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I believe that Titebond label says 4000 lb. tensile strength! There's a couple versions of it, one is stronger than the other.
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Laminated stock blank?
- Thread starter Teliliad
- Start date
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Sam squanch
62 Cal.
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On a traditional gun- no. Although I have made pistol stocks from 2 pieces glued up. But I would inlet for the barrel and lock, trigger, ect. before I glued them together. Made some inlets easier. But these were were for popping cans and squirrels, not for carrying at a historic judged event.
If I did this I would use power tools. And what I was thinking was using Purple Heart for the outside pieces and a wide strip of maple in the middle. Would negate any grain issues as I’d bid using unremarkable wood anyway and letting the color of the wood speak for the peice.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Purple Heart is like Hard Maple on Viagra.
It will dull your chisels almost instantly.
I've worked with Purle Heart many times.
It has almost a glass like property to it.
It will dull your chisels almost instantly.
I've worked with Purle Heart many times.
It has almost a glass like property to it.
Notes. Maybe walnut and olive wood be better… could also use mahogany or wenge. But also as I said, I’d likely be using a lot of power tools. Just sucks cause I sold almost all of my tools due to a divorce. I have a lot I need to reaccumulate.
Sounds like you have never made a stock before. You are talking about wood that can be rather difficult to work with and maybe not so well suited to guns. Then comes the comment about lots of power tools. I don't see a real high chance of success here. Start off with a plain maple blank. It will look good, be easy to work with, and not cost very much.
I’ve done very minor stock work and inletting. With things such as Mosins and Carcanos. Most of my wood working experience comes from making electric guitars and router template making.
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Thompson Center had a laminated stock at one time for the Hawken: Thompson Center Hawken .50cal Wm Malcolm 6X Scoped
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Two of my pet peeves.
1. it’s my gun, and no one is gonna tell me what to do.
2. Any question about muzzleloaders that begin with. “What is the cheapest”?
These always end up with the same result. Something nobody wants.
1. it’s my gun, and no one is gonna tell me what to do.
2. Any question about muzzleloaders that begin with. “What is the cheapest”?
These always end up with the same result. Something nobody wants.
Sorry if that’s how I’m coming across. I’m not trying to. I just realize that My first attempts are likely to end in failure, I want practice before I buy a really nice piece of wood. I still need to buy a new router, bits, materials, chisels, files and rasps, etc before I can even take on this project. I want to practice on hard woods. Honestly, I’ve gotten two shot guns that I want or need new stocks on and I’ll want wood on any in-line I buy. Realistically I’m probably going to start muzzle loading with an in-line just because of how cheap they can be had, But the end goal is I want to build a smooth bore matchlock as much from scrap as I can. Might even try to cast my own parts. But there are several skills I’ll need to acquire and practice that needs done before I can do any of that. So I’m looking for cheaper ways to acquire wood for the practice. If my practice pieces result in usable furniture I’d just like it to be made from something that will last. These are the ultimate goals and reasonings behind my inquiry.
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Please send me his information. Sounds like a fellow that could help me.
I agree. But, at one time, there was a fellow named Clark who made muzzle loaders that were anything but traditional in appearance but had multi-colored laminated stocks. The lamination was to prevent movement and/or warpage with humidity and temperate changes. He, and his family, were avid competitor at Friendship and their many wins seemed to validate the quality of his rifles. BTW, NMLRA officials allowed them even though, with thumb hole rests and a lot more zip gun features they were anything but traditional in appearance.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Yup, that's a fact. The NMLRA even has matches for anything goes inline stuff. They can have it, I was done shooting down there years ago.
I think you could get away with it on some styles of guns. I kind of like the painted trade guns and a laminated maple or birch stock could probably be hidden well enough in this style. Wouldn't be my choice, but it could be done.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
If you want to learn to stock muzzleloaders buy a plain hard maple blank. You can probably find one for 50 bucks or less.
For many of us the beauty, grace and elegance of many an old rifle is the telos of our work. But it is a big world with room enough for ugly guns.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Personally, I think I'd rather not have to look at any more ugly guns.
I’ll keep looking as that would be preferable to me as I’d probably spend as much or more on the plank lumber that I’d be laminating. It’ll honestly probably be a year before I acquire all the tools and space necessary for cutting a stock. But in the mean time I do have other projects that need worked on.
I only look long enough to see that it is ugly.
I think synthetic stocks are ugly. Thumb holes are atrocious. The only time I want to see a synthetic stock or furniture on a firearm is when it is designed for wet or marine environments where wood wouldn’t be ideal. I deal with it on AR-15s an other similar tactical rifles, but largely I hate it. An ugly wood stock will look better than a nice synthetic any day of the week. Even the Boyd’s stocks make me cringe most of the time.
