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Range Rod Oopsie

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Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
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Location
Georgia
Most of my jags and cleaning accessories date from more than 35 years ago. Back then, I had not heard of not using all brass jags, with no steel in the threaded part. (Homer Simpson head slap here)!

My all brass jag broke off just as I was starting to run a patch down the barrel! No problem there, as it was easily removed.

However, my trusty Range Rod now has the threaded part of the jag broken off flush with the tip of the Range Rod. (Another Dope Slap here)!

I figure the best way to get the offending piece of brass out of the rod is by drilling a hole in it, and hitting my Ace Hardware store for an extractor. Forget what they are called. Probably an extractor!

I figure I am not the first guy this has happened to, so I thought I would post this before I order a bunch of new jags with steel threads.
Another life lesson learned.
as the guy said, “Coulda been worse”!
Crawfish
 
i had a similar ooops. i used a jewelers saw and cut the range rod off about half way down the jag threads.by sawing just through the rod wall i just unscrewed the broken jag threaded tang using the cut off. then i used the short socket left on the range rod as a guide and drilled the end to the proper depth and tapped it.
only lost 1/4 inch of rod length.
 
I have a new friend , bless his heart , that has chronic ramrod problems. His 30 yr. old custom flint rifle, a semi-disaster due to very poor maintenance. The ramrod with the rifle is exiled from use , to remain in it's r/r thimbles. His go-to ram rod , is a 5/16 " , solid aluminum , 48" length , 1960's era unmentionable shot gun cleaning rod , with a rotating " TEE" handle on it. First , he came with a broken off , old time adapter on his rod to hold a screw in r/r tip. Fixed that , and in a week , he was back with the r/r tip broken off . I explained to him , that his rotary "Tee" handle , was acting like a free floating wrench , in conjunction with the twist of the rifling in the bore. A normal r/rod has no Rotating end on it , (I Pinned the Tee handle solid ) , and is naturally turned in a direction to keep the r/rod tip from unscrewing itself. I could tell from his expression , he didn't understand my explanation , so being the kind of guy that takes in stray puppies , I made a day to take him to the range , and have a training expedition for him. He liked that. It is said around the neighborhood , this fellow has only one tool in his tool box , that being a check book. I don't charge him for what I do for him , but he is a never ending source of entertainment.. Gotta love it , I do what I can. ....................oldwood
 
Thank you all! Much easier to cut off and retap. Rod is plenty long enough to account for several disasters!
However, I ordered an extractor from McMaster Carr. It might be here today. I’ll add using it to my skill set. I have oil on the tip to help make it easier. Shipping costs more than the part.
 
if jag wasnt on there super tight a left hand drill bit might spin it out. center punch it with care.
This is an easy fix. I'm sure it isn't in loose as its likely been on there a while. So here's what I suggest. Before you go trying to drill it out put it in a vise or hold it and run a file across the face of the jag/stud to make it a flat surface. Then put the punch to it and drill it out.
If you don't want to go that route I have an even better easier solution. Instead of buying an easy out and another new jag, why not buy a new threaded rod end and a spin jag or other extended jag and cut your rod down.
Note: whenever I put a new end on a ram rod or range rod I always epoxy it and pin it in place using a small bit and a brass brad peened and filed smooth.
 
As I learn more I’ve changed how I do things. I’ve made and used many brass rod tips and jags but now I use steel for both. The rod tip still needs pinned to the rod and the jag is drilled and tapped to except another tool. This gives more length and the jag acts to center a screw. When cleaning the jag never touches the bore due to the patch so there’s no reason for brass.
B782DA75-9AE6-4670-86B1-A0EFC7B9B4A9 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
Think about this BEFORE you do ANYTHING --- that broken brass screw is either a #8 or a #10 size screw. #8 screw diameter is about 0.156" in diameter and a #10 size screw is about 0.190". How good of a hole driller are you? To use an "easy-out" first you will need a SMALL easy-out and then drill a SMALL hole in that SMALL brass screw and keep that SMALL hole in the center of a most likely not-flat-faced broken screw. SO - I ask again how good are at drilling small holes? My #1 choice would be to cut off the end of that range rod and drill and tap it for the new jag. My second choice would be buy a left hand drill bit and reverse drill the screw out - if possible.
I have a 12" X 36" lathe so I would chuck it in the lathe and drill out the broken screw but first I would use a small end mill to face off square that brass screw so the drill bit will not wander off center and mess up the existing threads.:thumb:;)
 
there is an interesting twist on this problem! (Grin)
last night, I put a drop of penetrating oil on the snapped off jag part. This afternoon, came down and looked at it, took a #11 knife blade and tried to move the jag. To my surprise, it easily moved, and came right out.
hurray for my 30 some year old penetrating oil
 
Most of my jags and cleaning accessories date from more than 35 years ago. Back then, I had not heard of not using all brass jags, with no steel in the threaded part. (Homer Simpson head slap here)!

My all brass jag broke off just as I was starting to run a patch down the barrel! No problem there, as it was easily removed.

However, my trusty Range Rod now has the threaded part of the jag broken off flush with the tip of the Range Rod. (Another Dope Slap here)!

I figure the best way to get the offending piece of brass out of the rod is by drilling a hole in it, and hitting my Ace Hardware store for an extractor. Forget what they are called. Probably an extractor!

I figure I am not the first guy this has happened to, so I thought I would post this before I order a bunch of new jags with steel threads.
Another life lesson learned.
as the guy said, “Coulda been worse”!
Crawfish
Cut off about a half an inch and drill/tap it, 8-32 or 10-32 whichever you use most.
 
As I learn more I’ve changed how I do things. I’ve made and used many brass rod tips and jags but now I use steel for both. The rod tip still needs pinned to the rod and the jag is drilled and tapped to except another tool. This gives more length and the jag acts to center a screw. When cleaning the jag never touches the bore due to the patch so there’s no reason for brass.
B782DA75-9AE6-4670-86B1-A0EFC7B9B4A9 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Where did you source the steel jag? I like the idea of using it to center a pulling screw. :thumb:
 
Maybe luck, but in 50 years of ml shooting I have never broken a brass thread jag. Admittedly steel is stronger but brass has never failed me.


Ive had two break. One on a range rod and one onboard. Both on 1:48 twist barrels. I think that may be a factor 🤔
 
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