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Ramrod will not go back into place and is sticking out beyond front of barrel. Help!

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I believe the spring goes onto the screw. The screw has been taken out so the spring is loose inside banging around. Got to get the spring out and or put back on the screw.
 
The crack likely happened when the two piece stock was pulled apart before removing the barrel. The drum hits the stock if you are not real careful when pulling stock apart with the barrel still in place.
There is? I didn't even notice
 
There is? I didn't even notice
Here is the crack. Not ‘structural’ and an easy repair when you get to it.
1656282953071.png
 
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Oh wow! Didn't even notice. Ok.. perhaps a new thread?lol...how do I fix that?
Use a cyanoacrylate glue that will tend to wick into that crack. You MAY be able to open the crack up a bit to make it easier, but if not, don’t worry about it. Mask all the surfaces you do not want glue on or you will be looking at a stock refinishing. Clamp to close the crack up as the glue sets (an advantage to using an epoxy like Acraglas with its longer working time). If you can’t get a mechanical clamp on it, wrapping with electrical tape works great - it stretches and tends to clamp well. I would not recommend an expanding glue for a simple repair like this unless you are going to drill some holes, and I see no reason for that.
 
Gorilla Glue
That's all? No problem. I won't be shooting it again until weekend.
Thank you
Use a cyanoacrylate glue that will tend to wick into that crack. You MAY be able to open the crack up a bit to make it easier, but if not, don’t worry about it. Mask all the surfaces you do not want glue on or you will be looking at a stock refinishing. Clamp to close the crack up as the glue sets (an advantage to using an epoxy like Acraglas with its longer working time). If you can’t get a mechanical clamp on it, wrapping with electrical tape works great - it stretches and tends to clamp well. I would not recommend an expanding glue for a simple repair like this unless you are going to drill some holes, and I see no reason for that.
Thank you. That will be my next project.
 
I am not sure how to remove the barrel. At the range I did ask some who also shoots bp/ml and he said it looks like barrel won't come off because of small pins (will post pictures later) as far as custom work don't know. Bought it used.
You have to remove the tang bolt, then remove the pins and unscrew the nose cap (2 small screws). Then you can see. It's no big deal.

Look, that screw is in there. So a search for a parts breakdown of the gun. It loops thru the front lock bolt. Once you learn about it, you'll see. You don't have to do this every time
 
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I have oft considered a similar set of sights for the same rifle - I like what you have done - details please on what how where etc?
It came with it. I bought it used at a gun shop. At first I didn't like it because I thought it took away from the traditional look. However after shooting it I do like it.
 
I am not sure about CVA but does your rifle have a hooked breach? If so pull the barrel . On my Traditions the small metal ramrod spring is held in place by the front lock screw. I bet it’s loose in the channel!
 
Should be pinned on barrel im guessing its the ramrod retention spring. Pull the barrel remove front lock screw the tail end goes towards the back if gun insert the lick screw to hold soring in place reinstall the barrel
 
Please don't force the ramrod in! The retention spring is in backwards or is flipped upside down. Remove the barrel and flip the spring over. If this does not work see if you have the spring in backwards.
 
When you used the gun first time and then cleaned it, how did the ramrod come out of its location. Did it come smoothly or did you have to yank on it?
On my first ramrod/spring gun I found I had to bend the spring a little to make the ramrod an easy yet secure fit. I believe that the forwardmost screw passes through a hole (bend) in the spring to hold it in place. Removing the screw would allow the spring to fall from its location and could be very difficult to get it back correctly without removing the barrel.
The pins you mention, above, are what holds the barrel in place, besides the tang mounting screw which goes though the barrel tang and threads into the trigger assembly. The pins will have to be drifted out using a brass (or similar) punch/drift.
There should be a schematic available on the web somewhere to give you a better picture of what you are looking at.
 
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