Got a line on a used TC flintlock for around $200. Not sure beyond that. I’ve never gone to look at a flintlock or bp gun before. What should I look for or be aware of. MLs are not very prevalent in Pasco county so if the price is low that probably has at least something to do with it.
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Newb question
- Thread starter Teliliad
- Start date
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Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Check the bore
I’ve collected old guns before. So checking the bore off any used firearm is second nature to me now. Sorry, I should have been more specific. I was more referring to the fact that I am not practically familiar with ‘lock’ guns. You give me a slide or lever action or a modern semi auto I’m good to go. What should I look for as far as the flintlock mechanism, the barrel plug, the barrel attachment, any other nuances specific to muzzle loaders that I should keep in mind.
Good evening, Teliliad.
Pull the cock back slowly to half cock, continue to full cock. Feel the lock... should be smooth but strong .
Put tension on the and keep it there. Squeeze the trigger ease the forward cock forward feeling for any hesitation or anything that feels like it's catching up or dragging. Do it a few times. Also feel how the trigger Works while you're doing that. Like you said you bought guns before so rust crack stocks things like that.
Hope that helps.
Just one County north of ya.
Sumter County.
Stay safe.
Pull the cock back slowly to half cock, continue to full cock. Feel the lock... should be smooth but strong .
Put tension on the and keep it there. Squeeze the trigger ease the forward cock forward feeling for any hesitation or anything that feels like it's catching up or dragging. Do it a few times. Also feel how the trigger Works while you're doing that. Like you said you bought guns before so rust crack stocks things like that.
Hope that helps.
Just one County north of ya.
Sumter County.
Stay safe.
Will do. Thanks that was helpful! So kind of like checking a SAA
If you are able, take a screwdriver with you and pop off the lock and check inside for rust.
This shouldn't really adversely affect your decision, but you should know the differences between the old style T/C flint lock and the new style.
Following is a link to a thread with pictures.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-style-new-style-t-c-hammer.106053/
Replacing the old style for what is considered to be more reliable ignition with the new style hammer and frizzen is not very expensive.
And of course, with any muzzleloading rifle, check to see if there is anything loaded. Check the bore and look for rust. @Gum Slough Muzzleloader has a pretty good simplified checklist.
Following is a link to a thread with pictures.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/old-style-new-style-t-c-hammer.106053/
Replacing the old style for what is considered to be more reliable ignition with the new style hammer and frizzen is not very expensive.
And of course, with any muzzleloading rifle, check to see if there is anything loaded. Check the bore and look for rust. @Gum Slough Muzzleloader has a pretty good simplified checklist.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Take a bore light with you.
How could I tell if there’s something in it? And if there is something in it, how detrimental is that and how do I get it out?
Run the ramrod down the barrel. Hold it where the muzzle and ramrod meet. Lay the ramrod next to the barrel. The tip of the ramrod should reach to just about the breech plug. If you wrap a patch around the cleaning jag, you should hear air rush out of the nipple.
If there is something in the barrel, that can be a real bargaining point to further reduce the price.
If there is something at the breech, the best choice is to use a CO2 discharger since you don't know what type of powder has been used. You could also get a 1/4-28 Zerk fitting and pump grease to move the object out of the barrel. The grease method sounds a lot messier than it really is. There's lots of threads on the Forum on removing a stuck object in the barrel.
If there is something in the barrel, that can be a real bargaining point to further reduce the price.
If there is something at the breech, the best choice is to use a CO2 discharger since you don't know what type of powder has been used. You could also get a 1/4-28 Zerk fitting and pump grease to move the object out of the barrel. The grease method sounds a lot messier than it really is. There's lots of threads on the Forum on removing a stuck object in the barrel.
100% correct on checking to see if loaded. I definitely should have stated that first and foremost. I just take that for granted. Not anymore.
I try to keep things simple. I definitely do not want send anyone the wrong or unsafe path. That's what's good about this Forum lot of experience, different ideas, and methods. If one misses it another will pick up on it and cover it.
Thanks take care.
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If it has a good bore, no obvious problems, or damage, all else can be dealt with. $200.00 is a bargain price. IMHO.
@Teliliad, the lock should be checked for sparking. Of course, the sparking test should be done after the bore has been checked for a load. Failing to spark may not be much of a deal breaker if the flint is dull or missing. As @LRB has observed, $200 is a bargain price for a T/C Hawken flint lock with a good bore.
I don’t think it’s a Hawken, but it did have a wood stock.
@Teliliad,Renegade then? Still a good price.
SmokepoleSam
45 Cal.
The hawken has brass hardware and a 28" barrel while the renegade has black hardware and a 26" barrel. That is a very good price and unless the barrel is completely beyond help it's still a good buy.
What’s the rebarreling process/cost on one of these? Wondering if that would be worth it.
Honestly not really sure. I only saw it briefly. I’m going back next week, I’ll be checking it back out then.
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Re-barrelling on these is simple.
Buy a good used barrel, remove barrel wedge, cock the cock, tip barrel up at the muzzle and swing it out of the stock. A ten second process.
Depends on what you want to do with it. The most costly scenario is your obtaining an after-market drop-in barrel. A LOT of guys if they find an inexpensive TC such as yours, but with a roached bore from improper cleaning, send it out to get the barrel reamed smooth in the next higher common caliber. So a lot of .50's become .54 smoothbores (28 gauge), and a lot of .54's become .58's (24 gauge). Normally these are plenty accurate for deer using roundball out to 50 yards, AND do well on squirrels and rabbits with shot, and this is often done for less than $150 including shipping. For a bit more one can have the barrel reamed and then re-rifled, if one needs to go for deer and such beyond 50 yards as a regular rule.
LD
