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Shot smoothbore match this AM. Forgot my tin of patch lube so I lubed with the simple green I clean the bore with. Shot as well or better than the patch lube I have used for years. Makes you go HMMM.
So with some advice from RobM on the ignition for my TG I did a little work on the pan of myL@R lock and what a huge difference. Thanks again Rob,cleaning er up after shooting yesterday so thought I would take a couple photos for you all to look at .enjoy
 

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So with some advice from RobM on the ignition for my TG I did a little work on the pan of myL@R lock and what a huge difference. Thanks again Rob,cleaning er up after shooting yesterday so thought I would take a couple photos for you all to look at .enjoy
Something I’ve long wanted to try and instead of buying one I did this.so after shooting on Saturday and having trouble cleaning the face of the breach a light went and today it happened.Althou sometimes it would be nice to have 3 or 4 hands.
 

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You
Did you get that done by hand in 2 hr 15min? If so.... Any tips? I think it would take me 8hr. I'm painfully slow in metal work
nope cleaned my gun then watched the grand kids ply ball then came back out and made it.Dont feel bad I haven’t had a flame in my hand for some time.
 
Finally got my f%$#@in brake lights working on my truck ! ... then started back on the Fusil de Chasse . Finally !!! Got the d@mn buttplate in place and quit spring up in different spots ! Lost one of the screws so made a third one then got the buttplate all secured down and started roughing in the buttstock , mortices back . It was tough going , a lot of wood left so took a long time to just get it all rounded off a bit , then chiseled in the comb sides exsentuating the comb and the extended wrist . I took the wrist done to almost final dimensions too so I can get the rest of the buttstock to flow into it . I got it going pretty good , pretty close but will work on it a bit more before I'll consider it in " roughed in " stage. Need to take the comb down a bit thinner , bit too thick still ... Wrist doesnt look defined enough ... but ...finally got some work done on it . Been fighting me . Later found the screw I lost...after spending over an hour making one ...
 

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So with some advice from RobM on the ignition for my TG I did a little work on the pan of myL@R lock and what a huge difference. Thanks again Rob,cleaning er up after shooting yesterday so thought I would take a couple photos for you all to look at .enjoy
You did such a great job on that pan
 
Used my drill press to drill out holes in a long strip of plastic that will hold the home made caps for the Primeall application to them. After the caps are loaded with the compound and binder added when dry just flip over and caps easily come off the strip.

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I like that 👌. What thicnes of plastic and drill size? I'm just getting started on cap making and that looks like a good "tool".

Ot today, but yesterday. My grandson graduated high school and wants to come to Colorado to hunt deer and elk. I came across this tc 54 a while back and though I had no need for it i couldn't pass it up. Decided it would be good grad present for the boy.

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Shot smoothbore match this AM. Forgot my tin of patch lube so I lubed with the simple green I clean the bore with. Shot as well or better than the patch lube I have used for years. Makes you go HMMM.
That's one of the bases for the approximately 20,300 different patch lubes we all know about and all work good. So good that I wonder why everyone isn't using the same excellent patch lube that I use.

For all of us who use spit as a patch lube, even spit will be different from person to person.
 
Finally got the side plate inlet! Slow going. First build and I chose a highly decorated Jäger with much engraving and carving.





Have to always push myself! Maybe I should start a build thread... so far this is going on 2 years...
Made some Vollkornbrot to go with the smoked venison sausages!
WilliamView attachment 225761View attachment 225762
That's going to be one nice rifle, keep us informed!
 
I like that 👌. What thicnes of plastic and drill size? I'm just getting started on cap making and that looks like a good "tool".

The plastic strip is scrap about 1/16” thick. The drill size is the OD of my homemade caps about 3/16” ish. They fit snug in the holes but come off easily when flipped over.
As for the binder I’m considering experimenting with Duco/acetone, pump bottle hairspray, and single base smokeless/acetone mix which I read is very good for positive ignition.
 
Sighting in my Woodsrunner with a lower charge, to conserve powder. Was pushing 70 grs of Swiss 2F, but ran out yesterday. Still have a good supply of Goex. Have a friend running down a potential supplier near him. I hate paying that hazmat fee + shipping. Started out with 50 grs, now I’m up to 60. It’s still shooting pretty well out to 50 yards.
 
Did you get that done by hand in 2 hr 15min? If so.... Any tips? I think it would take me 8hr. I'm painfully slow in metal work
On further review of my build journal 2 hours 45 minutes. The files were used to rough out the gates and take the pits out. The extra fine 2nd cut pilar file really speeded up removing the course file cut mark. The set of rubber polishers wrapped with adhesive backed automotive sand paper from 180 to 600 grit was used to remove the extra fine file marks. Also wrapped sand paper around the various files for the nooks and cranies along with wood dowels of various diameters. The wheels in the drill press did the rough polish. Flitz polish and wool polishing bit on the Dremel did the fine polish. You have to be careful with the Dremel and sand paper never stopping before lifting and never introduce it to the metal before moving. I have 5 hours in the butt plate and trigger guard.
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Happened by a house here in town with a BUNCH of dried cane piled out by the road for trash pickup. Some must be 20’ long. Most appears very dry, must have been cut and stacked a while back for a project they abandoned. Anyway, I have swung by the house to pick up my battery saws and will go back after work to fetch some powder measure material.
 
I like that 👌. What thicnes of plastic and drill size? I'm just getting started on cap making and that looks like a good "tool".

Ot today, but yesterday. My grandson graduated high school and wants to come to Colorado to hunt deer and elk. I came across this tc 54 a while back and though I had no need for it i couldn't pass it up. Decided it would be good grad present for the boy.

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Follow it up w/ a DVD of Jeremiah Johnson and he'll be hooked!
 
Back at my camp. Spent the afternoon watering the vegetables after being gone a week and no rain. Then unpacked the Woodsrunner, the new trade gun supplies, and my new Lee lead pot. Gathered up French curves I already had and printed out samples of different designs while I was home. I’ve had the Quaker practice stock almost 6 months, so now it will get put to use. Bought several new Czech made chisels to add to my collection too. Have to spend a day or so bush hogging, then start some practice carving.
 

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Yesterday I tried the homemade caps I made last week in my Pietta 1860 Sheriff which has stainless steel Slixshot nipples installed. My results were as follows:

6 caps to clear the nipples: All popped. I noticed they make less noise than CCI, Remington, or RWS caps.

6 shots loaded from paper cartridges with 25 grains of Scheutzen 3Fg BP: The first 3 went off OK but the next 3 popped but failed to set off the BP. I recapped those cylinder and none set off the powder. I recapped once more using RWS 1075+ caps and all 3 chambers went off.

They may work better with paper cartridges if I increase the amount of priming compound in each cap.

6 shots with 25 grains of Scheutzen loaded from a flask: All 6 went off properly.

6 shots with 25 grains of Triple 7 3Fg BP substitute, which has a higher ignition temp: All 6 went off properly.

The caps on shots with 25 grains of BP held together but flowed a little back into the safety notch in the hammer nose.

The caps on the Triple 7 loads all perforated but the skirts held together.

None of the caps fragmented and I had no jams. Some came off easily while others had to be pried off either with my fingers or pocketknife.

Overall, I consider the home made caps using the Prime-All compound a success for use in percussion revolvers and I'm sure they'd work fine in an underhammer. I need to test them in a sidelock rifle or pistol.
 

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