Brass furniture on ML...........

Guys, its a fact that I do not like brass on many ML. It's okay on a long rifle I reckon but that's about it for this ole boy. Be that as it is, I'm considering changing the brass appearance on one of my ML. So my question is, for those in the know, what is a good process and/or chemical for changing the brass appearance. I have seen where Birchwood Casey as Brass Black and Brown. Are either of those good products to use?

If I do this, its doubtful I would send the parts off to have it done.

Once any protective factory finish (usually clear lacquer) is removed from the brass, cold blue will darken the brass, even unto a black finish.

I, however, like to remove the coating & let my brass age naturally - as below.

I use cold blue to give it that instant patina look.

BC works well to color the brass. But it rubs off easily. A quality clear automotive finish can protect it well. But then deep scratches become a problem.

Paint the brass with nasty real black powder foulness add let it turn colors on its own.

And there's always high end coatings for unmentionables. Insanely durable finishes.

I used Oxpho-Blue and the patina it leaves does not rub off of brass. Once the brass is tarnished the only way of bringing it back is to polish it.

Good to know about BC's product.

Birchwood Casey aluminum black works.

^^^It rubs right off too.^^^

This is why I like iron mounted guns!

What did you rub it off with? I went back out to the shop and rubbed pretty hard on the piece in the photo with both my hand and a piece of buckskin and it seemed to stay on pretty well. I polished the piece before I put the black on it.

Pietro said:

Once any protective factory finish (usually clear lacquer) is removed from the brass, cold blue will darken the brass, even unto a black finish.

I, however, like to remove the coating & let my brass age naturally - as below.

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That's what one of mine looks like now.

The Crisco Kid said:

This is why I like iron mounted guns!

What did you rub it off with? I went back out to the shop and rubbed pretty hard on the piece in the photo with both my hand and a piece of buckskin and it seemed to stay on pretty well. I polished the piece before I put the black on it.

Click to expand...

An old t-shirt.

Rubbed off right after I applied it.

Maybe curing for a bit makes it more durable.

Time for another test.

I have used brass blk. its a stop gap n helps dull the brass to me

Okay, not the intent of this thread but since it has more/less turned into brass on ML thing, I did a little research on this subject. I'm sure some will argue it, but don't shoot the messenger.

According to this author, he contends it was more of a who could afford brass furnishings and who could not, type of thing.

If this information is correct, it would be likin to chrome wheels on our vehicles.

Then again, I always thought that the original Hawken's came with brass.

https://ehcnc.org/decorative-arts/historic-trades/the-kentucky-rifle/

I have opted for the natural aged patina on my guns. Its easy to do, you just have to be patient.

The Crisco Kid said:

Birchwood Casey aluminum black works.

View attachment 192439

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Two days have gone by, and that Aluminum Black is a very durable finish,

No amount off rubbing will remove it.

Appears to be more durable than BC Brass Black.

To quickly put a patina on shiny brass, fume it with white vinegar. It will leave the brass looking old.

I THINK brass was kept shiny on old guns. And I keep brass on this gun shiny now. But this is how it looked after just a few shooting sessions. Brass and black powder smoke tarnishes fast, and gets dull. I THINK it’s an old wives tale that brass will shine on the sun and give you away in the woods. Even bright brass is a poor reflector

Constant use and an occasional rundown with your old BP cleaning patches work for me.

My take on brass is this.

Brass melts at a much lower temperature than steel. Therefor it would cost less in natural resources to melt and pour brass then to melt and pour steel. Faster melting means you're not paying some guy extra wages to mind the furnace.

And brass being a much softer metal would require less labor to file and sand the part to finished dimension.

In the 1800s the world saw huge leaps in smelting technology. Better steel was being produced. Better steel would produce better files. Better files would make it easier to file and sand a steel part to finished dimension.

Hence steel on Hawkens versus brass on earlier guns.

.02