• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Queen Anne.....She's Sooooo HOT!!!

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

64Springer

75 Cal.
Joined
Oct 26, 2022
Messages
5,691
Reaction score
14,122
Location
The Meat Counter.
The new L-R Queen Anne lock arrived today. Love me some Brown Truck.

I have limited knowledge with flintlocks. Is the lack of pan depth there for the builder to adjust fore/aft/depth?

The bolster measures .315 inches from the bolster/barrel seam to the outer face of the plate. Should my rough stock/blank thickness be .315 + 1.200 Breech + .315? Tack on an additional .062 inches for comfort and oops?

Also, I feel like I should be wearing chain mail gloves. Lots-O-Sharp Edges on this lock. Do you guys debur and polish your mainsprings? I could skin a squirrel with the way it is now.

As always, Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1235.JPG
    IMG_1235.JPG
    798.2 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_1236.JPG
    IMG_1236.JPG
    833.7 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_1237.JPG
    IMG_1237.JPG
    746.6 KB · Views: 0
Locks like that do need polishing. The pan looks ok to me. Keeps you from over filling.
Thank you.

I'll be keeping the as-cast texture and browning it. It will match the rusty, crusty, pitted finish of the antique barrel.

Yet another question: The horizontal line just above the pan is the centerline of the bore and where the vent liner is. Is this right? Just draw a line around the lock plate now? After I thin the blank down some of course.

Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1241.JPG
    IMG_1241.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Just shy of the breech width. But it's to depth.

Jumbo marker time.

One member here said it took him four years to build his gun. I can see why.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1257.JPG
    IMG_1257.JPG
    897.6 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_1253.JPG
    IMG_1253.JPG
    406.8 KB · Views: 0
The i
What @tenngun said. If you’re not going to polish the outside that’s a personal choice, but the tumbler, sear, and springs need polishing. I’d polish the pan too. Nice lock.
The internals are really bad.

I expected better. Is it common for all lock makers to be this rough on the inside? I heard good things about L-R.
 
Is this also normal? The old rusty, crusty plate is dead flat across the back. I'd have happily paid another 75 bucks for a lock that didn't look like a drunken beaver on quaaludes chewed on it.

Is a 1/32" bow from tip to tail going to be a problem? I have a copper hammer. And I'm not afraid to use it.

Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1268.JPG
    IMG_1268.JPG
    467.6 KB · Views: 0
The i

The internals are really bad.

I expected better. Is it common for all lock makers to be this rough on the inside? I heard good things about L-R
This might open a can of worms but in my opinion L&R flintlocks these days are not very good at all. The locks that I bought from them in the 1980’s are better the what they produce today. I have purchased 3 from them this year and they were very low quality compared to a chambers lock. All 3 I purchased from them this year needed reworked,polished and hardened. I don’t believe I will ever buy another. Personally I would try to straighten the lock plate to within .005.
Just me humble opinion
 
On Chambers and Kibler locks I sand and polish the outside to remove the gray casting surface. I finish the outside surfaces with a fine wire wheel. Original locks didn't have that pitted gray surface from modern casting.
Chambers locks need some polishing on the moving parts that touch or slide. I polish all of the parts with buffing wheels. I'm careful not to remove any metal or create any gaps, just make everything as smooth as possible to make the lock fast, then grease the parts that touch.
My Kibler didn't need any polishing on the inside.
Your L&R lock appears to be unfinished inside and out. That's fine and you will have a good lock if you finish and tune it up. I would carefully remove all burs and polish it. Grease all the moving parts that touch.
Chambers Colonial Virginia lock:
PXL_20210830_215121820.jpg

PXL_20220122_231527580.jpg

PXL_20220311_001005016.jpg

PXL_20220422_204854318.jpg
 
On Chambers and Kibler locks I sand and polish the outside to remove the gray casting surface. I finish the outside surfaces with a fine wire wheel. Original locks didn't have that pitted gray surface from modern casting.
Chambers locks need some polishing on the moving parts that touch or slide. I polish all of the parts with buffing wheels. I'm careful not to remove any metal or create any gaps, just make everything as smooth as possible to make the lock fast, then grease the parts that touch.
My Kibler didn't need any polishing on the inside.
Your L&R lock appears to be unfinished inside and out. That's fine and you will have a good lock if you finish and tune it up. I would carefully remove all burs and polish it. Grease all the moving parts that touch.
Chambers Colonial Virginia lock:
View attachment 177289
View attachment 177288
View attachment 177287
View attachment 177285
Now that’s a well finished lock. I, too, am not a fan of locks left as cast. Doesn’t look period and looks kind of lazy.
 
Back
Top