How hard to tighten nipples

In another thread here folks were talking about stripping out the shoulders on nipples on a ROA while trying to back out said nipples.

That seems like the nipples were screwed in way too hard. When I put nipples back in the cylinder after cleaning, I oil the threads in the cylinder, oil the threads on the nipple nipple and then just screw the nipple in slightly harder than finger tight with the nipple wrench. I figure the nipples won't back out due to vibration so why crank down hard on something that small?

I have replaced all the nipples in my cap and ball guns with stainless steel so I am really not too worried about them rusting in place.

Many Klatch

Maximum would be 6-9 ft-lbs 9 being for a 1/4-20 mild carbon steel bolt. I would likely do a little less probably 5. Its hard to over torque them with a nipple wrench with normal pressure. Just well snugged is sufficient.
In rifles failure to use some torque could cause leakage of powder gases though the threads and this can cause erosion. In revolvers with much lower pressure its less likely.
This is why nipples need a good seat above the threads to match a seat on the breech.

Dan

I would use graphite choke lube sold for shotguns - not oil - on nipple threads. As said above, snug only with a short-handled nipple wrench. Some new guns come with the nipples overtightened from the factory (Uberti seems to be famous for this). Therefore, with a brand new gun, first remove the nipples, and lube before firing.

Stainless steel won't rust, but it could gall.

When cleaning a blackpowder gun, I usually remove the nipple(s) and reinstall with the graphite lube. This allows cleaning the nipple and the nipple socket with a pipe cleaner, and reduces the chance of the nipple becoming stuck or coming loose. (Some people contend that nipples tighten up over time as the gun is fired - I don't know for sure.)

Just tighten them Snugly (hand tight). I would also getting consider some anti-seize compound.

I clean the threads after each range session and then apply fresh breech plug grease. Some folks don't clean the threads very often and may not use any grease.
I barely snug my revolver nipples at all and none have ever backed out the slightest amount during firing.

being a somewhat paranoid type, i started using nickle never-seize from the very first time i bought a perc gun. just how it is. when i bought a safe queen a couple of weeks ago, the very first thing i did when it came home with me was to remove the cylinder and give the whole gun a good cleaning. that included destroying the nipples trying to get them out to clean and lube them. d'oh. good thing the guy that sold me the ROA had a little ziplok bag with a whole brand new set of nipples in it. They will come in handy when I get the cylinder back from the smith.

Yeah, let us know hoe that turns out with the smithy.

I use the white PTFE tape on all my the threads of my percussion guns ,just rap the threads with a small piece of tape and tighten as normal.this helps to protect and seal and makes removal must easier .(well this my story and Im sticking to it :wink:
)Pete

When I get a brand new or new to me and the nipples are tight .I spray a little Amsoil MP in the cylinders and while that is working. I do something for a few minutes to let the Amsoil MP penetrate and then back out the nipples. Before I put the nipples back on I use "spit ball" or some other grease on the threads.

I do the basic same thing with rifles.

when the nipples didn't come right out, i put the cylinder into a babyfood jar full of kroil. for two weeks. then i proceeded to destroy the nipples thinking i just needed a leeeetle more push down. what really set me up for my own failure is the first nipple finally did come out, a little tight, but it came out fine.

I use Gorilla Grease or CVA Anti-Seize Stick on the threads.

I am new to the site. I know this is not quite the same but I have a .45 Jukar Philadelphia Derringer that I suspected the nipple was over tightened multiply times and now the hammer does not make good enough contact on the nipple to set cap off. To fix the problem I used a thin piece of aluminum I drilled out to make a washer to fit under the nipple to raise it and now I get good contact that sets off the cap. My question is this how safe if this fix when you add the pressure of a load.

I recommend that you get a new nipple. Call the folks at Track of the Wolf and tell them what you have. They may know exactly what kind of nipple is required.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx

Many Klatch

The nipple looks to be new. Where the nipple screws in is worn down and had an indention where the base of the nipple has worn.

Al
Welcome to the forum.

Your fix is probably safe if the threads in the breech and on the nipple are in good condition AND the washer is pretty thin.

If the washer is thicker than one thread pitch though, it will weaken things and possibly cause the threads to fail.

As Many Klatch suggested, buying a new nipple is your best bet.

You will want to buy a 6mm X 1mm thread, rifle length nipple made for CVA, Traditions, Jukar etc.

The nipple at the top of this link would do nicely but it seems to be out of stock
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/64/1

I notice that the third one down is the right size and it is in stock.

Although it doesn't exactly have much to do with your question, nipples come in several different thread sizes and in two different lengths.

The one you need is made for single barrel muzzleloading guns and it is longer than the other ones made for Cap & Ball revolvers.

Every once in a while, someone will end up buying a short cap & ball nipple for their single shot gun and then have problems with it. Likewise others will sometimes end up buying a long nipple and wonder why it doesn't work in their cap & ball pistol.

Have fun.

I think snug with a good nipple wrench is plenty. I use shotgun choke tube lube on them and then tighten down snug to a stop. Seems to work fine. Now how the factory sent the original to me... that was another story.

bothenook said:

when the nipples didn't come right out, i put the cylinder into a babyfood jar full of kroil. for two weeks. then i proceeded to destroy the nipples thinking i just needed a leeeetle more push down. what really set me up for my own failure is the first nipple finally did come out, a little tight, but it came out fine.

Click to expand...

It's hard to beat Kroil for things like that!

Might want to take a look at this thread..
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/cva-50-hawken-nipple-blow-out.96611/

I've been using white lubriplate grease, nipples just snugged. And I don't remove them when I clean, no need to. But I only use hot water, no soap.

I'll get back lash for this.........But, I use WD-40 on my nipple threads. 50+ years doing that nebber a problem. I suggest tighten just to snug. If you grunt when tightening, you have tightened too much.