• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Pedersoli Scout .32 cal Accuracy Help

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A photo would be good. A close up of several balls.
I would think you would notice on loading if they were all shapes, no?
It is good that the patches are in good condition. Did you say there are no holes or tares in the shot patches?
Did you check the bedding under breech?
Here is a pic of the patches from the last time I was out, except for some fraying on the edges they look good. I also put a few of the balls in there to show what they look like. I laid the one second from the right in its side to show how flat it looks. It has the same mark as the ball in the top left of the picture.
 

Attachments

  • D985D6FE-4537-41AF-B4BA-5EDD577DA4B9.jpeg
    D985D6FE-4537-41AF-B4BA-5EDD577DA4B9.jpeg
    2.7 MB · Views: 0
Them balls look bad. Put the imperfections forward most during loaded.
Yeah the patches look good but zoom in on a couple and I think I'm seeing a hole or tare.
Are you still having to use a starter?
 
Do you know of 4f blowing a barrel apart?
I would love to read about that.
No, I don't know that 4f has blown a barrel apart. That's why I suggested that @Leadriver use his 4f real black powder in his 32 caliber rifle. I've also read your posts on the use of 4f and think if Leadriver was using Pyrodex as part of his main charge, then that is a contributing factor to the poor accuracy results he is seeing.
 
Them balls look bad. Put the imperfections forward most during loaded.
Yeah the patches look good but zoom in on a couple and I think I'm seeing a hole or tare.
Are you still having to use a starter?
Yea but, I machined down both ends so I have no issue with the patch getting in the way. I only use the short part to start the ball and cut the patch off at the muzzle. The I just use my ramrod to push the ball down. It’s def a snug fit. No patches have any holes or tearing, just frayed at the edges is all.
 
Last edited:
No, I don't know that 4f has blown a barrel apart. That's why I suggested that @Leadriver use his 4f real black powder in his 32 caliber rifle. I've also read your posts on the use of 4f and think if Leadriver was using Pyrodex as part of his main charge, then that is a contributing factor to the poor accuracy results he is seeing.
No pryodex only black powder so far in this cap lock .
 
Might put an order in for schutzen 3F black powder. I have 2 buddies that want some aswell. I have read the schutezen powder is finer than the correlating goex designation. Such as 2F schutzen is finer than goex 2F. I have no experience with schutzen powder so anyone that personally has experience with both a response would be appreciated.
 
Do you think thoes balls could be contributing to the erratic accuracy?
YES!
I have a Pedersoli Frontier in .36 that shoots good clean .350 round balls just fine, but, when I tried some .350 Hornady buck shot that had belts and deformities similar to the balls in your picture I always got wider groups with fliers.
 
YES!
I have a Pedersoli Frontier in .36 that shoots good clean .350 round balls just fine, but, when I tried some .350 Hornady buck shot that had belts and deformities similar to the balls in your picture I always got wider groups with fliers.
That’s why I’m trying to find a .311 round ball mold to cast my own. I figured atleast some of the issue was the balls.
 
Well I think I’m throwing in the towel. I got my Schutzen 3F powder to try. Plus I got a Lee .311 mold. Made all new round balls. Sorted to .2 tenths of a grain and put a mic on them, all measured .311. I tried from 15-45 grains in 5 grain increments. Made new patch strips soaked and excess lube removed so they all had the same amount of lube. I checked the sights to triple check they were tight, checked all the screws, crown, barrel for movement. I also made sure I was consistently seating each ball with the same amount of pressure. Used sand bags for rest and was very solid. Results are impacts have no consistency whatsoever. After my range trip impacts coverd an 8x11 piece of paper at 50yds. At 35gr I had 2 overlap in the bulleye however the 2 shots right after went 3.5” right and 2” and 3.5 high. Patches looked perfect and patch/ball combo is a beautiful snug fit in the barrel. I also checked for any tight spots in the barrel, which there was none. I’m frustrated, discouraged, disappointed and at my wits end.
 
I'm battling a 45 cal with the same issues. I'm to the point of considering barrel heat issues and poor sight picture. At the range i'm currently shooting at as the day progresses, I've noticed I am losing a good sight picture on the target.
 
I cast my RBs for my .32 calibre. This is a very finicky calibre to get dialed in. I use a Lee double cavity mould and the RBs are .311 calibre.

My loads for my .32 is:
.311 calibre RB, 32 grains fffg, blue pillow ticking, moose milk lube. 1/2” groups dead on 50 yrds
.32 calibre maxi-ball, 45 grains fffg, beeswax/lambs tallow lube. 1” groups, 1 1/2” low at 50 yrds

There’s a lot of simple, mundane, things that can affect the accuracy of the .32 calibre. I’ve found that not being consistent in your loading procedure can cause changes in accuracy…for example lightly seating the ball on one shot, then really applying pressure on the next can move the impact point by as much as 2 1/2“ to 3” at 35 yrds.

The .32 is a very finicky calibre…Once you get this gun shooting well, and you do it time after time, over and over, you’ll be a hell of a muzzleloader.
I totally agree with that comment. The guys that slam their ram rod on the ball 3 or 4 times to seat the ball will always have a wide group. One from deforming the ball to inconsistent powder pressure.
.just seat the ball lightly making sure it is seated with no air pockets. Be consistent in seating the ball and accuracy will improve greatly.
 
A .010" patch is just too thin. Also they are probably tearing the holes when started into the muzzle. Get some emery cloth and use it with you thumb/finger to break up and smooth the sharp crown. Are you using a short starter? The prb should be snug enough to where you need to use one. Buy pillow ticking and cut your own patches; they should measure about .014" to .015" thick. Try Hoppes BP Lube as it should make seating the prb much easier. For the woods it's hard to beat TOW mink oil. Good luck.
Messing with the crown using emery cloth and your finger is a surefire way to ruin the crown. The only proper way to fix a crown is using a lathe and indicated off the bore.
 
Really didn’t want to use anything waxy, makes for long clean up for me. I tried veggi oil and no luck. Also wonderlube with no luck there either. I have Thompson center stuff like bore butter but I don’t like that stuff except for wiping my barrels on the outside and My stock. I was pondering using Crisco cause I used a wad. Never used that stuff but have a whole can here at the house.
There are plenty of good commercial lubes out there better than Crisco, but you will probably not go wrong using Crisco. Stay away from any lube with water like moose milk, Ballistol or very thin lubes. The .32 has a very small powder charge and lube infiltrating the powder charge ruins a larger percentage of the charge than in larger caliber. Also with .310 balls you likely need 0.015" patch material. Wonderlube is a great lube. I use Pryodex P grade and my best accuracy is between 25 and 32 grain equivalents.(volume measure).
 
Back
Top