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How many of you dry your revolver in the oven?

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Wash in sink with hot water and soap, then into the oven at 220° for a few minutes. 220° insures water will vaporize from all nooks and crevices. I also will use a heat gun, hair dryer, or sun light to dry, depending upon circumstances. Common sense applies in all cases, I don't heat my parts to 1600° with a heat gun. I have used Pyrodex almost exclusively (97% Pyro, 2% 777, 1% Real Black) in my revolvers since 1977, and have had great results using this methodology. Why so much Pyro? For the first 20 years or so it was the only powder available, and I thought it was "black powder", so it is all I used. Never had a problem, and my barrels look pristine. Even today, I only use Real Black in flintlocks.
 
Plus, how hot do you "bake" it at?
And does anyone have any horror stories relating to drying it this way?
I don't dry any of my guns in the oven but my M.L. rifles are dryed on top of my kitchen stove. I lay the barrel across to lit burners works like a charm. I have been doing it this way since the early seventies and never experinced a problem.
 
Never put in oven but I have used a hair dryer before reassembly. On a hot sunny day I have put parts in an aluminum pan and set out in the sun. After 30 min. or so parts are hot

I normally just blast with the air compressor , hit the crevices/joints, pivot points etc. with WD 40 (water displacement formula 40), then air blast again. the WD is strictly for displacing (as it is designed) the water. Then coat with oil, lube as always. Quick and done.
I do the same thing but always worry about getting moisture out of the threads of all the screws.
 
Never heard of it.
I was digging in to rust prevention about ten to twelve years ago… maybe longer (the older I get, the faster time seems to pass) and ran across a guy on the web doing his own study in to it. Would take nails, clean any oil off, shine them with sandpaper, and then he put them through different tests, using about ten different things that people use for rust prevention: WD40, CorrosionX, RemOil, CLP, etc. He included one I had never heard of, Eezox. It came out on top, just ahead of CorrosionX, which I was already using, and is some good stuff as well. So we got a quart can of it. Still have 3/4 of it. For all my smokeless guns, after cleaning I wipe them down with a thin coat of it.
Have a cheap Chinese air gun that I keep out in the barn for rats. That thing has been out there for as long as I’ve had the Eezox. No rust so far. And in Florida, that’s a big deal. It’s a tad moist down this way.
Downside to Eezox and CorrosionX: hard to find, and expensive, compared to some others…
-Red, not paid by Eezox…
 
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I do the same thing but always worry about getting moisture out of the threads of all the screws.
The easiest way is not to get it in the threads in the first place. Whenever I get a new revolver I clean with a good solvent and then pump the action full of Mobil One Synthetic grease. Load it as normal and fire. Cleaning consists of cleaning the bore, chambers, and exterior of the pistol with cold water or any blackpowder solvent you prefer. Cotton patches and gun cleaning q-tips are all that’s needed Although I do have an old Phillips Sonicare toothbrush in my shop for stubborn deposits. After that I dry with clean cotton patches and swabs and finish with a light coat of Eezox or Froglube. I used CLP for years and it worked great too. This is quick, easy, and wont get you banned from the kitchen. Every year or 10,000 rounds you may want to strip and degrease your pistol. It won’t really need it but it may sooth the OCD present in all of us. You won’t find any hint of corrosion inside a pistol so treated.
 
I clean everything in hot water and then put a coating of Balistol on everything including the bore and then put it in the oven in a Corning wear glass pan at 225 for twenty minutes.
I turn the oven off and let it sit in there until it’s cool enough to put back together.
Never had problems with rust.
 
My wife would have a cow if I was using the oven for gun parts. Heat gun is way faster and easier if I need to do a fast dry or dry hard to get places.
 
I was digging in to rust prevention about ten to twelve years ago… maybe longer (the older I get, the faster time seems to pass) and ran across a guy on the web doing his own study in to it. Would take nails, clean any oil off, shine them with sandpaper, and then he put them through different tests, using about ten different things that people use for rust prevention: WD40, CorrosionX, RemOil, CLP, etc. He included one I had never heard of, Eezox. It came out on top, just ahead of CorrosionX, which I was already using, and is some good stuff as well. So we got a quart can of it. Still have 3/4 of it. For all my smokeless guns, after cleaning I wipe them down with a thin coat of it.
Have a cheap Chinese air gun that I keep out in the barn for rats. That thing has been out there for as long as I’ve had the Eezox. No rust so far. And in Florida, that’s a big deal. It’s a tad moist down this way.
Downside to Eezox and CorrosionX: hard to find, and expensive, compared to some others…
-Red, not paid by Eezox…
Who sells it?
 
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