have a holster that lasts for more than 50 years.

It can be done I did mine.
In the process I discovered a couple of things I'll pass on so you can profit by my mistakes. :redface:

Depending on how the leather was tanned the soaking time may vary by a large amount. Traditionally tanned leather seems to take 15 minutes or so from what I'm told, but modern leather with chemical tans takes a lot longer to work well. Mine needed to soak overnight to soften fully. I'd suggest checking as you go for pliability so you don't need to re-do the process if it isn't well enough softened at the beginning.

Probably the best tips I got were to wear cheap gloves when pressing the leather to shape. (They stop you imprinting fingernail marks, which are permanent, into the leather).
Put the pistol into a 1-gallon Ziploc with one turn of duct tape over the muzzle/front sight to prevent ripping during insertion.
If you have the type with a separate strap securing the belt loop to the holster remove it first to speed drying.
Stuff the soaked holster with paper towels & wrap in them to remove excess water before inserting & pressing.

Don't use neatsfoot oil with modern tanned leather it will soften it almost immediately. Instead use neutral shoe polish or wax furniture polish (not pledge which has no wax).