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Jimminy Crocketts Batman!

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ORBushman

"In the Woods"
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Starting the preliminaries on my Crockett rifle. Looked like a bomb went off inside with all the stragglers needing trimmed off! Used an X-acto knife for this part. @TacoTony

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Next, I started making sure pieces fit. Salute to the inventor of the Dremel Tool! :thumb:

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Pre assembly complete. Next will start on some sanding tomorrow.

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I absolutely do not like the aluminum ramrod! I think it will get replaced with a brass one from the Log Cabin Shop.
 
If you sand with the brass butt plate removed the stock will take on a rounded shape at the edges of butt end. Better to leave the butt plate in place. This will also eliminate proud wood and metal. Brass can be fine sanded and polished later to eliminate the initial sanding scratches.

This is my tecnique, others on this forum may have different advice.
 
Maybe you elaborate a tad with your comments? Not everyone knows what your referring to with:

"Uhm? Aren't you going to shape the panels, square the trigger guard, get the butt to fit the comb or remove that belly?"

Inquiring mind want to know what experience observations see that a novice doesn't. I'm refereeing to me being the novice. Tnks!
 
Welcome to the forum !

The panels referred to are the overly-large flat surface into which the lock plate is inletted.

They are left over-size in gun kits, so the assembler/builder can reshape them to more pleasing likes.

If you google "percussion rifles" you can surf though pics of all the differently-shaped panels for examples of the various results.


The brass buttplate's exterior lines and the edges where it abuts the wood of the stock should lie perfectly flush to the wood, so the buttplate looks integral to the stock wood, only made of brass - as posted above.

The wood should be sanded flush with the buttplate installed, so both get finished to the same level at the same time, (touching up the brass surface separately, after the sanding is done).

I have no clue as to what "square the trigger guard" is about.

As tempting as it is to use power tools, IMO the best results are achieved without using any (except a carefully-handled drill) - power "oop's" are very hard to correct.
 
After sanding, I got the stock stained and the barrel and under rib blued. I'm disabled and don't have a shop so, all work is done from my living room floor. Not looking to build a custom rifle, just something to hunt tree rats with.

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Then I got the front sight installed. Having trouble with the rear one so, gonna have to call in a life line!

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3 coats of boiled linseed oil. I really like the color as it was what I was shooting for as far as being dark.

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Some light strokes with a small triangular file will fix it.

Go slowly. A few strokes and try it again. The correct size dovetail will sneak up on you quickly.

Having a safe side on the file is a real plus.
 
Welcome to the forum !

The panels referred to are the overly-large flat surface into which the lock plate is inletted.

They are left over-size in gun kits, so the assembler/builder can reshape them to more pleasing likes.

If you google "percussion rifles" you can surf though pics of all the differently-shaped panels for examples of the various results.


The brass buttplate's exterior lines and the edges where it abuts the wood of the stock should lie perfectly flush to the wood, so the buttplate looks integral to the stock wood, only made of brass - as posted above.

The wood should be sanded flush with the buttplate installed, so both get finished to the same level at the same time, (touching up the brass surface separately, after the sanding is done).

I have no clue as to what "square the trigger guard" is about.

As tempting as it is to use power tools, IMO the best results are achieved without using any (except a carefully-handled drill) - power "oop's" are very hard to correct.
Thank you!
 
File off the underside of the sight. Never file the barrel. The sight is cheaper to replace if you take to much material. If you do make it to loose dimpel the barrel with a center punch.
 
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