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Cleaning .36 Seneca

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Okay so I just acquired a little .36 Seneca, most of my guns are flint and most of them have a traditional breech. I know with the TC and CVA they are different which now I have both.. with the TC do I need a rounded scraper for that style breech on that gun? Also how do you all go about cleaning your drums out on, well let me go one further how do you clean out your TC and how do you clean out your CVAs? I’m not exactly sure how the breeches are but I know they are different
 
All hooked breech rifles I have get the bucket cleaning method. Remove the barrel and nipple, put the breech end of the barrel in a bucket of water (soap) optional. Put a cleaning patch on your rod and start pumping it up and down. Change water and patches until it’s clean. Dry and oil. The pumping action will clean everything including the drum regardless of a normal breech or a patent breech. I’ve never needed a bore scraper.
 
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I use the flushing method for my hooked breech guns. I will use a sub caliber (30 or 22) brush with a patch to clean the chambered breech. Do not use a brush that is crimped but use one that has the wired looped. Also use a ramrod that has the tips pinned to the rod or a solid rod that has been threaded.
 
Y'know, I got a breech scraper, but I can't remember ever using it. I use a bucket of hot soapy (Murphy's Oil Soap) water, then rinse with hot tap water, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, blow any left over residue out, let it set for a while then put a patch with Bore Butter down the bore a few times. Put anti-seize on the nipple threads and an oiled patch on the nipple under the hammer and you should be good to go.

Should be able to use a .38/.357 jag to clean it using a standard 8-32 modern cleaning rod. Don't forget to use a bore guide.
 
Thank you guys for the answers! And yes you are right to each there own that’s why I’m asking trying to see what others do
No problem. You have kinda stumbled into the "Lubrication War". It can get kinda heated, but basically it's a matter of non-petroleum vs. petroleum based lubrication/bore protectants. My position is that what has worked for me for more than thirty years (closer to forty actually) is good enough and I don't let my guns go for very long without being shot and cleaned, so Bore Butter is more of a ball and bullet lube than a bore protectant so far as it concerns me.

Ballistol is something that lots of folks use these days. I've heard good things, but haven't tried it... at least not yet.
 
No problem. You have kinda stumbled into the "Lubrication War". It can get kinda heated, but basically it's a matter of non-petroleum vs. petroleum based lubrication/bore protectants. My position is that what has worked for me for more than thirty years (closer to forty actually) is good enough and I don't let my guns go for very long without being shot and cleaned, so Bore Butter is more of a ball and bullet lube than a bore protectant so far as it concerns me.

Ballistol is something that lots of folks use these days. I've heard good things, but haven't tried it... at least not yet.
Well I didn’t want to get anything started hahaha I just wanted to know the best way to clean with these little tunnels they put from the breech to nipple and from what I’m getting hot soapy water (and I’ll definitely try Murphy oil, I use that for patch lube anyway and like it) in a bucket is the ticket!
 
All hooked breech rifles I have get the bucket cleaning method. Remove the barrel and nipple, put the breech end of the barrel in a bucket of water (soap) optional. Put a cleaning patch on your rod and start pumping it up and down. Change water and patches until it’s clean. Dry and oil. The pumping action will clean everything including the drum regardless of a normal breech or a patent breech. I’ve never needed a bore scraper.
Amen, Bro. Enuf said.
 
No empirical data, or actual knowledge of why, but I still use boiling water with a dash of Dawn and a couple of glugs of household ammonia in the pan as I pump the patch up and down ... a practice I used on a Springfield product designed in 1903 when it was ignited with 1943-or-older fuel with corrosive "caps". Seems to work well, and the boiling water heats the barrel sufficiently to aid in drying moisture.
 
I’m going to try the hot water for sure, only reason I have stayed away from it was bc long time ago when I got my first muzzleloader I cleaned it with water and was so scared to get rust in it I didn’t use plan water anymore. I know the mixture I use obviously has water in it but just plan water worried me. But I’m going to give it a try again bc the warm water will definitely get rid of the salts
 
I’m going to try the hot water for sure, only reason I have stayed away from it was bc long time ago when I got my first muzzleloader I cleaned it with water and was so scared to get rust in it I didn’t use plan water anymore. I know the mixture I use obviously has water in it but just plan water worried me. But I’m going to give it a try again bc the warm water will definitely get rid of the salts
I only use warm tap water to clean all my BP guns, no soap. All you need is to flush the powder fouling out of the gun, make sure with dry patches and oil for rust prevention. I also have several breech scrapers that have never been used. I like Barricade for rust prevention.
 
I also do the hot water with an old deep sauce pan. No additives. I patch clean first to get the easy stuff out then do the pan.

For a TC you need the rounded scrapper in the event you decide you want one.
 
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