Fiebings leather dye

When choosing Fiebings leather dye to finish a rifle stock, how do you know if the stain is alcohol-based stain or not, I cannot seem to find that information on the package...

Remember, this is not color-fast. Not the best choice…

James Kibler said:

Remember, this is not color-fast. Not the best choice…

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Interesting, as I've never had a problem with it fading, nor of the color coming off on hands, but..., I've always followed it with multiple coats of tung oil, so perhaps that helped stabilize it. This was also on stocks with little if any figure, so no need to bring out any curl.

rusty said:

When choosing Fiebings leather dye to finish a rifle stock, how do you know if the stain is alcohol-based stain or not, I cannot seem to find that information on the package...

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If it the label says "CAUTION: Flammable" it's alcohol based.

LD

Fiebings leather dye comes in two forms alcohol-based and oil-based. I use both on my leather items and only a couple of times on wood.
The alcohol-based dries much faster, and the oil-based dries more slowly but penetrates deeper.
What Mr. Kilber said is true to some degree if left untreated it isn't colorfast, but as Dave said when sealed with some sort of finish it's fine for wood.
Here's a knife handle I did with their med brown;

Who does everyone insist on using Fiebing's LEATHER dye when Trans-Tint makes alcohol based stain for WOOD?

Projects turn out so much better when corners are not cut.

Fiebing's LEATHER dye whether regular formula or "pro dye" is alcohol based and alcohol thinned. Not the best choice for staining a rifle stock as its a fader but better than putting minwax stain on a gunstock.

I dyed an M1842 stock using Fiebings leather dye and indeed it did lighten up in rather short order. Still looks nice.

Capt. Jas. said:

Fiebing's LEATHER dye whether regular formula or "pro dye" is alcohol based and alcohol thinned. Not the best choice for staining a rifle stock as its a fader but better than putting minwax stain on a gunstock.

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Found this on the Fiebings site:

Pro Dye - alcohol based
Leather Dye - alochol based

LeatherColors - water based

Low VOC Leather Dye - solvent based

I’ve been doing some leatherwork lately so I have been looking for the same info about the dyes.

https://fiebing.com/page/1/?s=Leather+dye&post_type=product

Kabulrocks said:

Found this on the Fiebings site:

Pro Dye - alcohol based
Leather Dye - alochol based

LeatherColors - water based

Low VOC Leather Dye - solvent based

I’ve been doing some leatherwork lately so I have been looking for the same info about the dyes.

https://fiebing.com/page/1/?s=Leather+dye&post_type=product

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alcohol-based is the fastest to dry when you are in a hurry to finish a project. I use both on leather, oil-based (solvent) type takes a lot longer to dry but if your looking for more of an antique look the oil base topped with any good leather treatment gives a much warmer look.

64Springer said:

Who does everyone insist on using Fiebing's LEATHER dye when Trans-Tint makes alcohol based stain for WOOD?

Projects turn out so much better when corners are not cut.

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Well first, nobody is "insisting", and second, what exactly (other than the label) makes you think that Trans-Tint is better than the Fiebings? Could Fiebings come out with a dye in a container labeled "wood dye" but not change their formula, and be on par with Trans-Tint? Trans-Tint I looked up and find that they are a concentrate and use either water or alcohol as an additive, up to the user....

Minwax makes wood stain that is water based... so we should use Minwax instead of Fiebing's because it's for wood?

I have NO idea where the implied conclusion was drawn that somehow using Fiebings was an effort to "cut corners".

LD

I don't want to totally hijack this thread, but there seems to be a lot of people in here with Fiebing's knowledge... I have some black Fiebing's and am planning to re-dye a pair of dyed brown leather gloves.

Do I need to do anything with the gloves before applying the black? Or can I just dye right over the brown dye?

