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Probably, it's a late 16th / early 17th century wheellock of pretty unique design. I haven't even been able to find some pieces or parts from the Rifle Shoppe that I could modify. So I plan to just start with junks of steel and file out what I need.

It can be done

This guy makes most of the parts with sawing, grinding, and filing from blocks of steel.
 
I have a TVM .50 cal. Leman, but I couldn't prove it by the rifle itself. I told them I didn't want a cheek piece on the stock and the price for that decision was no TVM markings on the rifle. No matter, it shoots straight without the cheek piece and markings.
 
Here’s my .36 Iron Pa and .62 Fowler. I couldn’t be happier as both are great shooters.
 

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Be careful not to put much side pressure on that stock or fall on it. The grain run through the wrist is very weak and prone to breakage. I think if it were mine I'd pull the lock and barrel and run a 5/16- 3/8 inch steel rod from the barrel breech area down through the wrist into the butt past the last grain ring and glass bed/epoxy in place. The rod will need to be offset and or altered to allow the tang and trigger plate screw clearance.
i thank you for the thought. a couple of years ago i posted a photo of my gun and people here told me the same thing as you. i was worried about it and asked a very good builder on this forum about it. he said there was nothing to fret over and just leave it as is. the gun is over 20 years old and no problems yet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
I had a beautiful Late Lancaster built per my specs by TVM a few years ago.

It turned out as the gun of my dreams I was hoping for! It took about a year, but it was well worth it.

I wanted extra fancy curly maple, a 44” long swamped barrel with 50 cal round bottom rifling, engraving and other brass bells and whistles.

I love shooting it and it’s a real tack driver! The RO’s all gather around when I bring it out. 😁

I highly recommend them!
 

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i thank you for the thought. a couple of years ago i posted a photo of my gun and people here told me the same thing as you. i was worried about it and asked a very good builder on this forum about it. he said there was nothing to fret over and just leave it as is. the gun is over 20 years old and no problems yet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Should be fine as long as you don't drop it or lean to hard on it sideways. I don't think recoil alone will break it but with all the wood removal for lock , tang and loading rod clearance it's asking a lot for such a weak grain run to stay together over time and use.
I'm really surprised any professional gun builder would have used that stock lay out!
 
I have more than just one TVM built gun. The first one I ever ordered from Matt took just about a year. I often had barrels/locks from other sources requested for the builds. Almost whatever you want in your gun can be ordered and used.

I have yet to figure out where this term "slab sided" came from. Just look at rifles from notable builders in museums & books and you'll find some that deserve that sorta description. My .50 "Frankenrifle" - an accurate, lightweight beauty is a one-of-a-kind like no other. I do own a TVM smoothbore that should have had a little more wood removed from the stock. But the only problem was a breakage in the Chambers lock which was fixed after I sent the lock back.

For the critics of these "slab sided" TVMs, here's a photo of my clunky .36 SMR.

PICT0550-zps981eb196.jpg
 
New here n there be 2 TVM , the original with Jack Garner off whom built my SPB .LH .40 cal back in 1980. He had sold that business to Matt Vance but has later opened another shop at his home in Corinth , MS. Matt moved his shop to Natchez, MS. I have seen some builds out of Matt's shop that i would not accept. Don't know who was doing the build work on them. Matt does a good job
 

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