• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

How do I prevent carbon ring under nipple?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is a normal occurrence. Each gun discharge will form some carbon deposits at the base of the flash channel. Normally most of it is blown away by the next discharge and only a small amount remains. I would not worry about it UNLESS it impedes ignition then I would do as others have said and try different types of nipples and also a hotter percussion cap - good luck :ThankYou:
 
Actually, seriously, I was referring to blowing down (not up, lol) the barrel after each shot in hope that the carbon ring would not form.
Does anyone think this will work?
I have multiple caplocks and every one of them has crud around the base of the nipple where it enters the drum after shooting. The drum face has its own share of crud too. I was surprised at the question as I just thought it was expected as normal. No worries Mate .
 
I have multiple caplocks and every one of them has crud around the base of the nipple where it enters the drum after shooting. The drum face has its own share of crud too. I was surprised at the question as I just thought it was expected as normal. No worries Mate .
Huh, with bullets and heavy charges I do see carbon buildup. The smaller the bore the worse it gets. My .40’s will just quit after 4 shots if I don’t swab after every shot. 45’s aren’t far behind. IdahoLewis once recommended using a patch wet with Heet automotive fuel dryer, and I use it religiously now, it flushes fouling away, dries quickly, especially in a warmed up bore, dry patches follow and then pop a cap on the empty barrel and load as normal. Most of the carbon comes out when you pop that cap. Works well in every breech I have tried, from TC’s to Enfields, to Gibbs.
 
Try a nipple with a cone in the base, these not only remain clean but there is less pressure on the threads
I have a few like that but, if memory serves me, they’re all the hot shot or Uncle Mikes variety and the orifice starts at .030” or so. Fine or substitutes and or round ball, but too large for blackpowder and bullets.

I’m finishing a 54 caliber round ball barrel for a White Mountain carbine stock. The barrel is a 34” 15/16” Sharon (a carbine no more!) and I’m hopeful I can get excellent accuracy and power from less than 80 grains of 777. Such a nipple would be perfect for that barrel.

83C95FF8-6C36-4BE8-80A0-85DB39B94560.jpeg


I’ve got three barrels fitted to this stock now. A fast twist 45, a fast twist 40 and this slow twist 54…
 
Last edited:
I have used this procedure to clear the built-up fouling at the breech of a percussion locked rifle. I use a wet patch the I push to the breech. I fire a cap that blows the fouling out to be captured by the wet patch and pulled from the barrel. A wipe with a dry patch and all is clear.
 
I have used this procedure to clear the built-up fouling at the breech of a percussion locked rifle. I use a wet patch the I push to the breech. I fire a cap that blows the fouling out to be captured by the wet patch and pulled from the barrel. A wipe with a dry patch and all is clear.
Mr. Grenadier, may I ask what liquid you use to make your wet patch?
 
It really doesn't matter much what you use for a wet patch. Just about everything from spit to MAP to Dawn (or whatever brand of) Dish soap and water, rubbing alcohol, Windex or any of the approximately 15,000 different mixes we use for cleaning a muzzle loader. Not only is the fouling that remains softened and burning embers put out, but the bore is cleaned.
 
I used to just put a couple patches in my mouth while I loaded the rifle. After firing I’d use both spit patches and then a couple of dry patches followed by popping a cap. The Heet just dries faster in cooler temperatures.
 
Back
Top