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Barrel Rust

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Just looking for some kind of census...After cleaning and not necessarily for long term storage are many/any/some of the members here using CLP? I keep reading about 'do not mix modern cleaning stuff with BP...black tar' but then I also read that CLP or WD40- RUST version works well. Just dry patch the barrel before loading...I know a lot of people happy with Bore Butter or Rem oil...just curious
 
If I clean my gun and expect to shoot it again relatively soon I use WD-40. I have never had any issues with rust - and I'm an old mother hen about keeping my bores rust free. I also keep my guns in the safe with the dehumidifier as well - so that may affect the results.
 
There is nothing wrong with using oils or other modern cleaning stuff to store your guns, just wipe them out before you shoot them. I use Rem oil for rust protection after cleaning and I've never had a problem. It doesn't stay wet but leaves a dry coating that I wipe out with an alcohol dampened patch before shooting. I've never shot it without wiping the bore but maybe I'll try it sometime.
 
Just looking for some kind of census...After cleaning and not necessarily for long term storage are many/any/some of the members here using CLP? I keep reading about 'do not mix modern cleaning stuff with BP...black tar' but then I also read that CLP or WD40- RUST version works well. Just dry patch the barrel before loading...I know a lot of people happy with Bore Butter or Rem oil...just curious
Members here are using modern petroleum based Cleaner Lubricant Protector oils. There are also many on the Forum that only use animal or vegetable-based oils for lubricants and rust protection and water for cleaning. What I have seen is too much oil, whether animal based, vegetable-based or petroleum based, will develop that nasty black tar and difficult to remove crust rings. Keeping the patch damp will help, but not eliminate, a crust ring. Using a damp patch with a procedure to keep the flash channel clean will take care of the black tar development. Most of the black tar is powder fouling and humidity drawn from the air or very wet patches. We do have to be aware of what is happening in our barrels. As @SmokepoleSam observes, we have to keep the oils and cleaning stuff under control. This means removing the oils before going to the range. This means storing the gun with the muzzle down to allow the oils to drain away from the breech. This means clearing the flash channel to prevent the buildup of fouling. The most important thing to remember is that if your procedure works for you, then what you are doing is correct even if it is different from what others are doing.
 
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I keep reading about 'do not mix modern cleaning stuff with BP...black tar' but then I also read
The "black tar" gue/crust only happens when modern oils are present when the gun is shot.
I use a few different oils for protection and storage,, but I'm always careful to remove them before the gun is shot.
The problem area is always the breech and fire channel, it's easy for oils to accumulate there in the small area and turns of some of the breech styles like the T/C's and Spanish made drum breech.
I use dry patching followed with an alcohol slosh and wipe. A little extra care goes a long way to reliable ignition.

p.s. I was writing my post as @Grenadier1758 made his,, he said it all very well, đź‘Ť
 
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