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Pacecars

32 Cal
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I am either going to buy a .36 or .40 caliber Jim Kibler SMR kit. What accoutrements will I need? I know I will need 4F to prime the pan and I have plenty of 2F and 3F BP. Is it better to buy precut and pre lubed patches or cut them at the muzzle?
 
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I'd prime with your main charge.

I have a 4F priming container but I don't always use it. A good lock will be almost as quick with 2F or 3F.

Patches do as you please, I use precut dry patches and lube them with olive or Peanut oil but thats just me.

You'll want a vent pick of some kind, a screw driver for changing flints, spare flints, cleaning patches. I carry a cleaning jag in my pouch to clean in the field. Some guys take a little knapping hammer, I personally have a leatherman type thing in my pouch for miscellaneous things. I use my screw driver and tap it with the leatherman to knap flints. A short start for a rifle, I don't need one for my smoothbores. I whittled a powder measure out of redgum and have it attached via jute. I'll carve a nice antler one with leather strap at some stage.

Also take my horn.

This is a hunting set-up, no woods walks or competition etc. For me.
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I semi stole an idea of Mike Beliveau's for attaching the measure to my bag. Sits nice and snug, I just unloop the steel hanger and get enough length to manoeuvre it around for loading. Then hook it back up and keep hunting.
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I do not recommend the prelubed patches. The lubrication will cause the patches to deteriorate over time and there is no certain way to know how long the prelubed patches have been on the shelf. I prefer to purchase material at a fabrics store. I use the 100% cotton #40 drill cloth in the utility cloth section of JoAnn's Fabrics. I cut then patches at the muzzle, but you can precut the patches and that is fine too. You may find other materials work better, such as the pillow or mattress ticking, denim or canvas.
 
Probably a stupid question but does it matter if you mix brands of powder, not in the rifle but like using Swiss for the main charge and Goex in the priming pan?
 
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Not as long as the powders being used are real black powder. Finer grades of powder may be slightly faster to ignite, but it takes sophisticated measuring equipment to verify that.
 
What accoutrements will I need? Is it better to buy precut and pre lubed patches or cut them at the muzzle?
We cut our own and use Thompson Center 1000+ No. 13 cleaner to moistened patched.
Buffalo Arm Co has all the fixins.
We clean each shot with the next shot. We have done over 75 shots on a trail walk, no problem.
The other 50 were two guys that used oil in their barrels and could not get past the 5th target.

Two Feathers has a pan primer, jump on that. A pre measured amount every time. Ive been using mine for decades.
 
It has been a while since I have used a muzzleloader. I have been shooting Shiloh Sharps rifles for many years and use only real BP in those. I have lots of 1F and 3F. I will try the 3F in the pan to see how that works
 
I am a relatively new flintlock shooter. Perhaps 1000 rounds fired so far. I started off with pre-cut, pre-lubed patches. I then tried cutting a the muzzle. Accuracy was better, but I also weighed all my bullets and discarded any outside +/- .5 grains of average.

Walter Cline in Muzzleloading Rifles Then and Now says cutting at the muzzle was superior to pre-cut patches, as you could never be certain the ball was exactly centered on a pre-cut patch.
 
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