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Uberti short arbor question

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Howdy, Looking at the Uberti Walker that Taylor has on their sight. But have been reading about Uberti and short arbor issues.

Is this on all Uberti pistols or just certain models ?

Thanks
Bill
 
I don't understand why they build them like that. It's not like they couldn't make it correctly. That was quite a nice revolver once we got it fitted up properly.
 
This is the reply I received from my email to Taylor about short arbor issues with Uberti Walkers.

Good morning,

I was just talking this over with my service department this morning. We have not had any issues with the arbors being short in the Walkers that we have seen. I was not aware of this issue until this morning, and I have been here a while. I am not saying that this hasn't happened, but it is not something that we have run into here. Please let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks,


Brad Turner
Taylor's & Co Firearms
304 Lenoir Dr Winchester, VA 22603
www.taylorsfirearms.com
 
If it is a good deal don’t let the short arbor stop you from buying it,,It is an easy fix,A search on this site will give you multiple easy fixes to chose from,
 
Last new Uberti Walker I helped someone with was thought to be jammed because of a short arbor. Turned out it was locked up because of some major burrs on the internals. Required some stone work and polishing. And the arbor was over .200” short, or at least took that much of a shim to hide that fact. Typical of many recent Uberti offerings.
 
If it is a good deal don’t let the short arbor stop you from buying it,,It is an easy fix,A search on this site will give you multiple easy fixes to chose from,
True, from what I have read here, its seems to be an easy fix. I guess I am just hesitant in spending money on something that I will need to fix for it to be right. I'm just hard headed 🥴
 
Depth mics are the key here. First deburr everything so the arbor will go all the way into the hole without binding, then use your depth mic to compare the end of the arbor to the frame, and the depth of the hole in the barrel. Then turn an insert that size. I put it in with a little sticky grease so it can be removed if required. This works better than just putting the barrel on sideways and measuring the difference, that will sometimes fool you if the arbor has some burrs.
 
Depth mics are the key here. First deburr everything so the arbor will go all the way into the hole without binding, then use your depth mic to compare the end of the arbor to the frame, and the depth of the hole in the barrel. Then turn an insert that size. I put it in with a little sticky grease so it can be removed if required. This works better than just putting the barrel on sideways and measuring the difference, that will sometimes fool you if the arbor has some burrs.
A depth Mic will work if the arbor well is measured at the outer orbit of the bottom as some wells are drilled then reamed often leaving the center deeper than the perimeter of the well bottom.
 
Come on guys!!! You need a protractor, a divider, slide rule, machinest's ruler, a micrometer and a feeler gage with .0015", .002", .0025" and .003" leaves.

Throw all of them in a drawer except for the feeler gage.
- Cut the head of a #14 stainless steel Pan Head sheet metal screw. There, that's all the "spacer" you need.
- Drop it round side down into the arbor hole. The "round" part of the head will self level in the drill point of the hole. Install the arbor and check for contact at the barrel lug/ frame. There will be space there so sand the flat side of the spacer to reduce thickness and check again.

-When contact is made, start driving the wedge in ( as soon as you can) while you check the endshake. Keep reducing the spacer until you get to the endshake you want. That's all there is to it and all the "measuring" you need to do. Very simple.

Tips-
To speed things up, I use a bench belt sander and a drill motor with a Philips head bit. I stop thinning the spacer when endshake gets to about. 004" and start reducing the end of the arbor for a more controlled "zeroing in" on my .0025" - .003" tolerance.
Doing it this way increases the total wedge slot slightly but I regain it with my set screw (adjustable wedge bearing) in the arbor for the wedge. Been doing it this way for 10 years!

Oh, for belt pistols ( Army's/ Navy's) use a #12 pan head screw.

Mike

Edit- Dang !!! Didn't think about that Hawkeye!!!
 
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Gee Mike, slide rules went out the window years ago. I expect we'll get a dozen posts asking what a slide rule is now. What we need is a computer program dedicated to calculating the spacer thickness and a 3D printer to create the spacer. :D
 
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