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Tap and Die Set

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Here are some images for the context of that I want to build:
27931273_5bbccf0eac_o.jpg
27931274_f237d09667_o.jpg

Luntenschlosse _1510, _1630 u. _1650, Juni 08. 1b kl (2).jpg

Luntenschlosse _1510, _1630 u. _1650, Juni 08. 1c kl (2).jpg

https://www.feuerwaffen.ch/index_htm_files/Draw_10_TargetTinder.pdf
Arquebuse à mèche | Musées d'art et d'histoire de Genève

Once again, I am new to this, so bear with me if anything is dumb or does not make sense.
I am trying to do it without forging anything. For the two springs, I am planning on cutting a sheet of flat spring into the two pieces
My main interests for the screws:
Attaching the trigger and sear flat spring to the lockplate
Creating a dowel with threads on each end to screw into the disk for the trigger button and then through the previously mentioned trigger spring.
I am going to create notch on the serpentine spring to maintain its vertical position in a corresponding grove in the lock plate. I am then going to have a screw hold it against the lock plate.
I have not fully planned this one yet, but I am thinking of having a bolt to connect the serpentine to the nut the serpentine spring acts on.
 
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Do not buy tap or die sets that is a waste of money. Just buy the size you will use the most for the project you are building. Buy H.S.S. ones not the carbon steel ones. Buy a good tap and die wrench and tapping fluid. Drill and tap straight and your chances of breaking a tap will be small. Buy a book on how to use a tap & die and what size drill to use for a 75% thread engagement which is used most often for screws and threaded holes. I also prefer adjustable dies so that you can get the thread fit you want.
 
Flint62Smoothie said:
Many times, like on wheellocks and snaphaunces, the post or part was put through a piece or mating part and a simple metal tapered 'peg' them held the item in place. Or, the end of the piece was peened over.
Click to expand...
I watched a tutorial on peening and that is definitely more appropriate for most of what I am trying to do. I think I still need to make threads for a couple of pieces, though.
 
OSG, Widia, and YGG. I use spiral fluted (pulls chips out) and spiral point taps (pushes chips ahead of the tap). I really despise old school plug taps at this point in the game! YGG is some amazing tooling for a great price. They are Korean but most USA tool companies import their tooling and then charge you more for it so who cares at this point. Last Sandvik stuff I bought said "Made in India" on it! lol
 
Hi,
I would buy taper, plug, and bottoming taps in each of the following sizes:
6-32, 6-40, 8-32, 10-32, and taper and plug taps in each of the following sizes 1/4-20, 1/4-28, and 5/16-32. The smaller sizes are good for lock and tang bolts and lock screws. The larger sizes are used for top jaw screws and vent liners.

dave
 
I have a large set up to 3/4" and a small set up to 1/2". The small set is Mac, they've been good taps.
 
64Springer said:
Take a look at Grainger online.

They carry Cleveland and Greenfield.

Take your crying towel with you.

You may need your blanky too.
Click to expand...
VAN said:
A spring loaded tap guide is handy to get straight threads if you have a drill press and vise. I just threaded a hole in a flint barrel for a vent liner and always use this setup where possible. The spring loaded point keeps downward pressure on the tap as you turn it. I always use thread cutting oil and thankfully have never broken a tap. A quart of the old Mitee brand oil has lasted me 20 years.
Click to expand...
I can't say that I haven't broke a tap. I was working on a frame that had two layers of metal. When the tap went through the first layer and started through the second one the tap broke. I have tapped more holes than can be counted but the broken tap one I have never forgotten. If a person has never used a tap and die set they should practice first before trying on their work. Removing a broken tap can make a man use words that would make a sailor blush.
P.S. you might want to use a thread guage before tapping as well?
 
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I have a sight that came with #8-40 screws, a strange size for me.

https://www.mscdirect.com/ they bought all of Enco and carry a wide variety of tools from various manufacturers, but some of these gun specific sizes might not be in their catalog. Some of the import stuff is good quality, do not discount some things coming out of Europe.
 
64Springer said:
What size treads are you trying to cut?

Just buy taps and twist drills for those specific sizes.

