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Well, it is a petroleum product, but it slowly evaporates, so when you shoot it after a few months, you don't get petroleum fouling. Not what I do, but if it works for you, then it works for you. Just curious, what do you use for powder and what do you use for ball and bullet lube?
Hi Dale. Of course I use black in my flintlock mainly 3F, and 4F to prime, but pretty much use 777 in my percussions because of the scarcity of finding black in Montana. I did experiment with Jim Shockley's gold, and it would work in my flintlock using 4F to prime but had a decidedly delayed firing. I don't load heavy, and that might make a difference, mainly punch paper. Lube is a whole new item. I have tried most milk, 2 kinds of hand cleaner, 1000+, kerosene, hoppes black powder number 9, frontier Gander's lube, Lanolin, and neats foot oil. I think that's about all. I did have a lube that I got from Tennessee, that really worked better than most, I think it was probably tallow and beeswax but I can't find it anymore, it used to be on the Internet. Moose milk worked fine, except when the patches were too dry at the right time of summer, I started some small grass fires and that put them on the no-no list. Fast orange hand cleaner was as good or better than most of them, bore butter 1000 works the best in the 1 in 60 twist 45. Not as good in the fifties that are 1 in 48. I'm patiently waiting for spring to try number 13 bore cleaner. I use a very tight patch but not a heavy charge, and they load fairly hard, so I'm going to experiment with a much lighter patch and see what it does to accuracy. I cast my own balls out of water pipe lead, weigh them and keep them within one grain of each other. My mold for my 45 is from Italy and actually cast balls that are .451 but they still seem to work okay. They do weigh 141 grains where they should weigh about 128. My 50 caliber balls are pretty much consistent at 177 but I did make some from wheel weight lead that weighed 173. I do have a .495 mold that makes 181 grain balls but I couldn't tell much difference in the loading or the shooting. None of the lubes were any more difficult to clean up with afterwards, I use warm water with sometimes a drop of soap, number 13 bore cleaner patches, and at the very end a shot of pure methanol of alcohol and blow it out with air. I clean my nipples, run that light patch of kerosene down the bore, and stand them barrel down. The next day run one more patch of kerosene and store them barrel down in just a dry room where there's no water close. All rifles are laid flat for the final patch runs with the kerosene patch.
As a young lad I religiously cleaned what guns I had every time I shot, have gotten old and crusty and some of the modern ones haven't been cleaned for years but the storage is probably the secret. Sorry for the long explanation.
Squint
 
Hi Dale. Of course I use black in my flintlock mainly 3F, and 4F to prime, but pretty much use 777 in my percussions because of the scarcity of finding black in Montana. I did experiment with Jim Shockley's gold, and it would work in my flintlock using 4F to prime but had a decidedly delayed firing. I don't load heavy, and that might make a difference, mainly punch paper. Lube is a whole new item. I have tried most milk, 2 kinds of hand cleaner, 1000+, kerosene, hoppes black powder number 9, frontier Gander's lube, Lanolin, and neats foot oil. I think that's about all. I did have a lube that I got from Tennessee, that really worked better than most, I think it was probably tallow and beeswax but I can't find it anymore, it used to be on the Internet. Moose milk worked fine, except when the patches were too dry at the right time of summer, I started some small grass fires and that put them on the no-no list. Fast orange hand cleaner was as good or better than most of them, bore butter 1000 works the best in the 1 in 60 twist 45. Not as good in the fifties that are 1 in 48. I'm patiently waiting for spring to try number 13 bore cleaner. I use a very tight patch but not a heavy charge, and they load fairly hard, so I'm going to experiment with a much lighter patch and see what it does to accuracy. I cast my own balls out of water pipe lead, weigh them and keep them within one grain of each other. My mold for my 45 is from Italy and actually cast balls that are .451 but they still seem to work okay. They do weigh 141 grains where they should weigh about 128. My 50 caliber balls are pretty much consistent at 177 but I did make some from wheel weight lead that weighed 173. I do have a .495 mold that makes 181 grain balls but I couldn't tell much difference in the loading or the shooting. None of the lubes were any more difficult to clean up with afterwards, I use warm water with sometimes a drop of soap, number 13 bore cleaner patches, and at the very end a shot of pure methanol of alcohol and blow it out with air. I clean my nipples, run that light patch of kerosene down the bore, and stand them barrel down. The next day run one more patch of kerosene and store them barrel down in just a dry room where there's no water close. All rifles are laid flat for the final patch runs with the kerosene patch.
As a young lad I religiously cleaned what guns I had every time I shot, have gotten old and crusty and some of the modern ones haven't been cleaned for years but the storage is probably the secret. Sorry for the long explanation.
Squint
Thanks for the long explanation, it was actually very informative. I haven't had much luck using 777 in any of my guns unless I use a 7-grain ignition charge of 3f black powder. Before I started doing that, I had about a 50% misfire rate. I'll be going to black powder exclusively I think as soon as I can get more.
 
Finally took the time to try out the Williams peep sight I put on my Renegade. I left the rear sight on to aid the peep alignment and I plan to just leave in on now. The peep sight did help, target was clear at 50 yrds and doable at 100.
I was using .490 RBs, .020 lubed patches. And loads ranging from 60-80 grs of 2F Goex. On some loads I used a lubed OP wad but mostly did not. The 5 shot group at 50 yrds is with 70 grs. Made some shots at 100 but they were terrible 6”-7” groups. Also played with my Lyman “Eye Pal” but didn’t shoot with it, couldn’t get it positioned properly so can’t say yay or nay on it yet. Was disappointed with the 100 yard performance but I’m not hitting on all 8 cylinders today. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it!
 

