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QUESTION ABOUT ROUND BALLS + PATCHES

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APG

45 Cal.
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Recently got a .32 caliber muzzleloading flintlock rifle. The manufacturer says to use a .315 round ball with a .010 lubed patch. My figuring is that combination totals .325 . So would using a .310 plus a .015 patch be the same? Does that make sense? I tried shooting it using the .310 and .015 patch but ended up messing up the ball, it was really tight. Then tried .310 with a .010 patch which loaded much better but I'm not sure how it shot. It was really windy and I believe it blew my shots off course and the wind kept blowing away the powder in the pan.
 
Every rifle is different, but I'd try that combo you had issues with if I couldn't find a .315 ball. I'm surprised it was tight.

Lube can matter, patch material can matter, as can every variable. You just have to try different combinations. Don't give up on what you tried until you can shoot on a calmer day.
 
I would try the .310 ball and .10 patch and shoot from a bench to see how it groups at 25 yards. If you get decent groups, then try longer distance with that combo. Also you didn’t mention what type and how much powder. I would initially try changing how much powder before changing ball and patch size. Also a .32 isn’t going to carry well at longer distances on a windy day. 15 to 30 grains fff black powder is a good range to start with. I’d maybe try 20 as a start.
 
.335" total.
Unless you only patch one side of the ball ;)

I sure hope .315 balls work in mine. I ordered 500 of them o_O

What lube were you using?
Maybe polish the bore?

Keep us posted.
 
.335" total.
Unless you only patch one side of the ball ;)

I sure hope .315 balls work in mine. I ordered 500 of them o_O

What lube were you using?
Maybe polish the bore?

Keep us posted.
Oh I see what you did there. You went ahead and did it the right way. Being the patch is all around the perimeter no just one side of the ball. Man I'm telling you some days I wouldn't be able to find my head if it was screwed on. I was using an old tube of borebutter. The patch looks OK, the ruffled up edges was from cutting them to size from a .50-.54 caliber .010 patch. There was just too much patch material if I left it larger.
 

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I would try the .310 ball and .10 patch and shoot from a bench to see how it groups at 25 yards. If you get decent groups, then try longer distance with that combo. Also you didn’t mention what type and how much powder. I would initially try changing how much powder before changing ball and patch size. Also a .32 isn’t going to carry well at longer distances on a windy day. 15 to 30 grains fff black powder is a good range to start with. I’d maybe try 20 as a start.
That's what I was using a .310 ball and .010 pat patch. Seemed to work OK, shot consistently to the right. Heavy crosswind. I used 15 then 20 then 25 grains of 3fg. As far as shooting at 25 yards that a no go at the range, closest is 50 yards. Very limited in places to shoot around these parts. California is not a firearms friendly state. Surprised that they don't make me install some kind of catalytic converter for all the smoke it puts out.
 
Try the different combinations. Try and pick up you fired patches and look at their condition.


I've watched his videos and there pretty good. Hasn't put any out for awhile.
This is the only patch that I could find being windy that day. Looks alright. The frayed edges are from using dull scissors to trim down the patch from a larger patch. I'll get this thing dialed in eventually. Sure is a hoot shooting it. Got to get use to the fiddly little balls too.
 

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I've watched his videos and there pretty good. Hasn't put any out for awhile.
This is the only patch that I could find being windy that day. Looks alright. The frayed edges are from using dull scissors to trim down the patch from a larger patch. I'll get this thing dialed in eventually. Sure is a hoot shooting it. Got to get use to the fiddly little balls too.
Never mind the frayed edges, that's normal. Look at the inside ring. Notice that is is not burned. That means you have a good seal.
 
Never mind the frayed edges, that's normal. Look at the inside ring. Notice that is is not burned. That means you have a good seal.

I always wondered what we were looking for when someone says to look at your patches.

@APG , the only reason I caught that right away is because I was figuring out ball and patch size yesterday.
I was wondering if there's really much shooting difference between a .310 ball and .015 patching, and a .315 ball and .010 patching. It's only .005 difference in diameter/thickness, but someone said that even if it's a grain or two, the slightly heavier ball will fly better.
 
I use a .309 Lee cast roundball and a 12 thou's pillow ticking patch. It is a good fit and not difficult to push down onto the powder. I do not want a hard loading .32 with such a thin wood ramrod. I don't want to risk breaking the rod trying to hammer the ball down with a tight fit.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
As indicated by other responses, you will see there is nothing perzact or exact in this game. Do wat works. Sadly, many of us end up with several unused ball moulds for each rifle and a variety of patching laying around. Experiment and use what works best for you.
☝🏼☝🏼☝🏼 This is indeed good advice.

Manufacturer recommendations are just that. Recommendations.

Keep experimenting with ball size and patch thickness. You'll find the right combo that loads easy, but is 'tight' in the bore, and scrubs the fouling out. Personally, I think 'Lubes' are overrated. Spit is free, and it works for me.

Patching can be made out of dang near anything! If you find that a very thin patch is what you need, I would suggest an OP wad to help protect it from the fire.

If you have a deeper grooved rifling, I would suggest a smaller ball and a thicker patch. If the rifling is of shallow groove, a larger ball and a thinner patch would probably do better.
 
@APG actually your fired patch doesn't look very good. Fraying around the edges is normal but you are getting some cutting where the patch rides the bore. Polishing the bore and working on the sharp edges at the muzzle will help.
 
I use a .309 Lee cast roundball and a 12 thou's pillow ticking patch. It is a good fit and not difficult to push down onto the powder. I do not want a hard loading .32 with such a thin wood ramrod. I don't want to risk breaking the rod trying to hammer the ball down with a tight fit.
Ohio Rusty ><>
I went ahead and got a stainless steel loading rod just for the fear of snapping a wood rod.
 
@APG actually your fired patch doesn't look very good. Fraying around the edges is normal but you are getting some cutting where the patch rides the bore. Polishing the bore and working on the sharp edges at the muzzle will help.
That is on my things to do list on this rifle. That and checking the lock and polishing the surfaces on it. I had to take it out and shoot it before I got to that. Like a kid on Christmas that couldn't wait to play with his new toys.
 
I shoot a custom .32 r/b. I load with a Hornady #0 Buckshot which measures.320. 25 gr. 3f BP. .15 patch lubed with beeswax and olive oil. It’s a little snug getting started. I gently tap the ball with a small brass hammer, cut the patch at the muzzle. I then use a ball starter. Finish loading with a stainless rod and muzzle protector . That gun and load are super accurate at 25 yds.
9C6D270F-9754-4CA6-AB1A-EB0D6D658671.jpeg
EA976CDF-2441-4EDD-B023-9E4E35228BAE.png
 
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