Loyalist Dave said:

Well first, nobody is "insisting", and second, what exactly (other than the label) makes you think that Trans-Tint is better than the Fiebings? Could Fiebings come out with a dye in a container labeled "wood dye" but not change their formula, and be on par with Trans-Tint? Trans-Tint I looked up and find that they are a concentrate and use either water or alcohol as an additive, up to the user....

Minwax makes wood stain that is water based... so we should use Minwax instead of Fiebing's because it's for wood?

I have NO idea where the implied conclusion was drawn that somehow using Fiebings was an effort to "cut corners".

LD

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Transtint are metalized or metal complex dyes which are supposed to be superior for light fastness. It's also common knowledge amongst experienced high end builders, that leather dye is prone to fading.

If you want test it for yourself. Stain and finish a piece of maple. Cover one half with cardboard and tape and sit it in a window to accelerate the UV affect. After a month or two, pull the cardboard off and compare.

Jim

James Kibler said:

Transtint are metalized or metal complex dyes which are supposed to be superior for light fastness. It's also common knowledge amongst experienced high end builders, that leather dye is prone to fading.

If you want test it for yourself. Stain and finish a piece of maple. Cover one half with cardboard and tape and sit it in a window to accelerate the UV affect. After a month or two, pull the cardboard off and compare.

Jim

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Oh I believe you, without a doubt. When I looked them up the cost gave me a hint they were a cut above, but when folks simply make assertions, I like to ask them to clarify why.

LD

Thanks, guys

BJamesBeck said:

I don't want to totally hijack this thread, but there seems to be a lot of people in here with Fiebing's knowledge... I have some black Fiebing's and am planning to re-dye a pair of dyed brown leather gloves.

Do I need to do anything with the gloves before applying the black? Or can I just dye right over the brown dye?

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Glove leather is very thin and was most likely vat dyed rather than using a surface dye. If the gloves a lined I wouldn't do it. If not no problem just give them a good cleaning and put the dye in them, let them dry, and use a good leather treatment on them.

James Kibler said:

Transtint are metalized or metal complex dyes which are supposed to be superior for light fastness. It's also common knowledge amongst experienced high end builders, that leather dye is prone to fading.

If you want test it for yourself. Stain and finish a piece of maple. Cover one half with cardboard and tape and sit it in a window to accelerate the UV affect. After a month or two, pull the cardboard off and compare.

Jim

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Are you talking about a piece of unfinished wood? To me, that isn't a fair test,
How many gun builders leave their stocks unfinished?
My apology Jim I didn't see the finish part, but even with that the type of finish will make a big difference.

Capt. Jas. said:

Fiebing's LEATHER dye whether regular formula or "pro dye" is alcohol based and alcohol thinned. Not the best choice for staining a rifle stock as its a fader but better than putting minwax stain on a gunstock.

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Yucky on the Minwax!

andy52 said:

Glove leather is very thin and was most likely vat dyed rather than using a surface dye. If the gloves a lined I wouldn't do it. If not no problem just give them a good cleaning and put the dye in them, let them dry, and use a good leather treatment on them.

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They are not lined, just a simple leather gauntlet I have for a medieval reenactment getup, fairly thin leather. They were pretty cheap, so I think I'll just clean them up like you said and give it a go!

I'll find out about Fiebings before too long. I just stained a light walnut stock with a mix of Danglers golden brown and Danglers Reddish brown stain. It was a little too red and not dark enough to suit me some I put on a coat of Fiebings dark chocolate oil dye. There are two coats of a blend of Linseed Oil, Minwax Antique Oil Finish, and turpentine on the wood. Lots more finish to come before it's done.

BJamesBeck said:

They are not lined, just a simple leather gauntlet I have for a medieval reenactment getup, fairly thin leather. They were pretty cheap, so I think I'll just clean them up like you said and give it a go!

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I’m a noob at leather working, but I believe my mentor in leather work (40+ year saddlemaker) said that black has to have a top coat/sealer to keep it from rubbing off on other things, like your clothes. Fiebings Resolene is what he uses for that.