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Thanks for the long explanation, it was actually very informative. I haven't had much luck using 777 in any of my guns unless I use a 7-grain ignition charge of 3f black powder. Before I started doing that, I had about a 50% misfire rate. I'll be going to black powder exclusively I think as soon as I can get more.
I think that's probably a good move if you can get black. The smoke and smell is worth something. I did bore the nipples out on my muzzleloaders to a .031. A factory nipple is generally about .026. I figured that would give me trouble for misfires with 777. The dangers of increasing the nipple size, is with maximum loads you might get hammer reset, which I understand is hard on rifles. I did purchase a secondhand 45 caliber that would reset the hammer with medium loads and discovered that the nipple was .037. I can purchase black, but I certainly don't need 5 pounds, and that's about what I would have to order to come out on pricing. I have enough black for my flintlock for some long time, and I'm already in my 80s. I'm not a purist to the point that I have to have black. Volume measuring 777 probably give me more shots than an equal pound of black powder, as it is a lighter charge.
Squint
 
Those 5 shots a 50 are better than I can do sir! I’m still trying to determine what charge is accurate out of my .50 Hawken. I’m using triple 7 FFG.
 
been shooting the trapper every day. Had a bad day where I couldn't hit anything and had to break out some paper to figuer things out. Think my front sight must have got whacked. anyways she is shooting good again @ 30 yards. haven't been brave enough to try 60 yrds in a few days.. today was spitting snow and drizzel. that kind of weather where the smoke just hangs low after every shot so that you have to move over a bit one way or the other to see your target after every shot. One of my shots made a perfect smoke ring that just floated across the yard.
 
Those 5 shots a 50 are better than I can do sir! I’m still trying to determine what charge is accurate out of my .50 Hawken. I’m using triple 7 FFG.
It’s trial & error for me I assure you. Sometimes I wish I only had one rifle. What slows me down is jumping from one to another before I really get the first dialed in. I started keeping a notepad with me to keep track of each session which helps.
 
could not get my fowler to fire yesterday. tore it down today and drilled and tapped for a ox-yoke vent liner.
still hit or miss. brain started thinking(always bad) and i loaded 10g ffff and chased it with 80g ff
fired every time with that.
got to dig through my stash and try a fff load.
shot my .54 lyman flint just to verify that the powder wasn't damp. 10 shots with Maxie balls. i really like the Lyman.
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Received a new 578 Lee Minie ball mold. I hope this larger size will tighten my groups. I've been casting Lyman 575213 OS and regular, but these are too small, some will print sideways out of a clean barrel.
these
 
I completed a rifle today. I help out Ray at, 'Sitting Fox Muzzleloaders' when he gets behind. This one goes out to a fella' in Connecticut. .36 cal. 'A' profile swamped barrel Southern Mountain Rifle with a Durs Egg Lock from L&R. The finish is 3 coats of Tung Oil dried 24 hours between coats. Then Briwax. 1st waxing 48 hours after 3rd coat of Tung Oil, then 2nd Briwax 12 hours after 1st waxing. Hope he likes it. Semper Fi.

Capalupo 36.JPG
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Capalupo 36a.JPG

Cap.JPG
 
It’s trial & error for me I assure you. Sometimes I wish I only had one rifle. What slows me down is jumping from one to another before I really get the first dialed in. I started keeping a notepad with me to keep track of each session which helps.
Up till now, I've been concentrating on my stepson's .54 cal renegade who will take possession as soon as he gets his possession and acquisition license. I have his PRB dialed in for 60 meters with 80 gns of triple 7. Now I'm going to work on Alice's rifle and mine. I can understand the confusion.
 
It’s trial & error for me I assure you. Sometimes I wish I only had one rifle. What slows me down is jumping from one to another before I really get the first dialed in. I started keeping a notepad with me to keep track of each session which helps.
There's an ol' saying, "Beware of the man who only has one gun. You can bet he knows how to use it". Although I have many, I only use one for serious shooting and hunting. Semper Fi.
 
The wife and I are now in Washington, Ok visiting the kids and grandkids.
Somehow someway I want to visit a club near okc.
It always has something listed in the magazine but I'll have to google for it.
 
Finally took the time to try out the Williams peep sight I put on my Renegade. I left the rear sight on to aid the peep alignment and I plan to just leave in on now. The peep sight did help, target was clear at 50 yrds and doable at 100.
I was using .490 RBs, .020 lubed patches. And loads ranging from 60-80 grs of 2F Goex. On some loads I used a lubed OP wad but mostly did not. The 5 shot group at 50 yrds is with 70 grs. Made some shots at 100 but they were terrible 6”-7” groups. Also played with my Lyman “Eye Pal” but didn’t shoot with it, couldn’t get it positioned properly so can’t say yay or nay on it yet. Was disappointed with the 100 yard performance but I’m not hitting on all 8 cylinders today. That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it!
I installed a Williams FP Hawken sight on mine as well. Did you need to change the front sight to a higher blade too?
 
I installed a Williams FP Hawken sight on mine as well. Did you need to change the front sight to a higher blade too?
No, my Renegade was already fairly well sighted in. I adjusted the peep until it lined up with the normal front/rear sight picture. Still have some minor adjustments to make, but my Renegade has a generously high front sight already.
 
Read two more chapters of Rifles of Colonial America Vol II. Took notes. Updated my notes on my current build. I like to document each step along with sketches and call out mistakes I made so I can improve on the next build.
After lunch I will go downstairs to my shop and work on the build.
 
No, my Renegade was already fairly well sighted in. I adjusted the peep until it lined up with the normal front/rear sight picture. Still have some minor adjustments to make, but my Renegade has a generously high front sight already.
My front sight was too low I suspect as I was hitting 8" too high at 50 meters. that is using 80 gns of triple 7 and a .535 PRB.
 
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