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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

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I made up some antique looking cap tins for use with my various cap and ball revolvers, with labels that I acquired from kh54 on this sight. Now I will have to defarb the revolvers because now they look too new, shine and fancy next to the tins. Does it ever end? View attachment 179994
They look fantastic. I looked at the tins before I read your comments. They look 100% authentic. Where did you buy the metal from?

Some creative souls on this forum.
 
Spent the entire day in a log cabin showing kids how to dip candles, talked to visitors about the builder of the cabin ( in 1787 ) at the Frontier Christmas Festival in my hometown.

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They look fantastic. I looked at the tins before I read your comments. They look 100% authentic. Where did you buy the metal from?

Some creative souls on this forum.
They are the tins from CCI and Remington caps that I save after using up the caps. I burn the enamel off of them by placing them on the wood stove I use to heat my cabin. That also imparts a nice patina on the metal in addition to ridding them of their paint. The labels take on the aged appearance by the drop of melted beeswax that I rub into the label after gluing them to the tins. The wax also provides a bit of protection to the labels.
 
Shot my .45 Late Lancaster flintlock at a black powder shoot at a new club I joined while I’m in Florida for the winter. Good group of shooters and very welcoming to a new comer.
 
Yesterday, Saturday, I went to my club shoot with my .62-20 smoothbore flintlock and practiced shooting it. Trying to learn to shoot a flintlock. Got all seven shots on paper and four of them in the black. All at 25 yards which isn't really great for some but it is for me. It was a lot better than the last time I took it out to shoot.
 
I went hunting with my TC with a GM barrel yesterday evening, I was in a new stand and shouldered my rifle to check limb clearance once I got in the stand, I could see my front sight bead was bent to the side. I remember catching the sight on a bush when I walked out of the woods the other day but didn't think anything of it. The GM sight has a very small brass bead and looked flimsy when I bought the barrel.

I tried tapping the bead over with my pocket knife, it didn't bend back but it looked like the sight moved in the dovetail. I decided I would be an observer instead of a hunter until I got the sight fixed or replaced.

When I got back to the shop I lightly tapped the sight and it came out of the dovetail, I decided to replace the sight with a TC Renegade sight which is a lot more substantial and perfectly matched the 15/16-barrel flat side to side. The dovetail fit was very loose so I used the usual tricks to tighten it up.
I needed to check the zero after adding a new sight, I was shooting a .526 ball and a .022 denim patch which was tight but shot well. I only had five .526 balls and hoped this was enough to check my gun, it wasn't. With the new sight my gun was way off.

I decided my rifle was too tight to load in the field as a hunting rifle with the .022 patch and changed to a .015 ticking patch, I had a few more balls in loading block and found with tight patch combo I couldn't push them out of the block, I had to use a hammer and punch to get them out, another reason to use a thinner patch. After some sight adjustment I drilled the bull and called it quits.

It bugs me not to have any cast balls the size I needed so I fired up my Coleman stove and cast enough .526s to last me a while.
 
I went to the range and shot my Kibler smr today. I went a little late in the afternoon and had a little trouble seeing my front sight against the target. It was still fun making smoke.

I tried out my bear grease I rendered yesterday. I got to much on. Gonna figure out a better way to apply it.
 
Beefed up the threaded area of the tang and cut the pocket for it.

Need to pull the trigger on this reverse tang screw idea. Time to drill some holes. And tap some of them.

Squared the butt up. Need to order a simple trade gun butt plate from Track.

Whittled the stock down a bit. And laid out a few lines.
 

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had not shot since I bought my new place nov 22nd. too busy trying to get it painted and functional. finally shot the trapper at the new place today. it had been loaded for a few weeks without shooting to the first cap was a missfire. took the little screw out and pored a bit of powder in there. put the clean out screw back on and a big bang and a miss ;) figuered out the range after a few shots. its a downhill shot so my first shots were high. finally hit the steel twice in a row and then went back to work.
 
Rasped the belly into shape.

Now I have a better understanding of where the trigger, trigger plate, trigger guard and tang screw goes.

Laying everything out for a reverse tang screw install. The original hole on the antique trigger guard can be used as a tang screw attachment point. Need to add a 1/8" steel tab under the 1/8" tang to provide more 10-32 threads.

I'd like to hear more from the ML brain trust before proceeding. Drilling holes is something you can't come back from.
Use a centering post. I made this one out of a bolt. Mark centers with a punch. Drill half way, flip it over drill.
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Hatchet-Jack

That is some next level ingenuity right there. I don't care what skill level a person has. There are always news tricks to be found in someone else's workshop. Thank you.

Is the idea to not move the table while performing each operation? Table stays put. Pin stays put. And just flip the stock over as needed.
 
It has been a good winter day. I spent four hours out in a -7C overcast day running the snowblower to cut a lane down to the forest service road below my cabin, just in case I should have need to go to town anytime soon.
Then I thawed out reclining by the wood stove under a four point Hudson Bay with a cup of hot tea while watching a movie I never get tired of watching. Sure do wish they had made a prequel and sequel.
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Hatchet-Jack

That is some next level ingenuity right there. I don't care what skill level a person has. There are always news tricks to be found in someone else's workshop. Thank you.

Is the idea to not move the table while performing each operation? Table stays put. Pin stays put. And just flip the stock over as needed.
Thanks I can't take the credit. This technique is pretty old.

You need to center the tip of the drill bit to the tip of the post. Do this by lowering the bit until it touches then tighten the post nuts and lock the table in place so you have enough height for the gun. I don't move it after that, but if I had to it would be fine as long as it's lined up. It also helps to have a stand to rest the gun on. I made one out of an old microphone stand. When you drill just be sure nothing moves.

Good luck!
 
Got an EiE 38 remington...That was rode hard and put away wet..never cleaned except for the barrel and swabing of the cylinder.. Did the ripe down to get to one stuck nipple..I heated it a bit oiled it a bit.beat it abit..bent the handle on the nipplewrench which amazed me my grip anit what it was...any thoughts ..more heat ..or where to heat ..or the electrolysis tank...screw loose .
It took seven days of applying PB Blaster penetrating oil daily to the nipple on a CVA Hawkin that had been stored for twenty years before it decided to come out. Plus, you feel all virtuous for being patient (maybe) lol.
 
New twist. The cabin was so cold when I got home last night that I couldn't get any bore butter out of the tube for cleaning.
 
Like striking gold. I shoot lefty and because I couldn't find one I purchased a RH Investarms .50 cal Hawken last week. I went through a big learning process to get the triggers right. Now today poking around the internet I find that Muzzleloaders.com has just gotten in an order of Investarms left hand .50 cal. Bridger Hawkens so I ordered one. Euro Walnut stock also. With what I learned on the first gun I feel pretty confident in tuning up the new one. I may sell the RH. Has not been fired yet. Or may keep it as a fireplace decoration.
 
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