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I'll let you know.

My eyes have issues. Pretty severe astigmatism in both eyes. I'm ok with correction, but my progressive lenses don't allow me to see the sights. I'm going to shoot next with my 'computer glasses'. If I can make out the sights, as long as the target is large enough, I may be OK. If not, I can use the new sights with my progressive lenses...maybe.😛
Maybe its a frame adjustment issue on your glasses, sometimes it really helps. I wear trifocal progressive lenses, and have no issues with iron sights or scope
 
Emptied three guns I had loaded and sitting around. One was an Uberti 1862 Pocket Police. One was a Pecatonica River Underhammer .45 that I had loaded from last deer season. Took a shot at 100 yard gong and missed.
However, with my Kibler SMR in .45, (also still loaded from last year's deer season) I took a shot at that same gong and smacked it good right in the center.
Now if I could only remember where I was holding the sights on it, and what load I had stuffed in there, I'd be really happy. :doh:

The Doc is out now. 😎
 
I'll let you know.

My eyes have issues. Pretty severe astigmatism in both eyes. I'm ok with correction, but my progressive lenses don't allow me to see the sights. I'm going to shoot next with my 'computer glasses'. If I can make out the sights, as long as the target is large enough, I may be OK. If not, I can use the new sights with my progressive lenses...maybe.😛
I have significant age related vision issues. Sight in the right eye has forced me to become a LH shooter. It has not been an easy transition.
 
Maybe its a frame adjustment issue on your glasses, sometimes it really helps. I wear trifocal progressive lenses, and have no issues with iron sights or scope
I'm not sure what you're suggesting. When I shoot I'm looking out of the top of my lenses, which is the distance portion. I can't see the front sight. I need to be looking at the midrange portion of the lens to see at 40ish inches.
 
I have started to mill the logs from the maple that I had removed from my back yard. So far I have cut out one 3" by 6' plank. I have six 6' logs ranging from 24"to over 40" in diameter. This will make more stock blanks than I will ever use, but I couldn't see cutting them into firewood. I bought a larger saw, a Husky 460 with a 24" bar also a ripping chain to fit.
 
Royal Mail delivered a new toy today 😁
 

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I'm not sure what you're suggesting. When I shoot I'm looking out of the top of my lenses, which is the distance portion. I can't see the front sight. I need to be looking at the midrange portion of the lens to see at 40ish inches.
There is a company called SSP eyeware that makes what they top focal shooting glasses. They put the bifocal in the top of the lens.
 
Tossed the Hawk some while waiting for the lead pot to come up to temperature. Finally got my distance on the Hawk about the time the handle broke. Cast 75ish .570 balls, one at a time with a nice borrowed Lyman mold. Shut off the gas and went to replace the Hawk handle. With new handle in play I recommenced throwing until it got too dark (to see where the hawk went when I missed the block).

At my first Rendezvous a couple of months back I had a big fat zero score on Hawk and Knife. That will not do and I intend to at least place at our Fall 'Vous. To that end I have obtained a nice block and built a tripod for it from scrap pallet wood in the back yard. Getting pretty good with the Knife, the Hawk needs a lot of work. Like Archery, practice and consistency is called for. It is nice to be able to do stuff in the back yard, the neighbors might balk at shooting the muzzleloaders. With the Archery, Hawk and Knife it is only the dog and cat wondering what I am doing.
 
Today I worked on a 20 ga. fowler load in preparation for turkey season. Previously using a Navy Arms 12 ga turkey and trap I used 100 grains FF and 1 1/2 copper plated 4's with great success. This was too much for the flint fowler and was giving me donut patterns. The best I have come up with so far is 80 grains FF, four thin OS card wads, a ball of tow, a craft paper rolled canister twisted at the base ( as if making paper patched bullets) and and OS card wad. Now we're talkin' turkey.
 
I continued to experiment with 1F in a pair of Pietta .44 Brassers, hoping to get out again tomorrow to shoot some more.

I have 25 pounds of 1F , and I don't use it in anything else really. Even my .69 smoothbores just get 2F. And I rarely fire them anymore.

So I basically probably have a 10 years supply of 1F for these revolvers. I bought it 3 years ago and haven't done anything with it, so in my mind it's like "found" powder, like finding cash in a coat you haven't worn in years.

They shoot very well at 25 but the groups open up a lot at 50, with 35 grains. Good power and thump without beating the guns up, and I went to a 35gr spout instead a 30gr because I figured with my finger in the top, it probably throws 32-33 grains anyway plus it's 1F which equates to about a 25ish grain charge of 3F.

Worst case scenario they become 25 yard range blaster guns . Some time on the sandbag at 50 will be the judge here.
 
Got a chance to take the CVA Mountain Rifle out to the range. Interesting. Instead of a sharp recoil, it was a "push". My biggest problem is that it took two caps to get a shot off. I cleaned the nipple, did my best to make sure the "flash channel" was clear, swabbed the barrel out after each shot, etc., etc. but still required a second cap before it would fire. I am using Hodgdon Select (2F), Winchester Magnum caps. All my real black powder is 3F so I hesitate to use it because the black powder loading manual doesn't give any data on using 3F in a .58 cal, 32" barrel rifle. Oh, I took better pictures of the rifle....

230412-001 3 x 1_25.jpg


230412-002 3 x 1_25.jpg
 
@JamesA needs a nipple designed to deliver more flame through all the twists and turns in the drum and nipple through the chambered breech to the powder charge. A Hot Shot, Red Hot or Spitfire nipple is designed to send more heat to ignite the powder.
 
When you say it took 2 caps to set off the gun do you mean you changed out the first cap for another cap? Or do you mean you had to hit the first cap twice? If you had to hit the cap twice the cap is a little small for the nipple. To fix that chuck the nipple in a drill and file the side of the cone down a little and check a cap for fit, stop when it fits. Replacing the nipple will work if the new nipple is a little smaller. Good luck
 

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