Help with 1860 Colt

I recnetly picked up a used 1860 Colt. The problem I am having with it is the cylinder stop seems to be engaging the cylinder early. Does anybody know how to fix this?

Thanks,
Frost

A new bolt correctly fitted to the action. The bolt should drop ( or rise ) to meet the cylinder just before the notch lines up. One of the tricks used on CAS guns is to cut a small relief area to one side of the notch to allow the bolt to start in a little sooner so it won't skip past the notch when the action is worked fast. Some pistols already have this from the factory.

Just how soon does the bolt engage? Half way through the cycle, or just before the notch lines up? Could be you need to replace the bolt. Parts may be obtained at a number of places: Cabela's, Dixie Gun Works, etc. Whatever you do, be sure to get parts specifically for your make of gun for a proper fit.

J.S. Colt said:

Just how soon does the bolt engage? Half way through the cycle, or just before the notch lines up? Could be you need to replace the bolt. Parts may be obtained at a number of places: Cabela's, Dixie Gun Works, etc. Whatever you do, be sure to get parts specifically for your make of gun for a proper fit.

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Measuring by the marks it's leaving on the cylinder, the bolt is engaging about .09-.1 before it's lined up. If all I need to do is replace the cylinder catch it's an easier fix then I expected.

Frost

It could also be that the bolt catch on the hammer is worn (sorry; can't remember what it's called), but more likely it's the bolt itself. Here's one place you can go for parts:
[url] http://www.blackpowderrevolver.net/page36.html[/url]

So it would be either the bolt catch or the notch on the hammer is worn? Would there be any reason why not to replace them both?

Frost

Most new parts come oversize and need to be fitted to the gun. If you have a shiny mark about .1" before the notch then the timing is very close to what it should be. The bolt should drop just before the notch. If you are trying to get it to drop when the notch is lined up it will have problems if you pull the hammer back fast, the notch will go on past and won't lock up.

You could also try VTI Gun Parts. Great service and quick delivery.

What problem is it causing? The only thing I can see it doing is leaving a ring on the cylinder. Being a used gun it probably already has a ringed cylinder. IF that's all it's doing I wouldn't worry about it.

The Hammer part is hardened and most likely is OK. I believe it's a press on part and I wouldn't want to mess with it. Get a new bolt and adjust it to fall just as the cylinder notch lines up. A properly timed bolt will not leave a mark on the cylinder. If it is, it's engaging too soon. Also, the new bolt will have to be filed slightly to properly fit the cylinder notch. Use your old bolt as a pattern.

rebel727 said:

What problem is it causing? The only thing I can see it doing is leaving a ring on the cylinder. Being a used gun it probably already has a ringed cylinder. IF that's all it's doing I wouldn't worry about it.

Click to expand...

After it is in full cock it stays put, but sense it is engaging early it's actually denting the cylinder. Here are a few pictures to hopefully show what I am talking about.





Frost

Ummm, if you're talking about the dished spot leading into the notch it's factory milled to keep the cylinder from over running if cocked too fast. It does have a faint drag line on the cylinder which is usually caused by half cocking it and letting the hammer down from that position instead of bringing it to full cock then letting it down.

My 60 looked like that when i first got it, the bolt was very rough from the factory.
Look at the surface of the bolt, the part that goes into those notches and see if it`s real smooth or rough. If rough take some fine sand paper and smooth it up, but only on the top surface.

That's actually pretty typical of older Piettas... they just didn't take time to properly fit the bolt. You can re-profile the existing bolt, get a new bolt and fit it with the correct profile, or just learn to live with it. I have a couple of old piettas with the same problem, and I just ignore it.
In answer to your other question, I shoot at a range set up by my brothers and me at my Mother's farm, so I don't usually go to the monthly BP meets.

So, if I understand this right the bolt striking the dished spot next to the notch is not something to worry about? The options I have is shape the existing bolt to prevent it from happening or just buy a new bolt and fit it to the pistol?

My concern came from the fact that when the bolt engages the cylinder it hitting the dished out portion and starting to force it's own grove on that spot but it seems this is not something to worry about?

Thanks,
Frost

Yeah, it's just poorly timed. The greatest majority of modern replica revolvers seem to suffer from the same thing. As mentioned above, re-filing the bolt is the only cure and you'll still need a drop of instant blue to make it "pretty". My "fix" was hitting the whole thing with Naval Jelly and then the shiny line matched everything else! :shocked2: :haha:

Yeah, it's just poorly timed. The greatest majority of modern replica revolvers seem to suffer from the same thing. As mentioned above, re-filing the bolt is the only cure and you'll still need a drop of instant blue to make it "pretty". My "fix" was hitting the whole thing with Naval Jelly and then the shiny line matched everything else! :shocked2: :haha:

My 1851 Pietta has the same marks. The origal trigger bolt spring was so stiff that it was penning the cylinder notch.
When it broke the spring I made was a lot weaker. Did does not mark the cylinder any more.
It just might be a real heavy spring. :hmm:
Lehigh...

Well thanks for all the help. I I wasn't sure if it was something I needed to worry about or not. I guess I will have to put off getting a fluted cylinder for it until I fix the bolt.

Frost

Well after shooting, cleaning and otherwise tampering around with it. I have discovered that the bolt is engaging the cylinder a little before the hammer is set at full cock. If I understand this right I can fix that by replacing the bolt, or do I have to replace the hammer as well?

Frost