No need to buy 7/16 and 1/2 taps if all you're doing is 8-32.
Click to expand...
The nice thing about grainger is you can buy individual taps. As stated you don't need a full set of cheap taps and dies. I call them my 1 and done tools because that is what they are good for.
 
64Springer said:
For small threads spend big money.

You want well made taps. A small weak tap can very easily shatter. Especially in blind holes. If you have blind holes, you'll need plug or bottom taps depending on how deep you need to go are can go.

If you go cheap, your next thread will be "How Do I Remove A Shattered Tap"

And remember the single greatest machining formula ever invented.1 over N. Meaning 1 divided by number of threads. This will give you a number that you subtract from the tap O.D. size. Which will result in the size of twist drill you will need for the hole.

For example: 1/4-20 thread. 1 divided by 20 is .050. So .250 minus .050 is .200 drill size.

For example: 3/8-16 thread. 1 divided by 16 is .062. So .375 minus .062 is .313 drill size. Or 5/16" drill.
Click to expand...
They make charts for that.
No maths involved.
 
dave_person said:
Hi,
I would buy taper, plug, and bottoming taps in each of the following sizes:
6-32, 6-40, 8-32, 10-32, and taper and plug taps in each of the following sizes 1/4-20, 1/4-28, and 5/16-32. The smaller sizes are good for lock and tang bolts and lock screws. The larger sizes are used for top jaw screws and vent liners.

dave
Click to expand...
Greg_E said:
I have a sight that came with #8-40 screws, a strange size for me.

https://www.mscdirect.com/ they bought all of Enco and carry a wide variety of tools from various manufacturers, but some of these gun specific sizes might not be in their catalog. Some of the import stuff is good quality, do not discount some things coming out of Europe.
Click to expand...
These are the sizes I'd recommend. I have most of them and they've suited my needs.
 
I have used Brownells taps for replacing Bead sights and for tapping an unmentionable shotgun. Worked fine.
 
Dave’s answer covers about all you need to start with. If you have a good local hardware store just buy as needed. Avoid 6/32 if at all possible it’s a weak screw and fragile tap too coarse thread for its dia. The touch hole taps can be ordered from Chambers with their liners. BJH
 
Flint62Smoothie said:
I'd just get taps in 6-32, 8-32 and maybe 10-32 (used on some longrifle locks) and have at it. FWIW I've never seen anything smaller than that 'about' the size of a #8 in any original period piece, so doubtful you'd need a #4. Just built 2 matchlock lock assemblies using #8 fasteners. Many times, like on wheellocks and snaphaunces, the post or part was put through a piece or mating part and a simple metal tapered 'peg' them held the item in place. Or, the end of the piece was peened over.

Ensure the correct tap drill. I'd not use that formula posted above ... my machinsts training wouldn't allow me to, LOL!

I also disageee with some of what was posted above. Former machinist, GE Aircraft Engines ... and former gunsmith ... and I use your common hardware store taps all the time on basic steels or brass. Now sure, if I was tapping a known hard receiver on an expensive modern bolt action, then I'd pull out my best tooling. However, early arms are made from your mild, basic steels.

The TIP is to use GOOD technique! When drilling, never drill straight for the final size, always sneak up on it in at least 1/16th inch increments, or 32nds for smaller holes. This does things - with THE MOST IMPORTANT is that (1) it work harden the hole and (2) makes your drill bits last longer. I also always start any hole with a countersink 'center drill' bit.


When tapping, keep it SQUARE - no wobble! Once started and you feel the teeth bite, cut no more than half a turn and back off the tap until you hear/feel the chip break. Also lubricate the tap. You don't need any fancy tapping fluid, use kerosene or at least WD40. Periodically remove the tap and clear the chips. MOST time taps break is because people work hardened the piece by drilling the tap hole TOO aggressively or that they are way too hasty and don't break the chips or clear the chips out. So be smart, be patient, and take it slow ...

PM or message me as may be needed ...

CS Center drills shown. A variety pack of the 5 sizes can be had for $20 or so online.
View attachment 177551
Click to expand...
“When tapping, keep it SQUARE - no wobble! …”. Absolutely. I’ve messed up lots of threads by getting in a hurry and not keeping things lined up straight. Nowadays I keep the workpiece clamped in the same jig for both the drilling and tapping operations
 

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