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New Veteran Arms Charleville Musket frizzen/spring questions

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22dr45

32 Cal
Joined
Aug 23, 2022
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Location
central Ohio
Received my new musket yesterday. Other than the Styrofoam packing peanuts VERY happy with it. Ordered it with some spare flints, a sling and a brass flash guard. I think I have the sling right, buckle away from the wood on muzzle end ring. Lace up loop on the buttstock end bitter end against the wood. Can anyone confirm?
The big question.
How to get the frizzen spring back on. I removed the spring so I could remove the frizzen screw and install the brass flash guard. That is done and re-installed. However Now I can't squeeze the spring enough to start the screw. Tried squeezing then zip tie but thus far no luck. Is there a trick I'm missing? Should I put the spring on first then the frizzen screw? Little help here.
 
Ideally going forward you will want tp purchase a Spring Vice for working on V-shaped springs, like shown, example frizzen spring shown in red.

If you want to move forward - at your own risk - one can pad the heck out of locking vice grip jaws to help on the install. But always have the jaws set WIDER than you think you will need, do not try to crimp it closed, only moving the leaf enough to effect a safe install. Also stay as far away from the U-bend of the spring as possible (NOTE of which I did not depict in my rough drawing, lol!).

Vice.jpg
 
I agree with the spring vice. It will save you a lot of headache and you will need it going forward for maintenance on you musket any way. It's a sound investment for anyone owning a flintlock.
 
I don't know the configuration of your particular lock but I have used this method on dozens and dozens of locks right and left handed.
The bottom of the pan acts as the fulcrum. Just take enough pressure off the frizzed to get your screw started. Some locks are shaped such that just squeezing the screwdriver and the lock gently will relieve the pressure and you have a free hand to deal with the screw, on this lock the screwdriver handle is against my stomach and I rotate the lock slightly relieving pressure with one hand, the other is free to deal with the screw.
IMG_0657.jpeg


Tension is relieved through the entire leaf of the spring and not just one spot. Good luck!!!!
Robby
 
I don't know the configuration of your particular lock but I have used this method on dozens and dozens of locks right and left handed.
The bottom of the pan acts as the fulcrum. Just take enough pressure off the frizzed to get your screw started. Some locks are shaped such that just squeezing the screwdriver and the lock gently will relieve the pressure and you have a free hand to deal with the screw, on this lock the screwdriver handle is against my stomach and I rotate the lock slightly relieving pressure with one hand, the other is free to deal with the screw.
View attachment 181381

Tension is relieved through the entire leaf of the spring and not just one spot. Good luck!!!!
Robby
I must be looking at it wrong. I considered trying to do something similar but with the screw removed it only pushes it further away
 
I guess I am not understanding you. I would remove the frizzed fully attach the spring and then proceed to re-install the frizzed.
Robby
 
normally you would compress the spring in the lock ..[ by opening frizzen or cocking cock to compress main spring ] than clamp on the spring vise, tighten a bit and release the cock or frizzen. leaving it compressed in the vice to reassemble
 
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