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Removable Touch-hole Liner on Kibler?

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Put this on the threads, it comes in little tubes at an auto parts store, it doesn't wash off. I put it on my tractor's three-point hitch turn buckles, a whole season of bush hoging rough stuff and it is still there.

All of my breech plugs and touch hole liners have a liberal coating of this stuff on the threads.

anti sieze.jpg
 
Thanks,

I guess force-of-habit perhaps. I've always been a little hesitant about threaded steel parts exposed to water seizing up with rust over time. I take the liner out and clean it like any other moving part. Consequently, the liner is as bright and shiny in my Pedersoli rifles as they day I got them. It's hard for me to imagine not doing that, but if I'm wasting time/effort, maybe I have to revisit that.
Clean and dry post shooting. That’s the only rule. None of my liners are removable, however provided you clean and dry you’re doing it right.
When guns in your hand your not wasting time, your just enjoying the full flavor of ml.
 
If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist? Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill a hole in the barrel wall and call it good?

It's a wearing part. Removing, cleaning and greasing with molybdenum disulfide is a reasonable care practice, same as nipples on a cap and ball revolver or caplock rifle.
 
If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist? Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill a hole in the barrel wall and call it good?

It's a wearing part. Removing, cleaning and greasing with molybdenum disulfide is a reasonable care practice, same as nipples on a cap and ball revolver or caplock rifle.
You shouldn't be removing the nipples all the time, either.
 
White lightening liners exist because of the internal cone that positions a larger amount of the powder closer to the prime in the pan.

I have never removed a White Lightening liner and will not unless I see some eroding or enlargement of the touch hole, I haven't in the last 30-40 years but you never know.

I do remove the pins and remove the barrel to apply a good coating of RIG on the bottom of the barrels and do so regularly..... every 10-15 years or so 😂
 
The liners that Kibler installs are 5/16 x 32TPI. They are removed with an easy out. Removing one destroys it. Kibler used some kind of white stuff on the threads. They come out easy.

Then, find a slotted 5/16 x 32 TPI liner and possibly touch up the chamfer on the barrel.

The only reason I know about this is I did a percussion conversion on a Kibler SMR. I do not see any need to remove a liner for cleaning, I see no harm either.

If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist?

Because they bring the main charge right next to the pan prime. Ignition is much more reliable because of it. Drilled touch holes are not reliable for many shooters.
 
Yes, no need to remove a liner. We often have this question. Not sure why it is such a prevalent belief? Thanks to Mike, Dave and others for helping out.

Jim
Hey Mr K....sorry if slightly off subject...Will there be a Kibler open house this year?
 
The liners that Kibler installs are 5/16 x 32TPI. They are removed with an easy out. Removing one destroys it. Kibler used some kind of white stuff on the threads. They come out easy.

Then, find a slotted 5/16 x 32 TPI liner and possibly touch up the chamfer on the barrel.

The only reason I know about this is I did a percussion conversion on a Kibler SMR. I do not see any need to remove a liner for cleaning, I see no harm either.

If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist?

Because they bring the main charge right next to the pan prime. Ignition is much more reliable because of it. Drilled touch holes are not reliable for many shooters.
051CA4A7-3F68-43F5-861F-4949E447593D.jpeg
Is this one yours?
 
I might be wrong, but I’ve always thought the slotted liner was a result of the early, mass produced ML manufacturers desire to keep production costs down. The OEM’d liners were supplied to them by size, and just screwed into the finished barrel. Of course, the shooters felt that the slot was put their for the purpose of thorough cleaning and it soon became a standard. I used to take mine out, decades ago, but found it to be unnecessary, and more trouble/time then it was worth.
Hi

I'm probably in that category. When I first got into BP, I ruined a gun or two by not cleaning properly. Since then, anything that CAN come apart does when I clean. These guys that say they don't take the barrel off? That blows my mind because with my son's Kentucky (kit-built), we can SEE water get under the nose cap no matter how careful we are. So we assume it's under the stock, too.
 
Hi

I'm probably in that category. When I first got into BP, I ruined a gun or two by not cleaning properly. Since then, anything that CAN come apart does when I clean. These guys that say they don't take the barrel off? That blows my mind because with my son's Kentucky (kit-built), we can SEE water get under the nose cap no matter how careful we are. So we assume it's under the stock, too.
Does not matter if the stock is sealed and there is a good coat of RIG on the bottom of the barrel.
 
If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist? Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill a hole in the barrel wall and call it good?

It's a wearing part. Removing, cleaning and greasing with molybdenum disulfide is a reasonable care practice, same as nipples on a cap and ball revolver or caplock rifle.
The mere mention of removing a vent liner for cleaning has caused severe trauma and deep emotional wounding, please don't add to the pain.
 
My last thought on the removing the liner. I do not remove percussion drums for cleaning. I do not think it is a common practice. It is no different from the liner.

Is this one yours?

No, This is:
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DSCN0518.JPG
 
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Hi,

Well, although I fancy myself a pretty clever/resourceful guy, I'm not so smart that I can't learn from the wisdom or experience of others. Removing a liner seems logical to me. I've done it literally EVERY time I've cleaned my Pedersoli rock-locks. Out it comes, gets cleaned to a bright shine, lubed and threaded back in. Consequently, the area back there near the breach-plug is easier to see (to verify cleanliness, etc.). Now, that's what's intuitive to me. However, when the guy who manufactures the gun I'm about to build comes on and says 'don't', then I'd be opting for what 'seems intuitive' over the plain advice of someone who knows enough to manufacture popular BP gun kits for a living if I decided not to heed that. There's a word for that kind of mentality. It starts with 'f' and rhymes with 'mule.' My liner on this one won't be coming out unless/until it needs replacing. Done deal.
 
I had a friend now gone from cancer who had always pulled the drum out of his cap gun to clean it in spite of the builder telling him not to. It wasn't long before he had wallowed out the threads and needed a new over-sized drum. The builder fixed his gun for him but alas, he still thought he needed to pull the drum when he cleaned, the same thing happened again.
 
If removing and cleaning liners is a waste of time then why do they exist? Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill a hole in the barrel wall and call it good?

It's a wearing part. Removing, cleaning and greasing with molybdenum disulfide is a reasonable care practice, same as nipples on a cap and ball revolver or caplock rifle.
That’s the way old guns were. Liners were invented to repair holes that were worn on soft iron barrels
Removable was made for gun barrels that were made to fit drums or flint, and ofcouse for those who have loaded ball first.
 
It's amazing how these threads keep going even after those with literally decades of experience give the best answer...

It's like taking a multiple choice test, there is one best answer and it's been answered several times...
 
No offence to anyone. But I have a sign in my shop that says. " You can't fix stupid " You can show some people over and over but they still don't get it...
 

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