Quality 1/16 drill bits

hawkenhunter50 said:

Tenon's are mild steel,

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Wood bit's are for wood. Metal bit's are for metal,, there is a difference.
It's OK to swap them out even while drilling the same hole.
I use Dewalt Wood bit's, and Dewalt metal bit's.
It's technique really, and not so much the fault of the bit.
A learning curve,,

necchi said:

Wood bit's are for wood. Metal bit's are for metal,, there is a difference.
It's OK to swap them out even while drilling the same hole.
I use Dewalt Wood bit's, and Dewalt metal bit's.
It's technique really, and not so much the fault of the bit.
A learning curve,,

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I used 5/64" instead of 1/16", anytime I could. They are much stronger.

I’ve seen a couple of videos on YouTube where concrete bits go through hardened steel.
What rpm should the thinner bit be running and any specific lubricant to use?

Capt. Jas. said:

www.mcmaster.com

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One of my favorites

A likely problem is pushing too hard once the drill breaks through the opposite side of your material. It's important to try to let up a bit when it's about to come through. You can usually feel and judge this with a bit of practice. Usually this is when small bits break

Thee are carbide steel bits that will drill through even another drill bit of non-carbide steel. They are useful in drilling vent holes in barrels of very hard steel, like Rayl barrels. They can be purchased from industrial supply companies.

I have been an aircrat mechanic for over 40 years. I always buy my drill bits from Pan American Tool. They sell all sizes of cobalt and carbide drill bits. I buy them by the dozen and they last for all kinds of medals.

https://www.panamericantool.com/

Do not use a carbide 1/16" drill unless it's in a very rigid machine such as a mill. In fact, there's little reason to use one at all for non-production work. Even harder barrel steel doesn't require it. High speed steel is good for considerably harder material than any barrel steel.

As James says, Stick with H.S.S. "Saliva" is a good old fashioned Drill lubricant. You choose how to apply it..O.D.

Clearing chips is important. Maple can bind it up. I get pretty good results in a press or mill with regular HSS bits. I like brass barrel lugs, easy to fit and drill.

McMaster-Carr Page:
McMaster-Carr

I cut tenons out of a small aluminum fixture I found at Hope Depot. Was 1/8 in thick, T shaped. Very strong, drill goes right through, will never be seen.

I doubt if your problem is the quality of your drill bits,I'd bet it's your technique. If you are using a hand drill, start out slow, once the drill begins to cut, increase your speed. 1/16 drill bits require a solid set up and a steady hand. A drill press and a rigid set up makes this job much easier.

I agree with the 5/64. I generally select the pins to match the drill bits. Finishing nails have worked well for years. I did buy some pins from track once and they are a bit heavier. I have used the finishing nails for a long time.
Drill bits that small I buy several at a time.
Generally I buy the best I can afford. But my advice is to have several on hand. Punches the size of what you are drilling are a must.

I’ve put Tracks 3/32” pins on two of my rifles and I’ll probably replace the 1/16” barrel pins with 3/32” on my SMR eventually. Even though I don’t take pinned barrels off very often, the larger 3/32” pins hold up much better in the long run.

No matter what kind of drill bit you are using always use a lubricating oil. It helps remove chips and cools the bit. I have used Boelube also. It was developed by Boeing Aircraft for production use but works great on all sorts ot metals. If you google it you will find lots of places that sell it.

Reno said:

I agree with the 5/64. I generally select the pins to match the drill bits. Finishing nails have worked well for years. I did buy some pins from track once and they are a bit heavier. I have used the finishing nails for a long time.
Drill bits that small I buy several at a time.
Generally I buy the best I can afford. But my advice is to have several on hand. Punches the size of what you are drilling are a must.

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Track's .093 pins are fantastic.

They are hard as a rock.

You'll wear out hacksaw blades cutting through them.

They look great when installed, not too big and .093 bits don't fracture like .062 bits do.

Zig is right! Run bits fast and slow feed. I used to break bits until I tried running faster.

If you're looking for the best bits available, you can try Norseman Drill and Tool, they make excellent quality bits, made in the USA. A relative uses some of their bits in his tool and die shop. They are not cheap, but are precision drill bits. You might have to contact a tool and die supply company to find exactly what you need. but as far as price goes, the sky is the limit.