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Im trying to not ask to much and be a pest.

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I draw file, but do 60% of smoothing with sandpaper and block. 220 good of browning, 330 good for in white.
tenngun is completely correct and is what I do but forgot to include in my description. Do your finish work with the sandpaper wrapped around your file. Same flat strokes, I’ll stop at 320/340 grit for browning and 400/600 grit for blueing.
 
I have one of those little wire brushes for files.
I use cheap files but some just don’t last very long. I think the big difference is tempering inconsistency.
I have one of those triangle files with two safe edges for marking pins before cutting from Brownells. You can make them if you have the equipment.
It matters how you will finish the barrel. A pretty good does of rust browning does not require to much past removing the machine marks.
 
But one question. I'm going to start on my 40 cal Vincent. My question is what file should I get to draw file the barrel ? It's a Colerain barrel. I'm going to buy a new file because I want to do the best work I can. I have a well used Nicolson mill badtard. It's went through the ringer and needs replaced. Tankyou very much

Im trying to not ask to much and be a pest.​

Ask away, this is why we joined this forum, to assist with and answer questions about ML building and repairs. Semper Fi.
 
Another thing; you only need to draw file the top, top obliques and the side flats, the rest doesn't show. I did all the flats on my first few guns and then thought "why". I did rough up the other flats with some 220 on a sanding block so my browning would be consistent.
 
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